I have a question about my build and how to swap ls6 intake to fast 92/92
#1
I have a question about my build and how to swap ls6 intake to fast 92/92
Hello everyone, this is my first post. I hope I can get some great feedback from yall. I'm looking into doing a H/C/I swap on my M6 SS my car is bone stock. I have the 35th anniversary with the SLP LM1 catback exhaust package w/ CME's. The 345 hp package... From what I'm told.
I just got in my fast 92/NW92
I have TSP Y pipe and pacesetter headers I'm going to order the 228r cam, ARP headbolts and buy a set of used 243/799 heads, and fast 98 air lid. I want the intake ported as well as the heads.
So with that being said My biggest question that I can't find on the other threads. And yes I have looked and looked...All I can find is LS1 to fast 92/92. But what all do I need if I already have the LS6 stock intake?
I don't really know what I'm doing I want to do my headers, and intake myself. How much of a pain is it for the headers? How hard is it to swap heads out with my stock 241heads?
So my main question... What other parts do I need to do a complete swap for everything? And around what power would I be looking at?
I just got in my fast 92/NW92
I have TSP Y pipe and pacesetter headers I'm going to order the 228r cam, ARP headbolts and buy a set of used 243/799 heads, and fast 98 air lid. I want the intake ported as well as the heads.
So with that being said My biggest question that I can't find on the other threads. And yes I have looked and looked...All I can find is LS1 to fast 92/92. But what all do I need if I already have the LS6 stock intake?
I don't really know what I'm doing I want to do my headers, and intake myself. How much of a pain is it for the headers? How hard is it to swap heads out with my stock 241heads?
So my main question... What other parts do I need to do a complete swap for everything? And around what power would I be looking at?
Last edited by Red02ss35th; 12-03-2014 at 09:02 PM. Reason: Adding more to the post
#3
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (14)
I think youre asking what else you need to install the last intake if you already have the ls6? If so all you really need are button head valley cover bolts and with your plans in mind i would also get a set of injectors.
you'll also need a new oil pump, timing chain and appropriate gaskets for the cam swap
you'll also need a new oil pump, timing chain and appropriate gaskets for the cam swap
#4
TECH Enthusiast
Intake swap on your car will be really straight forward, but.. and I might get flamed for saying this. I think you should probably stick with that LS6 intake and get the absolute best heads you can get with the extra money. I'm also thinking LT's will be pretty easy to do with the heads off, I don't know for sure, but maybe ask around and do a search.
#5
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Id wait on the FAST at the moment since you have an LS6 already. You can always swap that out later. If you purchase 243/799s send them off for CNC, either to TEA, WCCH, or AI. That plus the 228 cam should be a real strong runner.
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#9
10 Second Club
a ported fast makes a big difference on a heads\cam engine over an ls6.
what you need? your stock fuel rails will work, but you'll need a 92 MM TB. you'll need to bend your coolant crossover tube down just a touch. if you're buying a used FAST, make sure it comes with the low profile lifter valley cover bolts for clearance.
i was able to stretch my CAI boot over the 92mm TB. it just fit. that's about it. a 92 swaps on pretty easy.
what you need? your stock fuel rails will work, but you'll need a 92 MM TB. you'll need to bend your coolant crossover tube down just a touch. if you're buying a used FAST, make sure it comes with the low profile lifter valley cover bolts for clearance.
i was able to stretch my CAI boot over the 92mm TB. it just fit. that's about it. a 92 swaps on pretty easy.
#11
10 Second Club
i'm just running it on a stock internal engine, never dyno'd it.
have seen dyno's comparing a stock ls6 intake on a good heads cam setup, and a fast made 20 more rwhp.
have seen dyno's comparing a stock ls6 intake on a good heads cam setup, and a fast made 20 more rwhp.
#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (26)
Selling the Fast and sticking with the LS6 is a bad idea imo. The Fast will be a significant upgrade over the LS6 on a h/c/i setup. Imo CNC 243's from AI,TEA,WCCH will make as much if not more power then aftermarket heads(TFS220, PRC 225, RHS 223)...this until you spend some good coin on a set of mamofied or frankenstien aftermarket casting.
#13
I knew you had a pretty strong bolt on set up and was just curious if it made any significant difference for your car.
#14
10 Second Club
i did several upgrades in one shot last winter with the fast being one of them. the car is significantly quicker but i can't attribute it to just one thing. i went with a ported 92 and 1-7\8 headers hoping to gain some power OVER the curve, and it did. i can hold my gears another 2-300 rpm.
#16
TECH Resident
The intake manifold alone is easy to swap. I do like the Fast intakes, I got an early one a long long time ago, and its still going. Its only a 78mm as that was all there was at the time. I did notice more power just changing this, but then that could have just been in my mind, as you know what its like when you get a new part. I popped in some low profile valley cover screws so the bottom of the fast intake didn't fowl on them. I popped in fast fuel rails too as they look the part.
Next I changed was the Lt headers, I done this on my drive way, jacked up the front of the car about 2ft, the rear of the car was almost touching the ground. I fitted Dynatech Dynamxx headers with off road y-pipe, the passenger side was a tad difficult to get in, but it went after trying a few angles. Disconnect the battery, as I've hear a few people loosing the end of the dip-stick/tube when they take it out as it touches the starter motor. The LT's did sound nice expecially with the Corsa rear end system. Also without cats a little raspy at 2k rpm, but fine with cats in.
Next mod I done was Heads and cam. I actually put my LS1 intake back on for a few days while I took the new heads and my Fast intake into work, and I port matched the intake with the heads with a dremel. Also polished the intake inside, it was very smooth. Don't know if this improves flow but it felt good and knowing that the inlet port on the heads was perfectly matched with the fast intake.
When fitting the heads and cam, went for heads with dual valve springs, and the pushrods came with the kit, these were slightly different than stock, but I believe that is normal with after market cam. Well worth changing the oil pump and timing chain while you are in there. Also have a magnetic tool to hand, as when you take the 10mm bolt off the bottom of the oil pump what connected to the inlet filter in the sump, it a bugger to get it back onto the new pump it will require a few attempts, thats even with lowering the sump cover as low as possible as it hits on the solid car under the sump. Just be patient you will get there.
Good luck with the work. I found LS1tech very useful for info.
Next I changed was the Lt headers, I done this on my drive way, jacked up the front of the car about 2ft, the rear of the car was almost touching the ground. I fitted Dynatech Dynamxx headers with off road y-pipe, the passenger side was a tad difficult to get in, but it went after trying a few angles. Disconnect the battery, as I've hear a few people loosing the end of the dip-stick/tube when they take it out as it touches the starter motor. The LT's did sound nice expecially with the Corsa rear end system. Also without cats a little raspy at 2k rpm, but fine with cats in.
Next mod I done was Heads and cam. I actually put my LS1 intake back on for a few days while I took the new heads and my Fast intake into work, and I port matched the intake with the heads with a dremel. Also polished the intake inside, it was very smooth. Don't know if this improves flow but it felt good and knowing that the inlet port on the heads was perfectly matched with the fast intake.
When fitting the heads and cam, went for heads with dual valve springs, and the pushrods came with the kit, these were slightly different than stock, but I believe that is normal with after market cam. Well worth changing the oil pump and timing chain while you are in there. Also have a magnetic tool to hand, as when you take the 10mm bolt off the bottom of the oil pump what connected to the inlet filter in the sump, it a bugger to get it back onto the new pump it will require a few attempts, thats even with lowering the sump cover as low as possible as it hits on the solid car under the sump. Just be patient you will get there.
Good luck with the work. I found LS1tech very useful for info.