FAST98LS1

i have a 98 ls1 430 rwhp,my ? is it still has the factory o2s,im going to replace them,what would be a good brand to put in
thanks for your help

WILWAXU

iTrader: (6)

GM replacements work.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

With headers, any brand O2 sensor is a crap shoot. FWIW, I've had GM O2s that lasted for about a year before they got too lazy, and it was the same with the Bosch 13111 sensors.

Right now, I don't even have O2 sensors, and don't plan on ever putting them back in.

davered00ss

iTrader: (4)

I've had good luck with Bosch

BackinBlack02SS

iTrader: (7)

I use the stock GM 02's, but I have heard the Denso 02's are also very good.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

I heard that too, but buying denso's was the biggest mistake ever. I went back to bosch 13111's with my long tubes.

Camaro99SS

iTrader: (4)

My stock sensors lasted about 6k miles after reusing them for the LT install. I now have Bosch 13111's with about 4k on them. So far so good, as in no codes thrown.

Jason

BackinBlack02SS

iTrader: (7)

Why do you say that?

blkbird

iTrader: (28)

:GuitsBoy: Im about to get some densos. What bad experience did you have?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Right out of the box, both denso sensors threw insufficient switching codes as well as slow response codes. I deleted the dtc's with hptuners and ran them anyway. Looking at my scanner, the o2 wave forms were best describes as lethargic. They simply take a long time to react and swing back and fourth which caused me all sorts of fueling issues once i put my cam in. Whats more, is that the bosch 13111s were always right at .900 at WOT and would have a fairly straight line in HPT scanner, but the densos would always fluctuate between 800 and 900. After about 8K running the denso's, i decided to put my old bosch 13111s back in and the car drove better immediately even though the bosches were old and throwing codes again. I recently replaced both sensors again and the codes went away. I expect to get about 10K to 20K miles out of a set of bosch sensors before throwing codes, which is a lot more tahn i can say for the densos that were fux0red right out of the box.

blkbird

iTrader: (28)

Well, I guess I will save me some trouble and get the Bosch 13111. Im tired of seeing my SES light on all the time.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Unless youre running leaded race fuel and need your o2s to stay alive, is stay away from the densos as they simply dont switch fast enough.

It seems with long tubes, atleast with my car, both the stock delco and the bosch sensors will eventually start throwing codes after 10k - 20k. However the bosch are considerably cheaper and they perform very well, even when they do throw codes (and you disable the DTC with a tuner).

After going through 14 oxygen sensors in the life of my car, id rate the bosch as the best buy because of the extended wire, the heater, and the switching activity all for a decent price. The stockers are good also, but theyre more expensive and require extentions. The densos, however, I rate as **** poor.

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

If the ses bothers you, simply tune it out, assuming its just an insufficient activity light. It really dosnt harm the drivability at all. Id leave the rest of the codes active. If you throw a heater code, the sensor will not be performing correctly. But yes, of all the options i continue to go back to the bosch 13111.

SgtB

iTrader: (3)

stock gm ones imho

SideStep

Denso are crap... I went though the same issues as Guitsboy

Blk02Ls1A4

iTrader: (3)

Same here, don't get denso.

jimmy 2 Times

iTrader: (18)

a bit off subject, but why do they go bad? And how to you tell if they have gone to crap?

GuitsBoy

iTrader: (4)

Thats a very good question, and Im not exactly sure what the answer is. My guess is simply that they age.

The symptoms you typically see with a long tube eader car is that the o2 sensors start to fluctuate (switch) less frequently. This usually trips the insufficient switching code and sets the SES light. Many things can cause the o2s to fluctuate slowly, such as too low exhaust temps, fouled and caked carbon deposits, lead and silicon poisining. Even if you eliminate all those possible issues, the sensors still tend to go bad with time and miles. You can pull the sensors out and clean them by hitting them with a propane torch for a few minutes to burn off all the carbon deposits, however usually after a few days the codes come back.

MeentSS02

iTrader: (11)

O2 sensors need heat to work...LT headers have a great deal more surface area, and the exhaust gases cool a good amount before it gets to the sensors. Although our sensors are heated, they can't work miracles...

SS1875

iTrader: (34)

4 o2 sims instead 2 ?? and deleted with the tune?? What rims are you running?? They are sweet!!