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Old 05-29-2005, 11:47 AM
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Default people who ported there own TB's

is this a really hard task?


I'm thinking since my car is down that I should port my TB, perform everylast one of the free mods...


ppl who did these Chime in..


pros/cons?
Old 05-29-2005, 12:05 PM
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only con i can think of is if you do not port it correctly, or when you keep jabbing the throttle cuz it feels stronger

pros are numerous. do some searches and you'll find everything you can possibly think of. needless to say its a good mod.
Old 05-29-2005, 12:19 PM
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I didnt do mine, but I had a close friend do it. Ported it and did the throttle body bypass...Its alot smoother now, and i can feel the difference down low. Im really glad I did it, and would do it to all of my cars. Def. reccomend it.
Old 05-29-2005, 12:47 PM
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Theres lots of posts on how to do it and its an all gain situation.If you are good with a dremel its pretty easy and you should get great results.
Old 05-29-2005, 03:48 PM
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It's not bad. I ported mine, didn't polish it so the inside doesn't have that mirror finish that others do (such as Bo White), but there was definitely a noticeable difference in throttle response. I say go for it.
Old 05-29-2005, 05:10 PM
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Did mine to...i did the epoxy part too. Definitely a worthwile mod. And it's really hard to screw up - jjust stay away from the part where the throttle plate closes, and you'll be fine!
Old 05-29-2005, 07:47 PM
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Default FYI for home throttle body porting

Take the TB and clean it real good with a rag and brake clean inside to get the carbon off. Take a Sharpie and trace around the TB blade were it is at rest and that will give you a guide line to port up to(but not past). Take a T-15 torque bit and take the blade screws out and open the blade up by swinging the throttle to the open position and slide the blade through the back. Take a T-20 and take the screws out of the TPS and IAC and remove them and be sure to keep up with the rubber o-ring on the IAC so to be able to put it back when you reassemble. Take a dead blow or brass hammer and knock the throttle shaft out, there is a metal o-ring pressed on the shaft to keep it in that will pop off when ya do this that I just throw away. The throttle return spring will unwind on ya when the shaft moves out so be prepared. Now the TB housing is bare and now you can port it by removing the lip that is right infront of the blade by using the Sharpie marker mark that you traced earlier as a guide. Do not port past that point or you will "over port" it and have idling issues. Blend the rest of the housing opening to that point and your done . Take the throttle shaft and cut the front half of the split out and then reassemble the TB without the return spring so that you can visually see what you are doing while doing the throttle stop mod to just under 90 degrees. Once you get it to were you have full throttle you can disassemble it so you can put the return spring back in. Get ya 2 #6 washers to put under the blade screws and use LocTite 262 on the threads and your done once ya get the sensors back on . This is for all you guys that have wanted pointers from me lol.
Old 05-29-2005, 10:01 PM
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I ported mine. Filled in the IAC area with aluminum vs. epoxy and re-drilled the ports perpendicular to the original position. If you look straight into the TB you can't see those ports.
Old 05-30-2005, 11:02 AM
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I only polished mine, was to afraid to cut loose with the dremel on the inside, Stripped everything down like Bo said, then used 200 grit and wet sanded the entire inside, then used 400, 600, 800, and 1500 grit to get the smooth finish. Found some billet polish at Schucks, and man it worked awesome, it polished up to a mirror finish. Also ground the coolent tubes off of the outside and did the same thing to, wet sanded and polished it. PITA, but it looks great. Then on the second day I did the MAF ends. removed the center part and polished them.
Old 05-30-2005, 11:18 AM
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Thanks Bo white!

I appreciate it man.. I will definetely do this mod over the course of the week/
Old 09-17-2005, 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Bo White
Take the TB and clean it real good with a rag and brake clean inside to get the carbon off. Take a Sharpie and trace around the TB blade were it is at rest and that will give you a guide line to port up to(but not past). Take a T-15 torque bit and take the blade screws out and open the blade up by swinging the throttle to the open position and slide the blade through the back. Take a T-20 and take the screws out of the TPS and IAC and remove them and be sure to keep up with the rubber o-ring on the IAC so to be able to put it back when you reassemble. Take a dead blow or brass hammer and knock the throttle shaft out, there is a metal o-ring pressed on the shaft to keep it in that will pop off when ya do this that I just throw away. The throttle return spring will unwind on ya when the shaft moves out so be prepared. Now the TB housing is bare and now you can port it by removing the lip that is right infront of the blade by using the Sharpie marker mark that you traced earlier as a guide. Do not port past that point or you will "over port" it and have idling issues. Blend the rest of the housing opening to that point and your done . Take the throttle shaft and cut the front half of the split out and then reassemble the TB without the return spring so that you can visually see what you are doing while doing the throttle stop mod to just under 90 degrees. Once you get it to were you have full throttle you can disassemble it so you can put the return spring back in. Get ya 2 #6 washers to put under the blade screws and use LocTite 262 on the threads and your done once ya get the sensors back on . This is for all you guys that have wanted pointers from me lol.
Awesome! Thanks!
Old 09-17-2005, 08:14 PM
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I ported mine like a year ago no problems,dyno showed gains of 6hp I dont know if it really help my times but it did respond better :O'rahh Devil Dog" 0311
Old 09-17-2005, 10:58 PM
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I also did mine. It takes some time to do. I've actually done it twice and will go at it a third time soon. I'm not totally satisfied with my own work its not perfect yet. I read a few write ups and the first time i removed alot of metal and did the epoxy. Then the second time i went and smothed it some more and then polished the inside. The next step in get the inside perfect and do the half shaft mod, and polishe it inside and out.
Old 09-18-2005, 12:44 AM
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If you do it yourself watch out for the TPS bolts, I stipped one, but did come out. All I did with mine, was used a dremel and grinded the the lip in front of the blade. I didn't go overboard. I polished the inside and out and made sure the blade was opening fully. I didn't do the epoxy, since most said the gain wasn't enough to make a difference.
Old 09-18-2005, 02:43 PM
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i just finished mine a few days ago and it turned out great!!! It's not difficult to do at all!!!
Old 09-18-2005, 02:46 PM
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I used Bo's instructions for porting by the way. They realy helped.
Old 09-18-2005, 02:51 PM
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whats the point of porting the front of the TB if u still have the bottleneck "bump" where the TB blade sits? someone needs to cut up some slightly bigger TB blades for a true ported tb.
Old 09-18-2005, 04:36 PM
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Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
whats the point of porting the front of the TB if u still have the bottleneck "bump" where the TB blade sits? someone needs to cut up some slightly bigger TB blades for a true ported tb.
Might as well just buy a new TB. Getting the diameter around the throttle blade to match a bigger blade with a dremel would be really hard to do! If you have CNC options go for it, but most people don't have access to one.

All your doing is porting it so everthing up until the blade is a smooth transition. Besides u can pick up 8 hp w/ a good port.
Old 09-18-2005, 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by JustAnIlluzion
whats the point of porting the front of the TB if u still have the bottleneck "bump" where the TB blade sits? someone needs to cut up some slightly bigger TB blades for a true ported tb.
That "bump" is just infront of were the blade is and when you scribe a mark around were the blade rests at Idle like I suggest the mark is behind the bump and so its in the porting area. The thing is the LS1 TB is not a true 75mm TB, the blade may be 75 but the housing itself is smaller because of this "bump" so thats the whole point of porting it, maiking it a true 75mm by removing it. You can chuck it up in a lathe and machine it out to 78mm but thats about as far as you can go because of the casting "swoop" around the outside bottom of the TB, you will cut through that if you try to cut anymore.
Old 09-18-2005, 06:51 PM
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ported polished loving it! I did it with a dremel in no time flat...just get a nice surface to do it on. It slipped off and hit me in the leg and boy did it smart!


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