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HELP! from anyone who has done an oil pump

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Old 11-21-2003, 01:31 PM
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Unhappy HELP! from anyone who has done an oil pump

I need some quick help. I put on a Rollmaster timing chain and now I am having a hell of a time getting the oil pump pickup tube tightened back down to the oil pump. I am not sure if it is different from trucks (what I am working on) and LS1 motors, but can you just turn the flange on the pickup tube 180* and just tighten it on the other side of the oil pump? That would make this a thousand times easier as long as oiling functions and pressure will still work properly. It looks like things would hold normally just like if the bolt were tightened from the other side to me. Has anyone successfully done this?

This is a picture of what I am talking about. See the arrow and how the bolt is on the arrow side...can you just turn the flange 180* and install the bolt on the other side of the oil pump?

Thank you so much for the help, my hands are too big to get in there and this is kicking my ***
Ryan
Old 11-21-2003, 01:36 PM
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If I remember correctly when I did mine, you can't just turn the flange and install the bolt, there either isn't a bolt hole or the flange won't turn, I forget but remember trying to and it wouldn't work. It is a PITA to do tho, I'm running a Rollmaster double roller too, just takes patience and finagling, don't bolt down the oil pump, it has to be free and able to swivel a little to get that tube on there. Good luck.

-Sly
Old 11-21-2003, 01:44 PM
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The flange turns on mine freely and there is a threaded hole on the 180* side of the oil pump like in the picture above...you can kind of see the hole above the flange on the left.
I think I can get it to work, but I need some more input b/c I am stuck if it has to go on the right side of the pump.
Thanks for the quick reply Sly. anyone else have some input from doing this?
Old 11-21-2003, 01:48 PM
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Not sure, but on the 2wd trucks the oil pan can be dropped in about 15 minutes. The frame unbolts in the middle with 4 bolts and you have direct access! The starter wiring harness plastic guide sometimes gets in the way, but unbolt that also and move it outta the way.
Old 11-21-2003, 01:48 PM
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All C5's use the upper hole, so I don't see why you can't just use the upper hole yourself.
Old 11-21-2003, 01:55 PM
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Originally Posted by jmX
All C5's use the upper hole, so I don't see why you can't just use the upper hole yourself.
They do... haha Yes! I knew it was the same principle. It just tightens to squeeze that pick up tube to the pump.
C5 pumps are the same as trucks right? If so I think I will go ahead and turn the flange 180*.
Old 11-21-2003, 02:00 PM
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If you installed a RollMaster Double Row Chain you have to install the supplied shims on the oil pump. This won't affect the pickup tube but the chain will rub on the back of the pump.
Old 11-21-2003, 02:01 PM
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I've never seen a truck pump, but I imagine its the same one thats in the LS1's (f-body and c5 are the same).

GM puts all C5 bolts in the top hole, and F-body ones seem to go in the bottom hole. I honestly don't know why this is, so there is a chance there is a reason behind it (differences in the pickup tube necessitate it?), who knows.

It sure is a lot easier to change oil pumps on C5's tho, since they use that top hole.
Old 11-21-2003, 02:20 PM
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ya I got the shim part down (well they aren't on yet b/c of this situation) but the shim part is easy at least.

I bet all castings on the LSx oil pumps are the same (mine looks exactly like the one in the picture) I think rotating the flange 180* would work. At least I really hope it would seal.
Old 11-21-2003, 03:03 PM
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Hey guys thanks for the replies! slyws6 is correct. GM has it keywayed so that you can't rotate the flange 180* I thought I could, until I looked again. Oh well good thing I have the day off I guess...it will probably take me that long lol.
Thanks again.
Ryan
Old 11-21-2003, 03:26 PM
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Originally Posted by jmX
I've never seen a truck pump, but I imagine its the same one thats in the LS1's (f-body and c5 are the same).

GM puts all C5 bolts in the top hole, and F-body ones seem to go in the bottom hole. I honestly don't know why this is, so there is a chance there is a reason behind it (differences in the pickup tube necessitate it?), who knows.

It sure is a lot easier to change oil pumps on C5's tho, since they use that top hole.
yep.....changing the oil pump on an F-body is a PITA
Old 11-21-2003, 03:30 PM
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Hey, thats good info to have....so the pickup tube is what determines what bolt hole you end up using. That sucks for F-body and truck guys. It is possible....I hope you have a 10mm gearwrench, it makes things a little easier.

Also, be SURE to stuff a towel in the oil pan. Once that bolt goes down into the baffled area its gonna take some good luck and a magnet on a fishing line to get it out (through the oil level sensor hole). NOT FUN.
Old 11-21-2003, 04:41 PM
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Pull the pump cover off. That's about 10 hex bolts. Remove the DRIVE and DRIVEN gears inside the pump. Note the the "DOT" on the gear faces outward during reassembly. Slide the pump onto the crank. Having the DRIVEN and DRIVE gears removed from the pump allows you to wiggle the pump around quite a bit giving you the extra movement you need to get the pickup tube started inside of the oil pump port. NEW "O" RING! Once the tube is inside the pump you can replace the gears and cover. Install the tube bolt. Be sure of the correct orientation of the shim that goes on the output port side of the pump or your oil pressure will be reduced.
Old 11-21-2003, 05:28 PM
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ah, the god damn oil pump pick up tube. i spent many a hour cussing and that damn thing :think: JMX is right, if you dont have a 10mm geared wrentch then go out and buy if not just for that one bolt. it makes it alot easier to do. and i hope you have the bolt secured with a string or something so that if you drop it, it doesnt fall into the pan. i dropped my countless times and the string saved it. beyond dropping the pan a bit, and having the bolt secured with a string and using a 10mm geared wrentch theres no much more we can tell you. the thing is just a bitch and ya gotta keep trying until you can get enough threads in to finger it in by hand then and the wrentch. good luck man.
Old 11-21-2003, 10:12 PM
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This was a good informative post I think. BTW my buddy with smaller hands came over and helped me out. We just finished buttoning everyting up. I definately got a new O-ring (that would suck to have to do that again!)
Things are running really smoothly! ....ah I like the '02 LS6 sound-nice and smooth versus my other cam.

Good post. Thanks again guys!
Ryan
Old 11-22-2003, 08:16 PM
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Thank God my g/f works on cars -- I cursed that stupid bolt for 20 minutes, DETERMINED to get it.. I finally got fed up, Tiff slid under the car and got it in about 15 ... seconds... So she's the oil pump swapper from now on, I realize when I'm out .. uhh.. manned
Old 11-22-2003, 08:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Brains
Thank God my g/f works on cars -- I cursed that stupid bolt for 20 minutes, DETERMINED to get it.. I finally got fed up, Tiff slid under the car and got it in about 15 ... seconds... So she's the oil pump swapper from now on, I realize when I'm out .. uhh.. manned
she owned you




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