kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

It came with a good harness, but the block is rusted all over, and it has low compression on cylinders 1 and 3 (they are next to each other, so assuming its a bad head gasket the pistons might be good). The oil looked decent but I didn't bother to pull the pan yet.

Seller offered me a partial refund on the engine. I would be paying $227 for this engine. Question is, are the heads and internals worth it?

Heads are "852" or "862" casting number, motor is an 01











My other option is have ebay step in and force the seller to pick his engine up at no cost to myself.

KnockretardZ28

holy hell, was it submerged in salt water? Maybe a flood damage pull out?

I don't know that thing might be nothing but trouble down the road.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

It came from Massachusetts, apparently everything rusts there. If I pull the oil pan and valve cover and the insides look decent, would it be worth trying to use it for $227? I am thinking I had better look inside it since the seller is asking me for proof of his "numbers" anyways, I have to go back and see the engine again before making my decision. Every other cylinder had 150psi, and being the cylinders in question are 1 and 3 (not #7) are next to each other I am guessing headgasket.

KingJacobo

I wouldn't bother. 5.3L's are a dime a dozen, why mess with a rust bucket motor?

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

well they are not that easy to find near me, at least that I have seen. I tried craigslist and car-part.com, every 5.3 is either $1000+ or a seized parts only engine. Ebay failed me this time as well. So I am scrambling atm to find one.

found an escalade 5.3L, 2001 I think. it doesnt have 13mm exhaust bolts though (no gen4 internals I guess) but it looks very clean, no rust, and has 83k miles, I saw it today in the junk yard, crashed car, inspected it myself. He wants $900 for it? I might grab that. But damn, $900 ouch.

scj

iTrader: (89)

i see broken off or stripped off bolt heads in the tear down of this motor. $227 is cheap, but may not be worth the effort..

krowey

Damn that's terrible, looks like it was used for a anchor. If you can get away from that mess, you'll be way better off.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

let me see if i can get the pan off easily, then if thats lookin good ill take off the valve covers. if it looks nice inside and all clean oil I will pull a head and verify the head gasket was blown and the pistons look good. I figure if the inside is good and clean I can slap a headgasket on it and use it as a temp engine for $300~

You are right about the broken bolts also. I will attempt a drill and extraction on a couple after a soak (acetone and ATF joe once said) and if it looks like patience wins, well then patience was right I guess

Ebay is giving me until march 31st to accept or decline the partial refund, so I have plenty of time for a complete inspection. I will continue looking for another engine in the mean time, but my plan is to use the rusty engine first if possible, kinda like a test engine I guess. If I see a single thing amiss inside it though- its going right back.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Thats my thinking also.

AnotherWs6

iTrader: (17)

You bought a rusty motor!!! Wow!! Very nice. A complete rusty POS with at least two bad cylinders. Can't wait to see where this ends up.

https://ls1tech.com/forums/parts-wan...d-vehicle.html

Have you come across any fart smelling transmissions yet? Pay anybody to sniff one yet?

Ls1Ryan2002

Around here you can pick up a nice 5.3 for 600. They are everywhere, don't mess with this one.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I got one today with 83k for 600 and they are delivering it too. Its true I am tempted to send that one back, but at the same time for $200~ I can't resist at least taking a peek inside before sending it back. Remember it came with a good harness, And thats worth at least $50-$80 ( I just paid $85 for a harness out of a junkyard ).

So my next random question would be, gaskets sets: Can I buy a gasket set for a 5.7L LS1 engine and use the headgaskets etc... on the 5.3? Since I am using LS1 intake manifold it seems like a better idea, if the HG will fit.

JoeNova

I paid $950 for 4 5.3s last week.
1 complete with everything except harness/ECU but the cylinders are rusted.
1 long block, no manifolds or accessories. Fresh rotating assembly, but a cracked block.
1 long block complete with everything except harness/ECU, engine is good.
1 complete pullout, all accessories, wiring, ecu, etc.

They're so cheap, if you get one that's rusted don't even bother with it. I pulled every last little useable piece off of mine and scrapped the short block. If you can send it back, that's your best option.

Moyock13

Concur with JoeNova. Dime a dozen. We picked up a good LM7 off of cl for $185.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Alright, heard. Consider it done, gone.

thanks for the lessons, that's why I asked the experts. Your time is not wasted on me, I listen and recycle.

Ls1Ryan2002

I think it's the right decision to send it back, as cheap as it may be. All the rust would be a hassle in the long run.

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

The next engine I got it very clean, I cant wait to get some pics, however one thing is bothering me. It doesn't have the heat-sink style coilpacks. I wonder what that means? I was told it was because the engine is an 04. Is that true?

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Just an update

some good news and bad new. the good news is that the next engine has 13mm manifold bolts, is an 04 verified, green pcm plug, and looks very clean. The bad news is that when I tried to turn it over by hand, the rotating assembly hit something inside and it stops. I can turn it both directions until it stops on something. I didnt pull the pan yet (will do tomorrow) but it looks like when the truck was hit (accident vehicle) it bent something up on the inside somehow, I think related to the dipstick. The dipstick tube was completely crushed and bent, I couldnt even pull the dipstick out until I really really used a lot of force, and when it came out it was shaped like a U-shape, bent up strangely. So I suspect it is simply a bent dipstick tube or something nearby that got in the way, HOPEFULLY, because I really like the engine. I have some pics of it but I don't think anybody really cares at this point so I will just wait and hold off with the pics for my other thread.

Moyock13

Post the pictures. Did you take a close look at the block in the area of the dip stick or possible exterior damage?
When you turn the crank is it a hard stop? Or does it just get tight and bind up?

kingtal0n

iTrader: (1)

Its like a hard stop, clank, It feels like the bottom of a rod is smacking into a metal object, like the windage tray or something. Im not too worried because the motor has a warranty and the place I got it from has a bunch, I just really wanted to keep this one because it has the late model internals and low mileage. Will post pics shortly




dat 13mm exhaust bolt tho

I didn't realize about the dipstick when I took these pics, I was just snapping some quick pics of how I get the engine (I try to document each piece of the puzzle from beginning to end). Once I found out the motor might be bad (will find out tomorrow, I got permission to pull the pan, they will still exchange it if I work on it) I didn't bother with anymore pics since I might be trading it out for a next engine (again lol).

Dont worry, one of these days I will get the ball rolling! Just happy I always start with the basics And this is a GREAT/EXCELLENT Example thread of WHY we start by turning it over by hand, then a compression test, before doing anything else