JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Myth or Fact?

Only a thousand dollars budgeted to spend ... with the mods in my sig, where's the money best spent? Nitrous or LT's? I've heard Nitrous is good with my shorty headers and TR220/220 .553/.553 112 LSA cam setup.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

I opened this thread in the Nitrous Section and got a lot of replies from the Nitrous section guys who say 'GO' with juice ... not long tubes. I'd like to hear from some of you External guys. Do you agree that a Nitrous setup is better than Long Tubes with my car's setup?

Whcih is the best option for me for $1,000?

Honez

Dollar for dollar the "Juice" gives the most bang for the buck! Really hard to beat being on the bottle.

thxone

iTrader: (1)

Jeb99ta, I think you may want to think about where you want to go with your car. Long tubes are nice and will compliment your cam, but the nitrous will far and away give you more power. Do you want hugh, instant, and temporary power? I started with the N/A pursuit of power and found myself spending lots of money for very small gains. I finally purchased an NX kit and I wish I would have purchased nitrous first. I may not have tore into my engine.

Honez

Jeb99TA is right, My first major mod was adding the "juice" Now I'm ready to compliment it with Heads, Cam, LT, Stall, etc... When I get the car back next week I go straight to the Dyno Tunner and as you can imagine, I'm expecting some pretty significant gains on just the motor but the juice will still be nice to have and will get me into the low to mid 11's.

Another_User

Read my lips...direct port nitrous injection. Sweet.

PREDATOR-Z

Get both for that much money.
NOS 5177 (complete with FPSV, guage on bottle, wot switch etc....) $550
Pacesetters + ORY $450

And you have it all Nitrous (The safest complete kit on the market today) + LT's + ORY.

With wet, anything more than 100 you'll have to change fuel pump. Then all these extra gases have no where to go and are bottlenecked.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

About how long does it take to install a 5177 N2O kit? And what would be the degree of difficulty for the install? I'm pretty mechanically inclined and have done most of the work on my car ... any special tools needed?

PREDATOR-Z

Took me 4 hours. I have a FIPK and although mechanically inclined, I'm a bit slow in electrical. Switch in the ash tray and everything.

Strahley

iTrader: (4)

I would spend some of that money elsewhere

Sell the shorty headers, get some long tubes
Spend the rest on traction. All nitrous will do is give you a higher trap speed if you aren't hooking up. You don't need tons of power to go fast, I know of a couple guys with only about 25 RWHP more than you running 11s. I doubt you will do the same, even with spraying, with your drivetrain/suspension/chassis

According to your mods, you don't have a converter yet. Why not?! Go converter before nitrous

PREDATOR-Z

True, but that wasn't his question.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Well, a TC would only introduce more problems with traction. I can get a good dig right now and I did shorties and the specific TR custom grind to achieve max low-end torque, at the sacrifice of less power at the top. Now, I want to increase max RWHP/RWTQ torque from about 4500-6500 rpm.

Torque Converter won't help where I need it. I wanna' be able to hit WOT when I hit 3rd at about 65 mph and pull harder on the roll. This is why my options didn't include a TC. A lot of people have told me to first get a TC before gears and my cam, however, they were unaware of what my goals were. I only have a grand budgeted, but, a 3500 stall TC is in the picture for the next round, but, after I ditch the street tires for Nitto's or ET Streets.

jrp

iTrader: (16)

LT's. power isnt as much as a 100 shot but its always there. that 1k is an initial cost, then you have to keep refilling the bottle.

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

Converter is the SINGLE best mod you can do to an automatic LS1 car.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

JRP, WILWAXU, etc ... WOW!!!! I always hope to get replies from all the good or experienced people here, especially from you guys. Thanks for weighing in. I guess LT's would be cheaper and more reasonable for me because I can do the install myself and then I could use what money's left over to start saving for a converter.

Of course, then would come drag radials, and torque arm just to be able to accelerate and get anywhere, without spinning. I'm just scared of the converter because rearends are expensive and I still have my GM 10-bolt. With sticky tires, I think the T/C would be too much stress on the gear housing ... even if I were to launch easily. I have a MAC girdle, but, even this only provides minimal support.

What are your thoughts?

mrr23

iTrader: (3)

i'll. vote for the n2o over LT headers. i run a 200 shot on a stock ls1 + SLP airlid. 11.97 @ 118 oh and on stock fuel pump. just dyno'ed with the addition of a cutout. made 442/522. a/f ratio 11:1. on regular radials also (245/50-16 and 275/40-17). only suspension mods are hotchkis trailing arms and panhard rod.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

I think you can pull off headers a converter!!
Pacesetters are on special for 379.99 coated
129.99 for the y pipe
That leave about 500 for a 3500 tci stall converter!!
They sell for $515!!!

Thats what I would be doing if your wanting to stay n/a

Colonel

"Well, a TC would only introduce more problems with traction."

That's what your right foot is for. If you spin just lay off the WOT for the first few feet to get the weight transfered. The converter helps in more ways than just the first 10 ft you know. Example....My '04 Vette has the stock runflat tires (POS for hooking!) and independent suspension (also POS for hooking) but yet I pull 1.80 60 fts with my 3000 stall and am running 12.6s at instead of the mid 13s I was pulling stock. Is traction a challenge now? Yes. Is the car FAR faster despite that? Y-E-S!!!

"Torque Converter won't help where I need it. I wanna' be able to hit WOT when I hit 3rd at about 65 mph and pull harder on the roll."

Actually, a TQ converter does as much or more for you from a roll than it does from a start. You are never in the dreaded "dead spot" at the bottom of a gear with a high stalling converter.

You need to study up on converters. You're missing out. If I had to pick between a stock converter and nitrous or a good converter without nitrous, I'd take the higher stalling converter.

BTW, if you do headers, don't waste your money on shorties. Go LTs or stick with the stock manifolds, IMO.

Lt1BadBoy

iTrader: (1)

In answer to your question, NITROUS! I was always scared to use it but once i learned more about it and bought a kit Ive been spraying everyone of my cars since. Also about the install I got a NOS Dry kit and it only took about 2 hours the first install i did.

JEB99TA

iTrader: (32)

Man, the choices were LT's or NOS. Now, a torque converter has to be a part of the equation. Three of the top guys here with tons of experience and 2 0f 3 say T/C. If it had been a choice (at the time), I'm just about willing to go out on a limb and state that maybe JRP may have advised me to go with the T/C ... BUT, I won't speak for anyone here but myself. JRP? ... care to weigh in?

Now it has a lot to do with my 10-bolt and transmission. What will a T/C do to them? It's down to 1 of the 3. Of NOS, LT's, T/C ... what will be easiest on my rearend and transmission? I'm thinking the LT's may be my best all-around option???? As several have stated, I need to research the converter issues.

I should have listened to JRP when he advised me against shorty headers last November.