Those with banging Ypipes...
#4
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Originally Posted by Tainted
take a cheap U clamp from advance auto and run a piece of hose through it and and slip it on the pipe wherever it hits at. very cheap fix that works
Sooner or later the header itself will start hitting on deleleration as well as acceleration. You wont fix that with a mufflex. Do it right the first time and dont be a hack
#5
Originally Posted by 99blancoSS
Bunch of friggin hacks. Fix it right and replace the motor mount with a poly one. The Mufflex and homemade version are a joke.\\
Sooner or later the header itself will start hitting on deleleration as well as acceleration. You wont fix that with a mufflex. Do it right the first time and dont be a hack
Sooner or later the header itself will start hitting on deleleration as well as acceleration. You wont fix that with a mufflex. Do it right the first time and dont be a hack
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#10
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This is the same type of questions people post up after they can't get their car to drive decently after putting a big cam in it. It all goes back to lack of planning / not knowing what you were getting into. In the case of the cam-install, it's not budgeting or scheduling a tune. Here, it's not understanding that 3" pipe is going to interfer with the floor when the motor torques and NEEDS to be addressed.
If you want to put long tubes on your car, buy some motor mounts to replace your worn out rubbers stockers.
Ben T.
If you want to put long tubes on your car, buy some motor mounts to replace your worn out rubbers stockers.
Ben T.
#11
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My Jet hot pipe was right against the floor on the passender side. I pried it as far down away from the car as I could and wedged a piece of wood between it and the floor to hold stress on it. I then used a floor jack on the opposite side that had too mutch clearance and twisted the Y pipe and retightened all clamps. After removing the wood, jack ect. I had a little over 1" clearance on both sides. This method also works on pipes that have all joints welded as it will still tweak the system just fine. Dont apply the stress right at the collector as you dont want to tweak the primarys of the header itself, only the Y pipe.
No need for rubber hose ect. and it will not dent or scratch the system if you use a block of wood, cardboard ect.
No need for rubber hose ect. and it will not dent or scratch the system if you use a block of wood, cardboard ect.
#16
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bumpstop and poly mounts = banging y pipe for me still. Catted Y.
My best fix: driving over random steep driveways that scrape really good...the kind where everyone in the car flinches. Yeah, those accidental occurances seem to work the best for my banging. I can go about a month before its banging again. At that point i look for something else to get stuck on. lol.
What can I say, I hate my TSP Y. I've had that thing off a million times readjusting and the only way i can get it to not bang is only worth a coke can on its side.
Goin with a custom 2.5" under axle true dual. to fix that problem.
My best fix: driving over random steep driveways that scrape really good...the kind where everyone in the car flinches. Yeah, those accidental occurances seem to work the best for my banging. I can go about a month before its banging again. At that point i look for something else to get stuck on. lol.
What can I say, I hate my TSP Y. I've had that thing off a million times readjusting and the only way i can get it to not bang is only worth a coke can on its side.
Goin with a custom 2.5" under axle true dual. to fix that problem.