160 Degree Thermostat
#5
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Yes but you'll need a tuner such as the Predator or a SLP/Caspers manual switch for your fans to operate correctly since your thermostat will be opening sooner.
#6
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#10
Tech Resident
there is a huge misconception with 160* thermostats with today's engines. a lot of old school car people swear by them and say they're great. this was true for engines in the 1960's and so. there were no emissions laws and gas was a quarter a gallon. the engines were designed to run cool. they have this knowledge in their head then spread it to the younger generation. this is a mistake.
today's engines are engineered to run hot. why? engines that run hot get better fuel economy and produce less emissions. a 160* thermostat in an LS1 is actually very bad for it. the oil we use today needs to get hot to boil the water out of it that accumulates in it naturally due to condensation and humidity. the oil will reach higher temperatures less, boiling out less water. not only that, oils today are heat activated. they will not clean your engine unless they are hot. if you run cool, you will be leaving dirt, scum and God knows what behind.
a 160* thermostat will also kill your gas mileage. i've seen reports of fuel mpg dropping - no lie - 4mpg due to a 160* thermostat. i don't have the links, you'll just have to take my word on it.
our engines were specifically engineered for the stock thermostat. all the tuning and PCM diagnostics in the WORLD with a 160* thermostat will not keep your engine running better than stock simply because it will be much dirtier since the oil detergents don't fully activate. please stay away from the 160* thermostat in a modern engine. don't try to fight engineering for the sake of 3 horsepower. you'll be losing soooo much more than you'll be gaining. reprogram your fans to come on at ~210*-215*. this will keep you running cooler and will assure your oil runs at high enough temperatures to do a good cleaning job. we spend $6 a quart on synthetic oil. what's the point of buying it if we're not letting it do its job?
today's engines are engineered to run hot. why? engines that run hot get better fuel economy and produce less emissions. a 160* thermostat in an LS1 is actually very bad for it. the oil we use today needs to get hot to boil the water out of it that accumulates in it naturally due to condensation and humidity. the oil will reach higher temperatures less, boiling out less water. not only that, oils today are heat activated. they will not clean your engine unless they are hot. if you run cool, you will be leaving dirt, scum and God knows what behind.
a 160* thermostat will also kill your gas mileage. i've seen reports of fuel mpg dropping - no lie - 4mpg due to a 160* thermostat. i don't have the links, you'll just have to take my word on it.
our engines were specifically engineered for the stock thermostat. all the tuning and PCM diagnostics in the WORLD with a 160* thermostat will not keep your engine running better than stock simply because it will be much dirtier since the oil detergents don't fully activate. please stay away from the 160* thermostat in a modern engine. don't try to fight engineering for the sake of 3 horsepower. you'll be losing soooo much more than you'll be gaining. reprogram your fans to come on at ~210*-215*. this will keep you running cooler and will assure your oil runs at high enough temperatures to do a good cleaning job. we spend $6 a quart on synthetic oil. what's the point of buying it if we're not letting it do its job?
#11
Tech Resident
Originally Posted by black_knight
my post sounds exactly like this article. i feel so smart
#14
Originally Posted by ChocoTaco369
...the oil we use today needs to get hot to boil the water out of it that accumulates in it naturally due to condensation and humidity. the oil will reach higher temperatures less, boiling out less water...
Hurting MPG? then you shouldn't have gotten a V8
Some of us have the optional power steering cooler (RPO V12) which adds more temp to the coolant.
Also, ask him if he has a stick or Auto....us A4 guys have HOTTTT tranny fluid running through our radiators.
Both of these are extra sources that add to engine temp an adding a lower T-stat would be beneficial IMO
Who needs to worry about detergents when you run fully synthetic and change oil every 3000. When I took my motor apart for my H/C swap (I have been running Mobil 1 since it was Brand new) my valve train and valley were totally sludge free and had no discoloration or build up that you see when running petroleum based dino-oils.
#15
Tech Resident
Originally Posted by ilirw325
I have heard this before, if all the water from condensation isn't getting out of the system then why doesn't our oil turn into milkshake color from mixing with all this water that that lower degree thermostat isn't allowing the engine to evaporate? Why, because any water that does accumulate in the initial start up does evaporate.
Hurting MPG? then you shouldn't have gotten a V8
Some of us have the optional power steering cooler (RPO V12) which adds more temp to the coolant.
Also, ask him if he has a stick or Auto....us A4 guys have HOTTTT tranny fluid running through our radiators.
Both of these are extra sources that add to engine temp an adding a lower T-stat would be beneficial IMO
Also, ask him if he has a stick or Auto....us A4 guys have HOTTTT tranny fluid running through our radiators.
Both of these are extra sources that add to engine temp an adding a lower T-stat would be beneficial IMO
tranny temps too hot? run a tranny cooler. a tranny is where cool oil temps ARE good!
Who needs to worry about detergents when you run fully synthetic and change oil every 3000. When I took my motor apart for my H/C swap (I have been running Mobil 1 since it was Brand new) my valve train and valley were totally sludge free and had no discoloration or build up that you see when running petroleum based dino-oils.
i'm not trying to be mean, your entire argument is just lies and misconception. it's all wrong. please don't fight your engine. run it how it was engineered to run. you're only hurting it by doing otherwise.
you're arguing fact, here. look at it this way: today is august 14, 2006 in the USA. you can call today july 3, 1948 if you want and you can argue that with me - but it's an argument you'll never win. please, run the engine like it was made to be ran. you'll only hurt yourself in the long run
Last edited by ChocoTaco369; 08-14-2006 at 10:53 AM.
#16
do you think water just sits on top of oil? when the motor spins even at idle the oil turns to a milkshake? have you ever seen a cracked block and have coolant mix with oil? it turns to a milkshake ?
#17
Tech Resident
Originally Posted by ilirw325
do you think water just sits on top of oil? when the motor spins even at idle the oil turns to a milkshake? have you ever seen a cracked block and have coolant mix with oil? it turns to a milkshake ?
look, i really don't want to argue over facts with you. we're going to mess up the thread. there's some good info here and i don't want it to be lost by a 3 page argument, followed by the thread being closed by a mod. if you want to run a 160* thermostat, you're perfectly entitled to. i just want to point out some information showing that it's actually worse to do so. sometimes, you can't teach an old dog new tricks, but i'm just hoping i can win one of those old dogs over.
#18
water mixes with oil and makes a mikshake typed substance(which, Yes, when let sit will separate into your water on oil)...It happens all the time in marine engine(which are cooled with lake water) when a block/water jacket cracks and gets into the oil.
Also i have been runnin a 160 tstat and my engine was clean when taken apart...so since the detergents are heat activated I must have been gettin it up to temp even with that terrible 160 tstat?
Also i have been runnin a 160 tstat and my engine was clean when taken apart...so since the detergents are heat activated I must have been gettin it up to temp even with that terrible 160 tstat?
#19
you are just a dumb college kid, like I am, except i am passed the "know it all stage"
that you seem to be stuck in......typical online mechanic... i think I read you are an engineering student as am I at Purdue. Big difference tho...I turn my own wrenches and have knowledge based on doing and not on what tens of thousands of other people on a message board have said...I know you like to get the last word...so i will wait for it and then laugh again.
that you seem to be stuck in......typical online mechanic... i think I read you are an engineering student as am I at Purdue. Big difference tho...I turn my own wrenches and have knowledge based on doing and not on what tens of thousands of other people on a message board have said...I know you like to get the last word...so i will wait for it and then laugh again.
Last edited by ilirw325; 08-14-2006 at 11:18 AM.
#20
If your MPGs drop I wonder if using thinner oil would help.
It's pretty dry around here so I have no worries about water in the oil, atleast in the summer. For the rest of the year the water that might get in there should start evaporating when the oil temperature gets above the dew point anyway.
It's pretty dry around here so I have no worries about water in the oil, atleast in the summer. For the rest of the year the water that might get in there should start evaporating when the oil temperature gets above the dew point anyway.