04-25-2016, 04:07 PM
Last edit by: IB Advertising
See related guides and technical advice from our community experts:
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
- Camaro and Firebird: Catback Exhaust Reviews
Review and comparison of top products
Browse all: Air Intake and Exhaust Guides
True Duals, questions answered here. Post YOUR information and pics too!
07-07-2015, 08:10 PM
#1241
I've got magnaflows with modified rear seat buckets and they sound fantastic. Only problem is where they are dumped before the axle. I think you're going to have to get it piped out the back of the car to achieve what you want. I have a straight piped vette with corsa extreme axlebacks that I daily drove no problem with conversation and music. Being piped out the back is the key for what you want.
An exhaust shop quoted me 150$ to redo the piping from my headers back (it hangs low) and install some oval Magnaflows after I purchase them. Is this a fair price?
07-07-2015, 09:17 PM
#1242
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If I get a chance I will try to get some. Honestly the way I did it was take a flat board such as a hardwood kitchen chair bottom and centered my floor jack under them. I then just slowly jacked up that area as if I was lifting the car until the seat bucket was essentially flattened. I verified it looked OK from inside. The mufflers fit, and you can't even tell based on the rear seats that I did anything.
07-07-2015, 09:18 PM
#1243
That's probably not bad, but I wouldn't do it if they use press-bent pipes. You should only be using mandrel bent pipes on your exhaust. Chances are the shop doesn't have a mandrel bender, so it'll be borderline garbage. IMO you're better off with a good Y pipe setup than a press-bent set of duals. Some race shops keep bins of pre-bent mandrel bends and they just pick/choose the right bend and cut them to fit. That's essentially how I made my duals.
You'd be better served with a single 4" pipe after a flowmaster merge. Mufflex used to make some awesome single 4" kits.
I guess it's all in what you want and what you're willing to part with to get what you want. Duals that dump at the axle will be cheaper and perform best. The single 4" is probably second, as a single 4" pipe is roughly 11% smaller than a pair of 3" pipes.
There's been plenty of power made on the standard f body y and single 3 inch. To get good flowing 3" duals that have good clearance will cost a lot.
If it's a daily driver that still has working a/c and good street manors that you daily drive and take the wife out in then duals aren't really the right setup, as chances are this isn't a max-effort LS project. Just rock a good flowing y and streetable catback and call it good. If you're out to make the most power and really have a dedicated muscle car and you don't want to spend an additional $500 to make it quiet then just angle the turn-downs so they're not pointing straight down and enjoy the music.
I guess the bottom line is that it might take some real cash to have your cake and eat it too. If you're not shooting for a 500rwhp all motor setup then it might be a waste.
I wish I could have all the money back that I spent in exhaust setups over the years, lol.
You'd be better served with a single 4" pipe after a flowmaster merge. Mufflex used to make some awesome single 4" kits.
I guess it's all in what you want and what you're willing to part with to get what you want. Duals that dump at the axle will be cheaper and perform best. The single 4" is probably second, as a single 4" pipe is roughly 11% smaller than a pair of 3" pipes.
There's been plenty of power made on the standard f body y and single 3 inch. To get good flowing 3" duals that have good clearance will cost a lot.
If it's a daily driver that still has working a/c and good street manors that you daily drive and take the wife out in then duals aren't really the right setup, as chances are this isn't a max-effort LS project. Just rock a good flowing y and streetable catback and call it good. If you're out to make the most power and really have a dedicated muscle car and you don't want to spend an additional $500 to make it quiet then just angle the turn-downs so they're not pointing straight down and enjoy the music.
I guess the bottom line is that it might take some real cash to have your cake and eat it too. If you're not shooting for a 500rwhp all motor setup then it might be a waste.
I wish I could have all the money back that I spent in exhaust setups over the years, lol.
07-08-2015, 07:04 AM
#1244
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's probably not bad, but I wouldn't do it if they use press-bent pipes. You should only be using mandrel bent pipes on your exhaust. Chances are the shop doesn't have a mandrel bender, so it'll be borderline garbage. IMO you're better off with a good Y pipe setup than a press-bent set of duals. Some race shops keep bins of pre-bent mandrel bends and they just pick/choose the right bend and cut them to fit. That's essentially how I made my duals.
You'd be better served with a single 4" pipe after a flowmaster merge. Mufflex used to make some awesome single 4" kits.
I guess it's all in what you want and what you're willing to part with to get what you want. Duals that dump at the axle will be cheaper and perform best. The single 4" is probably second, as a single 4" pipe is roughly 11% smaller than a pair of 3" pipes.
There's been plenty of power made on the standard f body y and single 3 inch. To get good flowing 3" duals that have good clearance will cost a lot.
If it's a daily driver that still has working a/c and good street manors that you daily drive and take the wife out in then duals aren't really the right setup, as chances are this isn't a max-effort LS project. Just rock a good flowing y and streetable catback and call it good. If you're out to make the most power and really have a dedicated muscle car and you don't want to spend an additional $500 to make it quiet then just angle the turn-downs so they're not pointing straight down and enjoy the music.
I guess the bottom line is that it might take some real cash to have your cake and eat it too. If you're not shooting for a 500rwhp all motor setup then it might be a waste.
I wish I could have all the money back that I spent in exhaust setups over the years, lol.
You'd be better served with a single 4" pipe after a flowmaster merge. Mufflex used to make some awesome single 4" kits.
I guess it's all in what you want and what you're willing to part with to get what you want. Duals that dump at the axle will be cheaper and perform best. The single 4" is probably second, as a single 4" pipe is roughly 11% smaller than a pair of 3" pipes.
There's been plenty of power made on the standard f body y and single 3 inch. To get good flowing 3" duals that have good clearance will cost a lot.
If it's a daily driver that still has working a/c and good street manors that you daily drive and take the wife out in then duals aren't really the right setup, as chances are this isn't a max-effort LS project. Just rock a good flowing y and streetable catback and call it good. If you're out to make the most power and really have a dedicated muscle car and you don't want to spend an additional $500 to make it quiet then just angle the turn-downs so they're not pointing straight down and enjoy the music.
I guess the bottom line is that it might take some real cash to have your cake and eat it too. If you're not shooting for a 500rwhp all motor setup then it might be a waste.
I wish I could have all the money back that I spent in exhaust setups over the years, lol.
Idle clip with spintechs: https://youtu.be/RCWmphpNq6Q
Idle clip with magnaflows: https://youtu.be/tBBVsbudO3g
LS1 Camaro 1st through 4th Gear pull: https://youtu.be/HLTBrutL6r0
07-08-2015, 08:28 AM
#1245
If I get a chance I will try to get some. Honestly the way I did it was take a flat board such as a hardwood kitchen chair bottom and centered my floor jack under them. I then just slowly jacked up that area as if I was lifting the car until the seat bucket was essentially flattened. I verified it looked OK from inside. The mufflers fit, and you can't even tell based on the rear seats that I did anything.
07-08-2015, 08:39 AM
#1246
Any opinion on the quote I was given? 150$ for redoing the piping from the headers back (not including mufflers?) This wasn't a very large shop so I'm wondering if the cheap price could have consequences or if this is just a good/reasonable deal. I have no reference on how much exhaust work should cost.
07-08-2015, 11:21 AM
#1247
Any opinion on the quote I was given? 150$ for redoing the piping from the headers back (not including mufflers?) This wasn't a very large shop so I'm wondering if the cheap price could have consequences or if this is just a good/reasonable deal. I have no reference on how much exhaust work should cost.
I have yet to come across ANY exhaust shop with a mandrel bends. Any speed shop I know buys premade bends and cuts them to fit. Worst case you plan out your exhaust and bring them the mandrel bends and let them cut them to fit.
07-09-2015, 07:56 AM
#1249
07-09-2015, 08:02 PM
#1250
True Duals, questions answered here. Post YOUR information and pics too! Take a look at the lines that run on the inner side of the driveshaft tunnel. I don't know if having a 98 (with return style fuel lines) and traction control has added some complexity to things, but I don't remember crushing the floor panels as being anything that would have helped. Maybe other year f bodys are different, but I swear those lines would have still been in the way...and this is coming from a guy that cut a hole in the floor to be able to bleed the clutch easier.
07-10-2015, 06:45 PM
#1251
TECH Resident
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: Salisbury, NC
Posts: 909
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
07-20-2015, 09:49 PM
#1253
I have a few questions for you guys. I recently picked up a '99 WS6 roller that I'm putting a LQ4 and T56 in. This winter I'll be building a iron 6.2, L92 heads, LS3 intake, BTR LS3 stage IV cam kit to swap into it. I have a set of speed engineering 1-7/8" headers with 3" collectors. I've been thinking about getting the Summit Racing 3" x pipe kit and some extra pipe and running true duals under the axle. Mufflers would be either Spintech super pro streets or pro streets. Tips would be 3" inlet Corsa clones from 6LE.
Any suggestions on muffler placement, before axle or after with tips attached? I know a exhaust shop that has done a couple under axle Camaro setups but he don't have a mandrel bender. Would it make that big of a difference on slight bends on the 3" pipe?
Any suggestions on muffler placement, before axle or after with tips attached? I know a exhaust shop that has done a couple under axle Camaro setups but he don't have a mandrel bender. Would it make that big of a difference on slight bends on the 3" pipe?
10-19-2015, 07:56 PM
#1256
My setup:
Speed Engineering 3/4 LTs to Speed Engineering Catless Y, modified and necked down to 2.5'' into a premade X pipe, then up and over and split into 16'' 2.5 in/out Dynomax race bullets, stock suspension and panhard equip. Bullets fit perfectly and are the perfect size to be tucked up in that spot. Turn downs off the back of the bullets. No tips, no random long pipes sticking out the back with no bumper cutout like its some Z71. No rasp or annoying "cheap" sounds like a bad merge Y.
However, it's LOUD. This muffler setup is not for the faint of muscle car. It is viciously deep and drones hard at 2,000RPM. Most other RPMs are fine especially down under 2k. Not recommend for an auto or converter car that drags around at 2-3k RPM everywhere. Since I have an M6, it rumbles quietly at 40, 50 & 70 in 5th or 6th depending. Its not really much of a drone, just a heavy bass tone that hits the right frequency and will pound your head with the windows down if cruised at 2k-2500. Its most likely exacerbated by the turn downs that bounce the exhaust note off the ground. If used on an auto, I would recommend cats or a dual in/out muffler downstream of the X and upstream of the bullets. I painted it black with engine enamel after these pics and it vanishes under the car without much of a trace. Nice and clean. I may add some cats or an upstream later to tame it down a bit if I get tired of the sound. Not sure how you guys deal with pre-axle dumps especially in an auto all day.
SE Catless mid modified:
Up & Over:
Nice and tucked:
Barely a trace:
Nothing to see here:
Speed Engineering 3/4 LTs to Speed Engineering Catless Y, modified and necked down to 2.5'' into a premade X pipe, then up and over and split into 16'' 2.5 in/out Dynomax race bullets, stock suspension and panhard equip. Bullets fit perfectly and are the perfect size to be tucked up in that spot. Turn downs off the back of the bullets. No tips, no random long pipes sticking out the back with no bumper cutout like its some Z71. No rasp or annoying "cheap" sounds like a bad merge Y.
However, it's LOUD. This muffler setup is not for the faint of muscle car. It is viciously deep and drones hard at 2,000RPM. Most other RPMs are fine especially down under 2k. Not recommend for an auto or converter car that drags around at 2-3k RPM everywhere. Since I have an M6, it rumbles quietly at 40, 50 & 70 in 5th or 6th depending. Its not really much of a drone, just a heavy bass tone that hits the right frequency and will pound your head with the windows down if cruised at 2k-2500. Its most likely exacerbated by the turn downs that bounce the exhaust note off the ground. If used on an auto, I would recommend cats or a dual in/out muffler downstream of the X and upstream of the bullets. I painted it black with engine enamel after these pics and it vanishes under the car without much of a trace. Nice and clean. I may add some cats or an upstream later to tame it down a bit if I get tired of the sound. Not sure how you guys deal with pre-axle dumps especially in an auto all day.
SE Catless mid modified:
Up & Over:
Nice and tucked:
Barely a trace:
Nothing to see here:
10-20-2015, 08:11 AM
#1257
My setup:
Speed Engineering 3/4 LTs to Speed Engineering Catless Y, modified and necked down to 2.5'' into a premade X pipe, then up and over and split into 16'' 2.5 in/out Dynomax race bullets, stock suspension and panhard equip. Bullets fit perfectly and are the perfect size to be tucked up in that spot. Turn downs off the back of the bullets. No tips, no random long pipes sticking out the back with no bumper cutout like its some Z71. No rasp or annoying "cheap" sounds like a bad merge Y.
However, it's LOUD. This muffler setup is not for the faint of muscle car. It is viciously deep and drones hard at 2,000RPM. Most other RPMs are fine especially down under 2k. Not recommend for an auto or converter car that drags around at 2-3k RPM everywhere. Since I have an M6, it rumbles quietly at 40, 50 & 70 in 5th or 6th depending. Its not really much of a drone, just a heavy bass tone that hits the right frequency and will pound your head with the windows down if cruised at 2k-2500. Its most likely exacerbated by the turn downs that bounce the exhaust note off the ground. If used on an auto, I would recommend cats or a dual in/out muffler downstream of the X and upstream of the bullets. I painted it black with engine enamel after these pics and it vanishes under the car without much of a trace. Nice and clean. I may add some cats or an upstream later to tame it down a bit if I get tired of the sound. Not sure how you guys deal with pre-axle dumps especially in an auto all day.
SE Catless mid modified:
Up & Over:
Nice and tucked:
Barely a trace:
Nothing to see here:
Speed Engineering 3/4 LTs to Speed Engineering Catless Y, modified and necked down to 2.5'' into a premade X pipe, then up and over and split into 16'' 2.5 in/out Dynomax race bullets, stock suspension and panhard equip. Bullets fit perfectly and are the perfect size to be tucked up in that spot. Turn downs off the back of the bullets. No tips, no random long pipes sticking out the back with no bumper cutout like its some Z71. No rasp or annoying "cheap" sounds like a bad merge Y.
However, it's LOUD. This muffler setup is not for the faint of muscle car. It is viciously deep and drones hard at 2,000RPM. Most other RPMs are fine especially down under 2k. Not recommend for an auto or converter car that drags around at 2-3k RPM everywhere. Since I have an M6, it rumbles quietly at 40, 50 & 70 in 5th or 6th depending. Its not really much of a drone, just a heavy bass tone that hits the right frequency and will pound your head with the windows down if cruised at 2k-2500. Its most likely exacerbated by the turn downs that bounce the exhaust note off the ground. If used on an auto, I would recommend cats or a dual in/out muffler downstream of the X and upstream of the bullets. I painted it black with engine enamel after these pics and it vanishes under the car without much of a trace. Nice and clean. I may add some cats or an upstream later to tame it down a bit if I get tired of the sound. Not sure how you guys deal with pre-axle dumps especially in an auto all day.
SE Catless mid modified:
Up & Over:
Nice and tucked:
Barely a trace:
Nothing to see here:
10-21-2015, 08:56 AM
#1258
CoolAid, I like that setup. That's the right way to do it. I hate the idea of dumps AND drone.
I'm running a 3" Stainless Works muffler mounted transverse under the trunk that has a decent tone and is quiet inside with LT's and catless.
At times I wish I had a sound like you do but since it's a DD I can't stand the bass/drone ALL the time.
I'm running a 3" Stainless Works muffler mounted transverse under the trunk that has a decent tone and is quiet inside with LT's and catless.
At times I wish I had a sound like you do but since it's a DD I can't stand the bass/drone ALL the time.
10-25-2015, 11:06 PM
#1260
Thanks to all, and to previous posters for the ideas.
I like the headers and the setup a lot. I'm not building a max effort car here, so I went with 3/4 to save some dollars and insure ease of fitment and workarounds. The setup is just about the same as I had on my GTO except that had an H pipe, and the setup got into the 11s just fine cam only.
I've adjusted to the tone a bit more and it sounds great. Really needs a cam now. Car pulls like a freight train in the cold air and feels a lot like my 116mph cammed GTO which isn't bad for a light modded 99 SS.
I like the headers and the setup a lot. I'm not building a max effort car here, so I went with 3/4 to save some dollars and insure ease of fitment and workarounds. The setup is just about the same as I had on my GTO except that had an H pipe, and the setup got into the 11s just fine cam only.
I've adjusted to the tone a bit more and it sounds great. Really needs a cam now. Car pulls like a freight train in the cold air and feels a lot like my 116mph cammed GTO which isn't bad for a light modded 99 SS.