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Simple Question not so Simple Answer

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Old 06-22-2010, 11:09 AM
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I have a 1998 Z28, the car runs good, no smoke and still spins the tires. I have 236,000 miles on it and have always used Mobil1. It taps a little upon start up for about 5 ninets then is quiet and smooth.
I was thinking about doing some work to the engine before somthing bad happens. Local guy's want about $4,000 to rebuild it, too much money for me. Would it be senseable for me to lets say replace the Heads, Lifters and pushrods to get this engine back in shape? Or do I really need to replace everything, crank, cam pistons? I really want to keep the original motor, but I can get a decent used motor for a lot less than 4 grand. Some insight would be Great! Thanx to any responses.
Old 06-22-2010, 12:10 PM
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I would venture a guess of piston slap for the 5 minute cold start. IF that was the case, more than just the top end would need a freshening up.

I would just build a budget LQ9 or LQ4 depending on availability and future plans, or just go out and get another low mileage LS1. I would not waste $4K on rebuilding that old engine. You could just start off in another direction, or buy a used one depending on your goals/plans.
Old 06-22-2010, 12:20 PM
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Hate to say it, but the best way to tell is to tear it down and check for wear...biggest spot being the cylinder walls.
I've seen 300,000 mile engines with hardly any wear and I've seen 50,000 mile engines with grooves so bad they need to be bored out.

If you can get away with a cleanup hone one your block and repolish the crank I say go for it...Zbut its all just guessing until its all tore down and measured
Old 06-22-2010, 12:26 PM
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Originally Posted by mark21742
Hate to say it, but the best way to tell is to tear it down and check for wear...biggest spot being the cylinder walls.
I've seen 300,000 mile engines with hardly any wear and I've seen 50,000 mile engines with grooves so bad they need to be bored out.

If you can get away with a cleanup hone one your block and repolish the crank I say go for it...Zbut its all just guessing until its all tore down and measured
Doesn't seem like the kind of guy that would do that or know exactly what to look for.
Old 06-22-2010, 12:40 PM
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Considering you can get a brand new LS2 short block for $3400 from Texas Speed....

http://texas-speed.com/shop/item.asp...d=821&catid=83
Old 06-22-2010, 04:23 PM
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True, that's where the hard part comes in if he isn't doing it himself....finding someone he can truely trust and not rape him.

But on a side note. I got a hell o a deal on here in classifieds on my barly broke in forged 408 stroker
Old 06-22-2010, 06:15 PM
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OK so what I am hearing is the worst case would be piston slap. If the piston has damaged the cylinder wall then there would be some loss of compression correct? I really don't want to tear down the car because it is my daily driver. I am interested in doing some tests to get to the best decision that i can. any advise would be great. Thanx for all of your responses. And yes I am capable of doing all of the tear down and assembly myself. I cannot re-sleeve the block or do any boring, i don't have that type of equipment.
Old 06-22-2010, 08:46 PM
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you can get a new LS6 long block SDPC for $3500.
Old 06-22-2010, 09:15 PM
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Originally Posted by LS1121
OK so what I am hearing is the worst case would be piston slap. If the piston has damaged the cylinder wall then there would be some loss of compression correct? I really don't want to tear down the car because it is my daily driver. I am interested in doing some tests to get to the best decision that i can. any advise would be great. Thanx for all of your responses. And yes I am capable of doing all of the tear down and assembly myself. I cannot re-sleeve the block or do any boring, i don't have that type of equipment.
You are fine. You don't need to replace the crank and rods and pistons. What you should replace is bearings, rings, and bolts. It will require some machine work. Bore honing and align hone the mains at a minimum. you just want to ensure everything is still straight before assembly.




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