camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

After I install the heads when the semester ends, I know I'll still not be 100% satisfied, nor will I ever be and with a fast 90/90 costing $1000+ for minimal gains if any, a bigger $390 cam seems the way to go. How much bigger would I have to go over my TR224 to get an additional 15-20rwhp? I would need to still stay under 6200rpm shiftpoints though.

A MS3 would be too big for a DD IMO, I was hoping a 228/230 .580/.580 113 or similar might be enough pr would I need a 112lsa to stay under 6200. Just curious for now, no purchasing plans yet. Thanks.

Damian

iTrader: (89)

You're not going to gain much with a 228/230 .580 cam over the TR224. Maybe a little peak but that's it.

Talk to Geoff @ Engine Power systems about a camshaft. He could easily cook something up that'll drive about the same as the 224, and make more power everywhere. - www.engpwrsys.com/

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

For the gains you want something in the low 230s .600 112 lsa or so would have to do... What kind of springs do you have? Already have oil pump and what not?

I wouldn't look into making more peak numbers, look to gain some nice numbers under the curve.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

From reading your sig you have an A4 if I am correct and realistically if your looking for numbers you really should have gone with an M6 instead.

Now have you taken her to the track and what have you run. Secondly what are your HP numbers right now.

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

I was just wondering if I had to go over 230 duration and less than 112lsa to gain 15-20rwhp, If I wanted a M6, do you think I would have gotten a $2000 probuilt tranny and $750 stall???

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

Thanks, I'll most likely stick with my TR224 for now if I have to get that much more agressive of a cam. In a few years, maybe I'll just swap in a LS3 into another f-body or something for a better starting point.

gruntwork

iTrader: (2)

With the SS3200 stall you have, keeping the TR224 is the way to go. From what I've seen, big cams look good on a dyno sheet but don't really materialize at the track unless you swap to a 4000+ stall. After the PRC stage 1's you should be doing fine on power.

BTW, cheaper little stuff adds up and helps like a FTRA and taking weight out of the car: Remove spare tire and jack, remove back seats, lighter battery, etc.

What do you dyno now btw?

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Why go bigger on a cam if you are staying at a 6200rpm shift point? At some point, you will have to spin more rpm to make more power. Until then, heads and then intake are your best bets to move the air needed to make power at or below 6200.

If you really think you'll never be satisfied with the power, and this your daily driver, you might want to re-evaluate how far you want to go with it. At some point, you risk chasing ever higher goals and continuing to pour money into your DD until it's temperamental, or fragile enough that you can't rely on it for a daily. That is a tough spot to be in for a college student.

Nitroused383

iTrader: (10)

HP is a function of torque and rpm. In order to gain hp you are going to have to create more torque at a higher rpm. Simple math really, there are other cams out there that will carry peak torque higher into the rpm range. The 224 cams are great for 6000ish rpm shift points, a bigger cam is going to be shifted 6500 rpm +.

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

I really do not care how much you spend on the tranny and stall hell they could help u revolve around Jupiter for all I care. But you are after numbers and really an A4 is made to perform. I am making 411/356 on a H/C NA. It's an Ed Curtis cam the AZPS02 custom grind. You still to answer what your current HP mark is and your 1/4 mile times. That will really make it easier for people to try and help you out and direct you in the right way.

orangeapeel

iTrader: (18)

Im guessing you have a bet with someone that you can be over X amount of horsepower? Sounds like another dick measuring thread in the making. I would have gotten a $2K transmission to rock the track...not the dyno.

Predator

The 224 is the Swiss army knife of cams. Think heads not a different cam.

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

I know M6's will have more power to the wheels, I'm not at all interested in that. I want more power and you were making it sould like it's stupid to try to make my A4 faster and I should get a M6.

As for the dyno numbers, I have my car at vettedoctors right now getting tuned. Based off of the last dyno and the parts I've added since then it should be 380rwhp and 370rwtq est.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

That is not was he was saying at all..

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

Not really a dick measuring thread, I am just going by the principle that more power to the wheels will be a faster car, thats all, I care about the track times and not the dyno numbers but that doesn't mean dyno numbers are totally useless.

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

Ok, I guess I took it the wrong way or he took what I'm trying to do the wrong way. Just to make it clear again, I don't want a numbers queen or a mount everest looking hp curve, I just want more rwhp.

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the info.

maxspeed96ct

iTrader: (3)

I went from a 220-224 112 with .537 lift

to a comp 232/234 112 with .598 lift
+ a 10% u.d. pulley, and a ported throttle body and gained 34 hp and 4 ft of tq, but the tq curve was also much longer..

So theres always room for improvment, in my case my first cam had a realy low lift...

02*C5

iTrader: (1)

Go with some TF 225 heads and wallah you are all there.

hammertime

iTrader: (1)

Assuming you have a similar ICL, you are closing the intake valve 6 degrees later and you added 11 degrees of overlap. For the sake of argument, where does your peak HP occur?