Anyone run the traditional green antifreeze?
05-02-2004, 04:31 PM
#1
Anyone run the traditional green antifreeze? I hate Dex-Cool. It's always forms that granular sludge on my fill stick. I want to flush all of the cooling system and pour in the green stuff.
The only downside to the green stuff that I know of is it doesn't have the extended drain intervals in comparison to Dex-Cool.
The only downside to the green stuff that I know of is it doesn't have the extended drain intervals in comparison to Dex-Cool.
05-02-2004, 06:15 PM
#4
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So that's why it looks like gel.. thanks. I flushed it out a couple of months ago to get rid of this and now it looks like that again 
oh, and the green stuff has silicates which could potentially cause premature water pump bearing failure...so they (GM) says.
oh, and the green stuff has silicates which could potentially cause premature water pump bearing failure...so they (GM) says.
05-02-2004, 06:17 PM
#5
2xls1 is right, i see this time and time again at work, if it sludges up in the radiator it means you have an air leak somewhere in the system and you better take care of it quick so it all doesnt gel up. but it is designed to run with the aluminum parts better
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05-02-2004, 08:20 PM
#11
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i switched mine the first day i had the car, 2years later still no problems... GM does have tablets to add to it for the "right" way to do it...but i didnt use em
05-02-2004, 08:30 PM
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Originally Posted by 2xLS1
Dex Cool is more compatable with the aluminum block and heads. You only get the sludge in the overflow tank because the Dex Cool in there is exposed to air. I would stay with the Dex Cool and just clean out the overflow tank more often.
05-03-2004, 12:36 AM
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I changed mine over to the regular coolant the first winter I had it {2000 with 40K now}. I really don't get how the old green stuff is supposed to not work with aluminium. Yea,,, yea,,, I know. It's not that the green stuff is bad,,, it's just that the orange stuff is better. 
While I admit that I do not know nor am I privy to all the tests and studies that GM has seen on DexCool,,, I do know that folks have been useing the regular old green coolant for pretty much ever. For a good part of "ever",, someone was useing it in a engine with aluminium heads or heads and block. I've never seen a block or a set of heads that corroded from the inside out from useing green coolant. I do how ever know that there have been examples that did corrode.
I do know that I didn't like all the orange gunk on the coolant level stick {with less than 10K miles at the time}, once I changed to green coolant,,,, no more gunk.
While I admit that I do not know nor am I privy to all the tests and studies that GM has seen on DexCool,,, I do know that folks have been useing the regular old green coolant for pretty much ever. For a good part of "ever",, someone was useing it in a engine with aluminium heads or heads and block. I've never seen a block or a set of heads that corroded from the inside out from useing green coolant. I do how ever know that there have been examples that did corrode.
I do know that I didn't like all the orange gunk on the coolant level stick {with less than 10K miles at the time}, once I changed to green coolant,,,, no more gunk.
05-03-2004, 02:19 AM
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oh, and the green stuff has silicates which could potentially cause premature water pump bearing failure...so they (GM) says.[/QUOTE]
True, and it also ruins all the hoses from the inside out. I used the green for years and was always changing water pumps and hoses. Now these new cars with the orange I don't even think about hoses and pumps. But I do change it more than they say to.
True, and it also ruins all the hoses from the inside out. I used the green for years and was always changing water pumps and hoses. Now these new cars with the orange I don't even think about hoses and pumps. But I do change it more than they say to.
05-03-2004, 07:32 AM
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I too have a stroker (422 Darton Sleeved) and the Darton folks highly recommend using Evans coolant in these sleeved motors. (They make a special racing version especially for the Darton sleeves, which has thinner viscosity) I went with a bigger aluminum radiator, (Be-Cool) and the Evans racing coolant, along with the Evans LS1 Water pump & their newly designed thermostat. This may sound like over-kill, but for the amount of $$$ invested in the super stroker, I figured it was worth a few extra bucks to help circulate the coolant through the little holes in the sleeves, keeping them cooler.
Evans also helps prevent detonation, and it runs at almost zero pressure (less stress on hoses and all of the cooling system) as well as not boiling until something like 375*F.
If that wasn't enough to sell me, the fact that it cannot possibly corrode the aluminum in our LS1 engines, and especially not corrode the dissimilar metal in the cylinders with the iron sleeves or whatever alloy they make them out of. Darton is SOLD on the benefits of the Evans, and at one time was going to require all of their sleeved blocks run it. Now, for the time being I think they just strongly recommend it. You can do a google search and find their Web site to read more about the benefits of it, but if you want to talk to the guy in charge of R&D on the LS1 sleeved blocks and their special WP & Stats, PM me and I can provide you with a phone number and name. This stuff sounds too good to be true, but I have been using it in my full sized Blazer for 2 1/2 years now, with no problems and much better cooling in the HOT southwestern summer heat, and also have a Be-Cool radiator in the Blazer. Sounds like it might be super expensive? Well, it costs a little more than your nasty, gooey Dex-cool @ 19 bucks per gallon if you buy 3 or more gallons, but considering how much money we have tied up in our motors, that's chump change. 
This is something that you should already be familiar with, being that you have a 427 stroker, somebody should have told you about it. The best time to install it is when your motor is new and dry, because to Evans coolant, water is considered a contaminent, and to use it in your car, you need to get rid of all other fluid, including water & other types of anti-freeze. It need to run pure 100% with no other fluids. (draining the block, rad, heater core, hoses) That was why I put it in while my motor was still dry and so was my new rad, just had to blow out the heat core, and I went to all new hoses, (Lingenfelter silicone ones) LOL More over-kill. . . but hey, I wanted the very best for this multi-multi-thousand dollar engine. Let me know if you would like to speak with Steve in R&D @ Evans.
Evans also helps prevent detonation, and it runs at almost zero pressure (less stress on hoses and all of the cooling system) as well as not boiling until something like 375*F.
If that wasn't enough to sell me, the fact that it cannot possibly corrode the aluminum in our LS1 engines, and especially not corrode the dissimilar metal in the cylinders with the iron sleeves or whatever alloy they make them out of. Darton is SOLD on the benefits of the Evans, and at one time was going to require all of their sleeved blocks run it. Now, for the time being I think they just strongly recommend it. You can do a google search and find their Web site to read more about the benefits of it, but if you want to talk to the guy in charge of R&D on the LS1 sleeved blocks and their special WP & Stats, PM me and I can provide you with a phone number and name. This stuff sounds too good to be true, but I have been using it in my full sized Blazer for 2 1/2 years now, with no problems and much better cooling in the HOT southwestern summer heat, and also have a Be-Cool radiator in the Blazer. Sounds like it might be super expensive? Well, it costs a little more than your nasty, gooey Dex-cool @ 19 bucks per gallon if you buy 3 or more gallons, but considering how much money we have tied up in our motors, that's chump change. This is something that you should already be familiar with, being that you have a 427 stroker, somebody should have told you about it. The best time to install it is when your motor is new and dry, because to Evans coolant, water is considered a contaminent, and to use it in your car, you need to get rid of all other fluid, including water & other types of anti-freeze. It need to run pure 100% with no other fluids. (draining the block, rad, heater core, hoses) That was why I put it in while my motor was still dry and so was my new rad, just had to blow out the heat core, and I went to all new hoses, (Lingenfelter silicone ones)
LOL More over-kill. . . but hey, I wanted the very best for this multi-multi-thousand dollar engine. Let me know if you would like to speak with Steve in R&D @ Evans. 
05-03-2004, 07:53 AM
#19
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
ChevyGoldfinger, Darton recommends the Evans b/c your block is now a wet sleeve setup. This coolant is needed to prevent cavitation, etc. Mine is a dry re-sleeved block. However, I will run Evans in the future.
One other thing about it, you never have to worry about "flushing" and all of that malarky again.
This stuff has been known to go over a half million miles in 18 wheeler over the road trucks and when drained, looks like the day is was put in. As long as there is no failure of a hose or WP, to lose the coolant some how, then it is basically good for the life of engine. Good luck with your 427!!
John
05-03-2004, 08:08 AM
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Originally Posted by 11 Bravo
ChevyGoldfinger, did you order the coolant and pump directly from Evans?
John