Will this cam work?
#1
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Will this cam work?
Will this cam work?
The cam specs are 232/242 .595/.610 exhaust on a 115 lsa
It's a carb'd LS1 edelbrocke performer manifold, pro-form 750 race carb
Motor has
Scat Ls1 H-beam rods
ARP rod bolts
-2cc Diamond Flat top pistons
Diamond racing Pro Select Piston Rings
Clevite Connecting rod bearings
Stock 241 heads and stock valvetrain
This is going in a Panoz road race car, so it will live in the higher RPM range, car weights @2600lbs
will i NEED to upgrade the valve train first?
The cam specs are 232/242 .595/.610 exhaust on a 115 lsa
It's a carb'd LS1 edelbrocke performer manifold, pro-form 750 race carb
Motor has
Scat Ls1 H-beam rods
ARP rod bolts
-2cc Diamond Flat top pistons
Diamond racing Pro Select Piston Rings
Clevite Connecting rod bearings
Stock 241 heads and stock valvetrain
This is going in a Panoz road race car, so it will live in the higher RPM range, car weights @2600lbs
will i NEED to upgrade the valve train first?
#3
well, what RPM range are you gonna be running 90% of the time? Do you care if it has "peaky" power or do you want it smooth? I'd look into something like a 230/236 XFI lobed on something around 109+2
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i'd prefer to have a a smoother power range, it's never good to have "massive" power kick in all of a sudden in a race car!
the rpm range it will sit in is probably 3000-4000rpm
Rev limit set to 6300rpm
I plan to get new springs and replace the trunions on the rockers at some point anyway, as well as pushronds...
the rpm range it will sit in is probably 3000-4000rpm
Rev limit set to 6300rpm
I plan to get new springs and replace the trunions on the rockers at some point anyway, as well as pushronds...
#5
You def don't want a huge cam if most of your power will need to be around 3-4k...
Something like a 224/230 XFI lobed on 108lsa+2. You will need to check your PTV clearance for sure. You may have to flycut your pistons.
Something like a 224/230 XFI lobed on 108lsa+2. You will need to check your PTV clearance for sure. You may have to flycut your pistons.
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The pistons are already "flycut" by the -2cc indents
where I'll spend most of the time is @3-4k rpm's, but I'll still need good top end power for the fairly long straights i run on. power is probably more important on the straights than where i am spending most of my time
where I'll spend most of the time is @3-4k rpm's, but I'll still need good top end power for the fairly long straights i run on. power is probably more important on the straights than where i am spending most of my time
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#8
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Are there any class rules that you need to follow as far as heads and such go?
If you have the funds, an aftermarket set of heads like AFR's or even some 243's (LS6/2) with some CNC'ing and milling would really help as well.
With a nice cam and narrow LSA, its going to have a fair amount of overlap and bleed off dynamic compression where there isnt really that much of to begin with. Compression helps a lot.
If you have the funds, an aftermarket set of heads like AFR's or even some 243's (LS6/2) with some CNC'ing and milling would really help as well.
With a nice cam and narrow LSA, its going to have a fair amount of overlap and bleed off dynamic compression where there isnt really that much of to begin with. Compression helps a lot.
#9
Exactly. At a minimum, 243 stock castings and have them milled. If you're on a budget and can't find a set of 243's, see if you can talk with one of the sponsors about possibly exchanging yours for a set of their CNC heads + cash
and that cam should peak somewhere in the neighborhood of 6200 and still pull nicely up to 6500. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...
and that cam should peak somewhere in the neighborhood of 6200 and still pull nicely up to 6500. Someone correct me if I'm wrong...