DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
#1
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DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
People here keep stripping threads on there crankshaft when removing / installing the crank pulley. If you don't have the GM special tool or it's equiv. to remove or re-install the crank pulley, you must use a LONGER CRANK BOLT
Ron, where the hell do I get a longer bolt?
The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is actually 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is about $5.50. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Stacking two washers on the bolt works better than one.
Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. You can use this hardened socket with your regular breaker bar.
Note: You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Ron,
Ron, where the hell do I get a longer bolt?
The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is actually 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is about $5.50. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Stacking two washers on the bolt works better than one.
Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!
Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. You can use this hardened socket with your regular breaker bar.
Note: You will also need this longer bolt to start pushing the pulley back on the crank during re-assembly. The stock bolt is just not long enough, and banging on the pulley to start it on the crank is NOT the answer.
Ron,
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
I went to my local NAPA store to buy that bolt and theye didnt have it. He said he could order a box of them for me, he couldnt get just one. The price was rediculous and I walked out. Luckily we had no probs getting my ASP pully back on using the old stock crank bolt.
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
Thanks for the specs and part number of the bolt it will be helpful in the future if I ever need to take off my crank pulley again.
#6
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
We could do a "Group Purchase" of the box of bolts. They are under 13 ounces each, so they could be shipped first class mail on distribution for about $1 each.....
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
I'll still say it is not good practice to use a bolt to pull the pulley on. You should use a stud (all thread) and a nut with a washer. You can still damage the crank threads by screwing a bolt into them while under the load of pressing the pulley on.
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
All those specs are on the cam install writeup on my site. The NAPA's around here didnt have the bolt either, but just about every bolt shop will have one.
Also, if you have an ASP pulley, you probably will be just fine with the stock bolt.
Also, if you have an ASP pulley, you probably will be just fine with the stock bolt.
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
Most NAPA stores will not sell you one bolt. You are lucky if you finsd one that does. They will sell you a whole box at a rediculous price. Reason being they can't send back a partial box of something they will be stuck with. Go to Fastenal. Get a threaded rod and some nuts with the same specs. This is way easier than arguing with NAPA over one bolt. You can only get a whole box from NAPA web site also.
JAY
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
I grinded the lip off one of my old crank pulley bolts so it will rest on the crank and allow the pulley to still be pulled off, it releives tension on the threads and make a pulley change quite easy, a tip for folks that dont have a napa around. if you want pics PM me.
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Re: DON'T Strip Your Crank Threads > Here is some info you need!
Here's a picture of my pulley installer.
Add the pipe section (on the right) to make it a crank timing gear installer. Use the lower section of threaded rod to push against with a 3-jaw puller to get the pulley (or timing gear) off the crank. Cost: about $20. An industrial bolt store will have the threaded rod, nut, and washer. The pipe fitting / pieces came from Home Depot.
-Andrew
Add the pipe section (on the right) to make it a crank timing gear installer. Use the lower section of threaded rod to push against with a 3-jaw puller to get the pulley (or timing gear) off the crank. Cost: about $20. An industrial bolt store will have the threaded rod, nut, and washer. The pipe fitting / pieces came from Home Depot.
-Andrew