Stroker motor owners inside
#1
Stroker motor owners inside
Looking for input on the reliabilty and people's setup on there stroker motor.Prefer 408 and bigger.
Would like engine specs including,Crank,Rods,Pistons,Cam specs,lifters,Head specs inc valve size.
Would be great if someone has before and after dyno sheets too so we can see the under curve gain
I think this thread could help alot of people looking into stroker kits
Would like engine specs including,Crank,Rods,Pistons,Cam specs,lifters,Head specs inc valve size.
Would be great if someone has before and after dyno sheets too so we can see the under curve gain
I think this thread could help alot of people looking into stroker kits
#3
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Looking for input on the reliabilty and people's setup on there stroker motor.Prefer 408 and bigger.
Would like engine specs including,Crank,Rods,Pistons,Cam specs,lifters,Head specs inc valve size.
Would be great if someone has before and after dyno sheets too so we can see the under curve gain
I think this thread could help alot of people looking into stroker kits
Would like engine specs including,Crank,Rods,Pistons,Cam specs,lifters,Head specs inc valve size.
Would be great if someone has before and after dyno sheets too so we can see the under curve gain
I think this thread could help alot of people looking into stroker kits
#4
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Originally Posted by Slowhawk
Looking for input on the reliabilty and people's setup on there stroker motor.Prefer 408 and bigger.
Would like engine specs including,Crank,Rods,Pistons,Cam specs,lifters,Head specs inc valve size.
Would be great if someone has before and after dyno sheets too so we can see the under curve gain
I think this thread could help alot of people looking into stroker kits
Would like engine specs including,Crank,Rods,Pistons,Cam specs,lifters,Head specs inc valve size.
Would be great if someone has before and after dyno sheets too so we can see the under curve gain
I think this thread could help alot of people looking into stroker kits
The motor has not been out of the car and it has probably seen 100+ 1/4 mile passes plus lots of solo track time. I have never been particularly easy on the motor and it has never skipped a beat. This car is a monster to drive and will easilly spin the tires at highway speeds+ I have done a top gear pull and was surprised to find my car will pull hard in 6th as well.
The turbo I had installed has caused numerous problems from it's poor design such as high back pressure issues, running too hot, exhaust leaks and broken plumbing and even that has not managed to hurt the motor itself. I have driven the car with this this motor in 100+ heat and -10+ cold it always starts the first crank and runns smoothly. I think that is a testament to just how tough these motors can be re-sleeved if they are done properly.
I am not going to argue engineering here but ny preference is for the proven (if done correctly) dry re-sleeving process over wet sleeves. My reasons are fairly simply, that there is lots of block material left in the dry sleeve that become an integral part of the strength of the block when finished. I have watched ARE resleeve a block and they are careful to retain material in the bores and weld any pinholes prior to inserting the sleeves. I have also seen ARE re-sleeve a damaged re-sleeved block using this same process and that engine is running just as strong and reliably as before. The wet-sleeve process concerns me, too much material has to be removed and the new sleeves infact become floating sleeves held in place only by the heads, there is no way to prevent movement and I think these sleeves could become a nightmare in a high horsepower application, strapping on a power adder IMHO would be courting disaster. I think over time the dry sleeve will prove to be stronger more reliable and resilant.
Paul
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Originally Posted by 5-liter-eater
those numbers seem low for a stroked turbo car?
Over the winter I am removing the kit and redesigning it as a full dual tuned header design that will allow the bigger motor to breathe. My goals are not earth shattering but I am looking for 675 rwhp and 750 rwtq with the new design.
Excellent question and I hope I answered it for you.
My intent by answering the original post was a question regarding the durability of super-strokers.
Paul
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Originally Posted by Warbird
Give that man a cigar . Yes they are down, however the problems I discussed with back pressure have severly limited my my flow and my ability to increase boost. With a properly tuned exhaust and intake to reduce pressure my HP numbers would jump signifigantly and flow would not be disrupted. I also have a wastegate installed that is rated at 500 fwhp max and the exhaust cannot bleed off. We have tuned the motor a number of times and have hit the wall on HP but I can still see bigger and bigger jumps in torque with more timing. Until I can fix the issues I have had the car tuned back to a very safe tune and those numbers are where it sits now.
Over the winter I am removing the kit and redesigning it as a full dual tuned header design that will allow the bigger motor to breathe. My goals are not earth shattering but I am looking for 675 rwhp and 750 rwtq with the new design.
Excellent question and I hope I answered it for you.
My intent by answering the original post was a question regarding the durability of super-strokers.
Paul
Over the winter I am removing the kit and redesigning it as a full dual tuned header design that will allow the bigger motor to breathe. My goals are not earth shattering but I am looking for 675 rwhp and 750 rwtq with the new design.
Excellent question and I hope I answered it for you.
My intent by answering the original post was a question regarding the durability of super-strokers.
Paul
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#10
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Originally Posted by Warbird
I have about 19,000 hard miles on my superstroker as of of now.
Paul
Paul
I got 20,000 on my 427 c5r blocked motor already.
Leo