SteelForce

Anyway im putting these upgrades in my 98 WS6. Some of these parts were suggestions in one of my posts from a couple of days ago. I really appriciate it guys....Anyway they are.....

FAST LSX Intake 90mm

FAST 90mm TB w/TPS

Patriot Stage II Center Bolt LS6 ported heads 59cc

G2 HF Lid

Granatelli MAF Sensor w/cold air tuning

GMMG chambered exhaust w/oval tips....

Thats about $3900 right there....Ive got about 1K left to play with for headers/y pipe


Im still stuck on which headers to pair up with the GMMG. Ive heard the pacesetters and hookers personally but im really liking what ive read about kooks. Anybody recommend the kooks over the pacesetter lt's or hooker setup. And whats a good Y pipe to go with the Kooks or pacesetter?

Suggestions wanted....thanks again....

00'WS6Rocket

iTrader: (3)

if you got 1k left you could prolly get the pacesetters and true duals... Pacesetters are the cheapest priced I believe... thats a good deal if your getting all that above for 3900. I've heard problems with the fast 90 tb, alot of people get the nick williams 90, also tunning problems with the aftermarket maf.. Thats just what i've heard I have no first hand knowlage of those two problems.. someone will probably clear it up some.

RrCoX22

iTrader: (6)

looks good except like said...

replace the FAST 90 TB w/a NW 90

and don't touch the MAF... save the money..

top notch stainless headers would be either kooks or QTP w/HVMC
otherwise to save more than half of those go with Pacesetter and will see no more than 5~7rwhp difference

and yes true duals would be a lot more cheaper than an GMMG... but if you must go right ahead as they practically sound the same

lastly i sure hope you getting a cam to help those heads and everything else out... don't see why not as you will already have everything else torn out... just a though

SteelForce

The Cam is coming, just havent got to that yet

Thanks for the advice on the NW TB. I hadnt really heard any negatives about the FAST until i got on here....

Outlaw LS1

iTrader: (4)

i just ordered coated pacesetters w/o emissions. Ive heard great things about them, even though they suck for lt1s

RrCoX22

iTrader: (6)

no one is tellng you which to go with but the NW is just the prefered by the majority of ls1techers here... with either you can't go wrong

and on the cam

scotts94_z28

pacesetter lt's and tsp catted y if you dont run cats that gmmg will sound like **** and be a waste of money or save the head for when you do a cam also and get kooks lt's and stainless catted y

300bhp/ton

Everyones setup and personal preference is different. Judging by this list you don't have any mods so far?

Personally there's quite a bit I'd change.

1. FAST 90 TB has had alot of issues. Go for PTM or NW.

2. Unless you also have a blower, then I'd probably stick with the stock MAF. The HP gain will be minimal at best and not worth the $/HP IMO

3. I don't know who makes that lid, but a lid is a lid. So as long as it's not more than $95 I'd say no probs.

4. Never looked into those heads either? How much are they? Also have you considered things like injectors, ported oil pump, timing chain, head studs. If you plan on a cam you'll need them. And there's not any real point doing heads without a cam.

5. GMMG is a nice exhaust, pricey but good. There are lots of other options however. As for headers, yes Pacesetter headers are good for the price. If you want stainless steel headers then Kooks or QTP maybe worth a look. But theres not real HP difference. Mid pipes are avaialable for all the headers, do you plan on CATS or ORY?

Personally I think you could probably get more performance for less money if you wanted.

Example:

Texas Speed & Performance
PRC Stage 1 heads and a cam, V3 or MS4
Pacesetter headers & TSP ORY
Lid (TSP)
FAST 90 & PTM 90mm TB
GMMG

reckon this should be under $4k and it would give you h/c/i. You'd still need the extra's like head studs, ported oil pump and such and a good tune. Or depending on what cam you went for you could go for the new Terminator heads.

Are you M6 or A4? As gears or stall would probably be a good idea as well.

00'WS6Rocket

iTrader: (3)

^^^ good question! if a4 you might want to think about a torque converter, to go along with the head/cam

SteelForce

Yeah i actually just got the car about 6 months ago. I just got out of the air force and right after i bought it i had to deploy to Iraq for 4 months. So i havent really had the time to upgrade anything yet. It was a great deal, only 58 K miles on it, got it for 10K even.

Its an A4(wanted the M6, but it was such a sweet deal)

I do appriciate the suggestions. Ive saved up enough to make some significant upgrades, but im trying to figure out which ones i should go with now, and which ones can wait a while longer on.

Do you think it makes more sense to go with a head/cam package or buy the 2 seperate?

NOBR8KSS

iTrader: (12)

I would agree about the FAST 90mm TB...I've heard some bad things about the throttle blade sticking open...that's dangerous.

As for the heads, I would say you are doing the right thing by choosing your heads first. Cam selection should always match your cylinder heads, not vice versa. Patriot is a great value from what I read on the boards here. There were some issues with them in the past, but I think they have been resolved and Gunnar will stand behind his products. The valve springs on those heads are some of the best out right now.

As for the headers, if you plan on keeping the car for a lot of years, I would bite the bullet and go for Kooks or QTP stainless steel.

I personally think the best header value right now is the Edelbrocks with the welded collectors. Heard some great things about those as far as fit, quality, and performance. They also have a nice temperature coating called "Ti-Tech" that people are impressed with. I think you can get a set of their headers with a good y-pipe for around $500, which is a steal. The Edelbrock y-pipe also has a nice fit and a well made collector.

The Pacesetter y-pipe really isn't that good (unless they changed it). There is a section of it that is crushed for ground clearance and the y-junction could be much better. Seems more like a "T" than a "Y".

I've heard mostly good things about the Pacesetters, but I wouldn't buy them for the reasons above.

00'WS6Rocket

iTrader: (3)

If you do the head/cam package, you'll get everything you need, plus it would be cheaper to do them both at the same time then have one done and the other at a different time, if your taking it to a shop any way. My pacesetter headers have been on the car for just about a year and there is a very very light rust on the collecters, but my car is also a daily driver in all weather... whereas stainless steel should stay rust free forever. you could also browse the "stuff for sale" threads sometimes theres some awsome deals on barely used parts ie. heads/cam/springs stuff in that nature. I just got a set of MTI stage 2e on there for 900.00, (originally 1,700 w/exchange)but since there are no stealth cams being sold I'll have to buy it from MTI.

Alot of people will tell you to get a stall/torque converter installed before or during your head/cam install. you might want to check out some prices on those.


if your tight on money you could always hold off on the 90/90 untill you raise the 1k. thats stuff could be easily installed by yourself.

SteelForce

Well ive decided to go with the QTP LT's. I'm planning on having the car for a while and i am high on quality. Anyway the question i have is should i get the Race Style No EGR/AF's or go with the ones that have both of those?

Also, ive heard the setup that im putting on my car (QTP LT's, GMMG) with the catted ypipe. Is it true that without them it will sound like crap.....

Thanks for your help

300bhp/ton

The only difference between race headers and normal is the EGR/AIR attachments. No HP difference.

What year is you car? 01+ cars didn't have EGR. Plus if you go FAST 90 you'd have to remove it anyhow. EGR doesn't cost any HP at all, so it's not a biggy.

The AIR system pumps outside air into the exhaust at startup, it runs for 20 secs to a minute. This helps promote the chemical reaction in the cats. Again it doesn't cost any HP. But more modern cats like on most aftermarket setups don't require it. Only cheap crap CATS like the OEM ones do.

The choice is yours. If you want to go to the hassle of removing the EGR./AIR then go for it. It will throw some codes though so you'll need to get them deleted. If you don't want to bother it really won't be of any harm.

SteelForce

So i should be going the NON EGR route since i have to remove it anyhow (with my FAST 90)?

300bhp/ton

Yep I would.