Thule

i've bin testing my car a little bit for the first time w/ new combo,

the car spins the rears much more agressivele then before, and sounds pure evil, but still its not as powerfull as i was hoping,

there are some things i know that could be causin this, but can you see anything wrong w/my set up?

my set up is..

98 z28 m6

modds (powerwise)
engine:
patriot stageII ls6 heads, 59cc 11,1:1compr
harland sharp roller rockers
patriot extreme lift springs
comp cams chromoly push rods
ls7 lifters
226/226 595,595 112LSA cam
FAST 90mm intake
FAST fuel rails
36lb's injectors
NW 90mm throttle boddy
85mm maf
85mm fast toys lid
fast toys ram air system
pacesetter LT's
ORY
loudmouth catback
knock sensor modd
AGR delete
air pump delete
racetronic fuel system
new ECU w/mail order map from jon@texasspeed,

and most likely something i forgot when i was making this,
my hopes where to get around 420rwhp with this combo.

the car is mapped for a 150shot, with un gapped tr6's,

whar hp's should i expect?

i feel like i am always seeing someones here badtalk the patriot heads, but when i bougth them everyone here talked well about them? are they crap? they looked like a real qualaty product,

here is my engine bay.. a lot of money has gone to this.. so it would be rather sad if this isn't any good,

Zach79Z

iTrader: (21)

Problem is you have no Mass air flow sensor lol jk

I woulda went with a slightly larger cam myself. But if it just blows the tires off id get some good tires then try that before you change anything

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

I think the camshaft is on the pretty conservative side and it might need gears to help get moving as well. Something like 4.10 since its a stick.

You have a big MAF,big T/B and intake, good heads and compression right where you want it, and a pretty small cam to control all the air coming in/out.

My opinion.

EDIT: Your engine bay looks ****** awesome though man...I want a set of those valve covers soooo bad.

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

what power did u put down?...its not dyno tuned and mail orders are only so so.

Thule

Yes the cam is small. And i want to go bigger, but when i bougth the cam i wanted good street cam w/good power curve and 400rwhp+, and then add nitroush,

i think my current combo has more to give, i need a wideband sensor and start to check things,

Any ideas of what hp's i should aim at?

Thanks for that! I am still not happy w/ the enginebay, but its gettin there

GT Griller

iTrader: (8)

So u dont in fact know what power ur making? How do u know ur not making the power u wanted?

Thule

Gt griller, dynotune isn't possible here
I need to learn more about tuning myself,

What hp's are you at?

I think i've also maid almoast any changes/modds i've seen here at ls1tech,

New shortblock 99+ style block, most of the internal modds,

The plan is to go 383 and big cam, but that will take sometine, but i want to make the most out of what i got until i get something new. There are -400 miles on the current combo

RsSean

iTrader: (27)

I was thinking the car with a good tune I would hope you would push 420+ then add the spary, 500's lows, I have a 224/224 with no heads in the high 3's

MrElectric03

iTrader: (71)

My setup was pretty close to yours but I had a 226/232 and a ported 92 and I made 443 rwhp and 397 rwtq. I dont think you will have much trouble making 420+ but you gotta find a dyno.

DIRTY_WS6

iTrader: (3)

yeah you should break 420 easily with your heads/cam car, upgrade that cam a bit too...

Michael02hawk

iTrader: (26)

Like stated, a Dynotune not only proves the power you are or are not making, it also makes the most power out of your setup.

But I'd also point to the Patriot heads...They are low end aftermarket heads that are only going to make so much power. Basically, you get what you pay for.

Heads and a cam need to be chosen together & compliment each other.

I'd suggest getting a head/cam combination spec'd out from a sponsor on here that knows what they are selling.

Thule

This head/cam came as a package, from a sponsor,

wreckless

iTrader: (11)

your engine bay is very nice! i like how you ran your nitrous wiring.

JD Race Cars

Call Matt at Texas Speed, they are the sponsor he is talking about. They have a lot of experience with combos close to yours!

Thule

Thanks for the good words,

I am wery pleased with how the nitrous came out. First nitrous install i've ever done,

GTgriller, its my bottom sensor that tells me that it needs power.
I will dyno it, but as now i am finishing the car to get it on the road agen, it has bin in the garage for 3years.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Those of you who are suggesting the OP get a different cam or heads should hold up a minute. Since he's paid to ship these parts to Iceland, Thule has a substantial investment in the current list of parts - all of which should easily meet his goals with a proper setup & tune. Perhaps there is enough wheelspin that the "bottom sensor" is not picking up all those new-found rwhp.

If it is not obvious, the package is from Patriot - that is one of their cams. Those are Comp Cams XE-R lobes, same as Texas Speed and many other sponsors here use. Texas Speed provided the mail order tune, so I assume they have tweaked things as close as one could hope for opposite sides of the pond.

One possiblity is the installation of the cam. If the pushrods are not the correct length for the setup as installed, or if the cam was not properly degreed, you could be leaving some power on the table. Unfortunetly, it sounds like you could be left to your own devices to figure out just where you stand. Without any way to accurately measure your performance, it would be tough to say that you're missing anything obvious. Do you have a drapstrip anywhere in your area? Have you taken the car to the track before and after the mods?

Best of luck!

CriminiSS

iTrader: (16)

Dont worry man, I only dynoed 400rwhp with afr 205s and a custom spec 231/237 cam and I was pretty darn disappointed with thatuntil I hit the track and trapped 124 in a full weight car. Its not just about dyno numbers.

TooLateVTEC

iTrader: (2)

Thule, what gears do you have now, stock?

Gear will really wake the car up as well. And will be cheaper than changing cams/springs/push rods.

Thule

update,

the there was a wacum leac causin this, the SES ligth came, fixed that and for the first time i could test the new motor, its quick like hell and the engine runs grate, a little bit more valvetrain noise, but i took the break in oil off, and filled it up with new one, and will see hows it goes,

now i cant wait to spray it.

thank you hammertime, your post was wery good

i have the oem 3,42 radio. and yes i could feel how much the car needs 4,10, isn't it a dead end to install 4.10 in the 10bolt?

PREDATOR-Z

did you check you p-rod length and what is your preload?