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True Duals, questions answered here. Post YOUR information and pics too!
#1265
Question, can you run 2- 3in pipes over the axle on passenger side without having to get a different panhard bar? Or would there be a major clearance issue with stock panhard bar with 2 3in pipes there?
#1267
On The Tree
Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: Northern Kentucky
Posts: 171
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It can be done. Read the thread and you'll find pictures. I did it on mine back in 05 or 06. I think a bunch of others have done it since then. I ditched the brace because it's worthless, but the panhard is stock.
#1268
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
I'm doing dual 3" now and with the BMR watts link that has the drop it was near impossible. We notched the pan bar mount and reinforced it gain more clearance. It sucks you can run an exhaust easier if you put an LS into a Nissan 240 than in these cars. Mine will be done in the next 5 to 7 days.
I've notice a lot of pictures with the aluminum cans, but this doesn't help judge clearance much since you don't know if it stock ride height or lowered. Toward the end I saw one that looked stock height and I think has less clearance than my lowered car with dual 3".
I've notice a lot of pictures with the aluminum cans, but this doesn't help judge clearance much since you don't know if it stock ride height or lowered. Toward the end I saw one that looked stock height and I think has less clearance than my lowered car with dual 3".
#1271
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
So far we have this with my dual 3" exhaust. It should be finished this weekend.
Driver side was to give torque arm room, but it will be changed and I'll get a rear adjustable if I can't get the right angle with the room left.
These kooks might have to go for straight pipe, but I'll give it a try to see if it can work first.
Polished up some tips on my lathe, not bad for an hour with stainless.
X pipe, guess I lost the side view shot.
started with stainless hookers
removed emissions ports and had them ceramic coated
Driver side was to give torque arm room, but it will be changed and I'll get a rear adjustable if I can't get the right angle with the room left.
These kooks might have to go for straight pipe, but I'll give it a try to see if it can work first.
Polished up some tips on my lathe, not bad for an hour with stainless.
X pipe, guess I lost the side view shot.
started with stainless hookers
removed emissions ports and had them ceramic coated
#1273
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Just like it says under the picture. It was an attempt to give room for the lower torque arm adjustments. It will be changed and the torque arm will only have the top 2 or 3 spots to adjust and if I can't get the pinion angle right then a rear adjustable torque arm will be put on it instead.
Mid and rear pipes welded up and brushed.
Back on to build hangers
After hanging these it's back to the front to change the driver side and add O2 bungs before welding it up.
Mid and rear pipes welded up and brushed.
Back on to build hangers
After hanging these it's back to the front to change the driver side and add O2 bungs before welding it up.
#1274
That came out great. I'm itching to redo my setup due to sub par fitment and clearance. I really like the idea of adding some v-band clamps along with slip fit 1" wide band clamps. I have some butt joint connections now that I hate.
What v-band clamps did you use? I see the more expensive ones have a inner locating shoulder machined into them while others are simply flat surfaces.
What v-band clamps did you use? I see the more expensive ones have a inner locating shoulder machined into them while others are simply flat surfaces.
#1275
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
The guy doing it has a awesome source to these for cheap, like $35 and they don't have the locators. They are however a lot thicker than the one with locators and if you think the a joint will need so help because of a load you can just run the pipe short on one side and long on the other so sticks through. We just redid the header to X pipe and it will be welded up tomorrow. Then we just have to source some stock to make a couple bolt together spots, add a hanger or two, and set and weld the tips on to it. Clearance isn't to bad, but car is lowered. What is the stock height to the top of the wheel wells on these? I bought this car at this height and would love to know how much it was lowered.
#1278
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (1)
Measured it today and got 26" to front fender lip and 27.5" to the rear fender lip. Are there springs that lower this little? I doubt it's stock height. I hope it's not stock height. I want to raise it for more clearance. Thinking I might have to put big wheels on to keep it from looking like a truck.
Also wrapped my secondary back the the X pipe.
Also wrapped my secondary back the the X pipe.
#1279
Measured it today and got 26" to front fender lip and 27.5" to the rear fender lip. Are there springs that lower this little? I doubt it's stock height. I hope it's not stock height. I want to raise it for more clearance. Thinking I might have to put big wheels on to keep it from looking like a truck.
Stock(when I first bought it):
Strano Springs:
#1280
TECH Regular
iTrader: (3)
I bought the Hooker Blackheart dual exhaust system that was meant for their mid length headers and fit it to my TSP long tubes using a couple 3" high flow cats, 3" to 2.5" recducers, and 12" of 2.5" tube. You can read more about it here:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cats-home.html
It's nice having a catted exhaust that still has some volume to it. When I put cats on my magnaflow catback it sounded stock. This one sounds a little louder and meaner than the magnaflow did with an ory but doesn't stink like an ory does!
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...cats-home.html
It's nice having a catted exhaust that still has some volume to it. When I put cats on my magnaflow catback it sounded stock. This one sounds a little louder and meaner than the magnaflow did with an ory but doesn't stink like an ory does!