change connecting rod bolts now or later?
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: King George, VA
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
change connecting rod bolts now or later?
I am about to start my build in the next couple of weeks. I was thinking, since I have the entire engine tore apart (besides the crank and pistons) should I go ahead and change the connecting rod bolts to ARP?
If so, which ARP bolt part number should I use?
(I found both on Ebay for pretty good deals)
FYI:
The bottome end is staying stock.
Thank you in advance
If so, which ARP bolt part number should I use?
(I found both on Ebay for pretty good deals)
FYI:
The bottome end is staying stock.
Thank you in advance
#4
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (35)
Yeah, I would never recommend just putting new bolts in and tightening to spec,, The stock rods are powdered metal split cap design, when you think about adding a new bolt and changing the load on the rod, there is a very good chance it will not be true. Alot of guys throw them in and go with no problems so they say, TO be safe, buy the bolts and take the rods to a reputable machine shop to be checked... I also have read many posts stating that stock rods can not be re-sized. May want to check into it.. Alot of arguments on this subject.
#6
I used Katech rodbolts on my ls1 with no complaints....all held great even number 7 bearing is perfect after shattering the rod and shoting it out the side of the block (hydrolocked)
#7
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
the Katech bolts are designed to be used without resizing rods, but i still wouldnt do it. besides, the OP already has the engine out of the car and totally tore down, so the Katech bolts wouldnt help because the rods and caps have already moved.
Last edited by bww3588; 05-05-2010 at 12:11 PM.
Trending Topics
#8
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: King George, VA
Posts: 69
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
So I should just keep the bottom end alone. Don't install bolts, copy that. I have another LS1 block completely bare for my next project down the road. That one I will be spending the money on.
I will just save my money and time for the other block I got.
I have heard other people just swapping the rod bolts with no problems. There is even a sticky on how to do it while the motor is in the car.
To keep from opening a can of worms, I will just leave the bottom end alone, it looks great anyways and install all the mods from my sig and hit the road. It will be a weekend car.
I will just save my money and time for the other block I got.
I have heard other people just swapping the rod bolts with no problems. There is even a sticky on how to do it while the motor is in the car.
To keep from opening a can of worms, I will just leave the bottom end alone, it looks great anyways and install all the mods from my sig and hit the road. It will be a weekend car.
#9
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 81 Likes
on
72 Posts
I think rod bolts are a worthwhile upgrade. However, there are obviously 2 schools of thought on this. I personally think the ARPs are fine as a swap and go, although they are not directly labeled for this. I really believe this is a legal issue to protect them from lawsuits. If one bolt can go in without being resized then so can another. I mean obviously ARP doesnt make junk bolts. I put mine in and they have been perfect, and I know others who have done so as well. But going to a good machine shop is never a bad idea.
#12
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (8)
[QUOTE=bww3588;13072832]i have been in many of thoes debates. the people who say they cant be resized dont realize they make oversized berings for that purpose. they think because the rod is cracked and uses the fracture to align the cap means it cant be ground down and resized. but when working with cracked rods, you dont grind the cap, just hone it out .010 and put a .010 oversized OD bearing in it. done. true rods.
the Katech bolts are designed to be used without resizing rods, but i still wouldnt do it. besides, the OP already has the engine out of the car and totally tore down, so the Katech bolts wouldnt help because the rods and caps have already moved.[/QUOTE]
I interpret from the original post that the crank, rods and pistons are still in the block?????
Personally if it was me the whole thing would come apart and get freshened up but I understand where the OP is coming from....
the Katech bolts are designed to be used without resizing rods, but i still wouldnt do it. besides, the OP already has the engine out of the car and totally tore down, so the Katech bolts wouldnt help because the rods and caps have already moved.[/QUOTE]
I interpret from the original post that the crank, rods and pistons are still in the block?????
Personally if it was me the whole thing would come apart and get freshened up but I understand where the OP is coming from....
#13
12 Second Club
iTrader: (49)
[QUOTE=SOMbitch;13075161] ahh, good call. reading comprehension>me.
i agree, no reason not to. he has already come this far, why not go all the way.
i have been in many of thoes debates. the people who say they cant be resized dont realize they make oversized berings for that purpose. they think because the rod is cracked and uses the fracture to align the cap means it cant be ground down and resized. but when working with cracked rods, you dont grind the cap, just hone it out .010 and put a .010 oversized OD bearing in it. done. true rods.
the Katech bolts are designed to be used without resizing rods, but i still wouldnt do it. besides, the OP already has the engine out of the car and totally tore down, so the Katech bolts wouldnt help because the rods and caps have already moved.[/QUOTE]
I interpret from the original post that the crank, rods and pistons are still in the block?????
Personally if it was me the whole thing would come apart and get freshened up but I understand where the OP is coming from....
the Katech bolts are designed to be used without resizing rods, but i still wouldnt do it. besides, the OP already has the engine out of the car and totally tore down, so the Katech bolts wouldnt help because the rods and caps have already moved.[/QUOTE]
I interpret from the original post that the crank, rods and pistons are still in the block?????
Personally if it was me the whole thing would come apart and get freshened up but I understand where the OP is coming from....
i agree, no reason not to. he has already come this far, why not go all the way.