removing the air pump!!!
02-14-2007, 11:04 PM
#2
You are going to be deleting AIR/EGR then I assume? You will need the codes turned off by a tuner after the fact. the airpump is like 4-6 bolts and removes within 15 minutes. You have to pull out the friction pins, or whatever you want to call them in front of the wheel well to get to it. It is really easy once you locate it. When I took both of mine out, it was the nastiest thing I have ever seen. Wear some gloves, or you will be changing ethnicity from the elbow down. 
02-14-2007, 11:09 PM
#3
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Originally Posted by orangeapeel
You are going to be deleting AIR/EGR then I assume? You will need the codes turned off by a tuner after the fact. the airpump is like 4-6 bolts and removes within 15 minutes. You have to pull out the friction pins, or whatever you want to call them in front of the wheel well to get to it. It is really easy once you locate it. When I took both of mine out, it was the nastiest thing I have ever seen. Wear some gloves, or you will be changing ethnicity from the elbow down.
02-14-2007, 11:11 PM
#4
funny thing i decided to do mine today....after a long time of it just doing nothing...
heres what i did:
took the componets out of the engine first, ie hose, tubes, and made my block off plates from alumn...
next i took the 3 fuses out
then i got under the front drivers side and undid 4 10mm bolts on the undercarriage....once the flap was open i took a ratchet and undid 2 10mm bolts and it slid out.....finally i took the brace assembly and other pump material out...total of 5 10mm bolts...and that was it
heres what i did:
took the componets out of the engine first, ie hose, tubes, and made my block off plates from alumn...
next i took the 3 fuses out
then i got under the front drivers side and undid 4 10mm bolts on the undercarriage....once the flap was open i took a ratchet and undid 2 10mm bolts and it slid out.....finally i took the brace assembly and other pump material out...total of 5 10mm bolts...and that was it
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I blew another one on a nitrous install, and it was like 9 bucks. 
02-14-2007, 11:36 PM
#14
Originally Posted by staringback05
the what behind the who?!
its just a T joint where the two tubes meet behind the manifold....yank that bitch out
its just a T joint where the two tubes meet behind the manifold....yank that bitch out
And you thought the only diffrence was the hose on the air lid.
Last edited by thunderdan74; 02-14-2007 at 11:41 PM.
02-14-2007, 11:41 PM
#16
Originally Posted by thunderdan74
y2k cars have a vacume operated pump valve and solniod where the 99s have that T fitting and that stuff is on the pump assembly. Not sure on other years. It's a bit of a pain to remove without breaking it. So just rip it out if you not saving it.
ahhh i see.....wierd my 01 motor didnt have that....yeaaaa for the T fitting
02-18-2007, 05:45 AM
#19
Originally Posted by BackinBlack02SS
3 Fuses? Isn't there only 1 30A fuse and 1 relay?
if you read the top of the covers, youll understand....1 in 1 box 2 in the other
yes youll need to cap you exhaust manifolds....just cut some alumn. or sheet metal.....
02-18-2007, 06:47 AM
#20
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im thinking of doing this also, does anyone know if ill still be able to pass mass inspection??? if i get the codes turned off that is, and does it make run different??