nathan_troy

Hello,

I am installing kooks headers.

I just changed the driver's side engine mount. Now the engine is too far aft and left. I can't get the driver's side header to line up at all, the engine mount is in the way (mount attached to engine). The mount attached to the frame is removed as well. Can I take all mount off and hook the header up? Will I have room to put the engine mount and body mount back on?

Also, any tips to bring this engine back in place would be great.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Check this out, he has some good tips

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...otsa-pics.html

nathan_troy

Sorry for late reply,

I am in the USAF and I had to leave for a month. I literally had to put my car back up on sliding jacks and put a jack to support the weight of the engine up. Long story short, this issue is waiting for me upon my return. I moved the car over so that my wife had room in the garage.

As for the thread above this one, it is good, but I am looking for more advice. Bottom line, my jack rolled back some how and now my engine is way off. I have no idea how the engine moved 5 to 8 inches back. I had to have happened when I he-manned the engine mount bolts off with a breaking bar. A couple questions:

1. Should I get the mount back in place before installing driver's side header? To be more specific, the engine is so far back, the header won't even go in place due to the mount being so far aft. I could move the engine forward, install header, then worry about the mount.

2. I only have the drivers mount out, should I just get an engine hoist, lift up the block and change the other, or should I finish this side. If I borrow an engine hoist, where do I strap it?

***I understand this is not rocket science, I just can't be wasting a lot of time on this project. When I am in the garage, I am taking time away from my girls. I only have time to work on this car when I am off during the week.

Any advice would be great, please refrain from these questions unless you have changed your engine mounts before.

Mike_hawk

Do you still have the transmission crossmember bolted in? The engine shouldn't be able to move back with it in place.

I have never changed headers on a 4th gen but this is what I would do if there was a lack of room.
1. Raise vehicle as high as possible to give the most options of sliding the headers up.
2. Use an engine hoist to raise the engine(you should be able to thread a bolt into the front of each head) keep the trans and its crossmember bolted in.
3. Remove at least the motor mounts, preferably mounts and the pedastals that attach to the frame then slide the headers up. It usually helps to remove the starter and sometimes the steering shaft too. If you can hang a wire coat hanger or a bungee cord down before you crawl under the car to hold the header up its easier to start two bolts from the top. Don't forget to zip-tie the header gasket to the headers so it stays in place.
4. After getting both headers hung using two bolts reinstall motor mounts/pedastals and the two large bolts that hold them together. (A long thin screwdriver can help line them up by inserting it where the bolt goes and prying it back and forth) With the headers having only two bolts loosely installed the collectors should be able to move side to side quite a bit if you need some room.

After reading that install guide link above all I can say is holy ****, 4th gens suck.

nathan_troy

Mike,

This is good advice, so thanks! Unless the trans mount bolts are broken, I did not touch them. I am not exaggerating either, the engine is at least 5 inches aft.

I was not having any issues until I got to the driver's side. I did the passenger side all by myself with no help. I did not touch the engine mount on that side yet, I wanted to figure this out first. I will use the engine hoist like you said.

Should I install the plugs before or after I put the headers in? I guess it won't matter if I am using a hoist.

I will be back in two weeks, I will then get right to it.

Thanks!!!!!

joecar

Install plugs after headers are bolted on to avoid damaging them.

Jsmolar

you could try denting the header

joecar

He shouldn't have to dent the header pipe...

but, in any case, it looks like he a problem with the motor mounts.

nathan_troy

All,

Thanks for the feedback. I am gonna go with the solid mounts. I will just sell the clam shells with the poly's installed. It will save someone some work and $$$.

When I get home, I am going to support the engine with a 2x4 and a jack. I am then going to loosen the other mount. I will leave the transmission mount installed. I am then hoping that I can wrestle the engine in place. I may even hook up an engine hoist as a back up for safety. After I install the solid mounts, I should have plenty of room for the header on the driver's side.

nathan_troy

Hello,

Well, I got the Spohn solid mounts in.

Here is my issue at hand:
I can't get the driver's side Kooks header to fit.

Should I:
Loosen the transmount and try to raise it?

I really don't want to risk loosing the engine mounts again.

Any ideas?

joecar

How are you putting it on...?

Are you rotating the rear of the header down, then pushing the whole header up, then unrotating it...?

nathan_troy

Yeah somewhat. What is the best way?

It is hitting my K member. I am gonna grind a bit off.

Thoughts?

joecar

Push it up higher before unrotating it (or go from the top).

nathan_troy

Well, they are in!

I sanded off some of the K member and removed the left engine mount...again!

What a long job, but well worth it.

Thanks for the tips