Do I HAVE to retune for a cam swap
#1
Staging Lane
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Do I HAVE to retune for a cam swap
I was selling my car and took it in to have it looked over due to I heard a ticking sound. The gentleman at the hobby shop on base said i probably have a lifter going bad. I have good oil pressure 55 psi at idle but the ticking is def there. I didnt have time or the money to tear into it Saturday. I currently have a T-Rex cam and im wanting to know if I go to a more mild cam do i need to get the car re-tuned. Also if anyone is reading this I plan on using LS7 lifters if so do I need to get different length pushrods or just put a new set of LS1 lifters back in it.
Thanks for any replies and advice.
Thanks for any replies and advice.
#6
I too had a lifter go bad on my Z06 last month. Loud ticking wouldnt go away. Anyhow i would suggest the LS7 lifters since you can find them for about the same price of LS1/LS6 lifters. Also u might as well just get you some ARP head bolts. I took mine to a shop for the repairs due to my busy schedule but if your mechanically inclined i suggest u do the work yourself. Shops dont charge cheap for labor on head removal.
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#8
Staging Lane
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If that lifter is just starting to tick that doesnt automatically mean my cam is ruined? Im an aviation mechanic by trade have been for 15 years so I can turn wrenches ive just never really gotten into this type of wrenching before. If i have a manual i should be fine. I was just gonna go ahead and order a new t-rex cam so i didnt have to retune i guess. So I do have to get new pushrods with the LS7 LIFTERS. This project just got a lot more expensive and time consuming.
#9
Yep you will definetly need a retune if you swap cams, but if you catch the failing lifter early enough u should be able to replace just the lifters, and hopefully no damage has been done to your current cam.
#10
If that lifter is just starting to tick that doesnt automatically mean my cam is ruined? Im an aviation mechanic by trade have been for 15 years so I can turn wrenches ive just never really gotten into this type of wrenching before. If i have a manual i should be fine. I was just gonna go ahead and order a new t-rex cam so i didnt have to retune i guess. So I do have to get new pushrods with the LS7 LIFTERS. This project just got a lot more expensive and time consuming.
#11
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LS1balt I do currently have 7.4 pushrods. Also do i have to remove the cam to insoect the lobes or can i do it with the cam in the car with the lifters removed. I have access to some very nice video borescope equipment to get into tight spaces. Im just looking for anything to save time and money here. The ticking im hearing is very very light you cannot hear it at idle at all. Im not sure how much extra work is invloved with removing the cam but if I dont have to that would be great. Also thank you Sir for the help im pretty darn lost at this point
#12
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To be honest the lifter may be getting older but not even bad. I am still using the LS1 lifters with my .588 lift and they tick non-stop. I am going to a different cam and LS7 lifters to get rid of it but a shorter pushrod will be needed. The LS7 lifters are .050" taller in the cup.
Your camshaft is most likely just fine. Especially if the ticking just started and doesn't do it at idle. Swapping to LS7 lifters will require new pushrods.
You can also stay within a couple degrees of duration and not worry about a tune too much as long as it's a smaller cam. You will just be running rich.
Your camshaft is most likely just fine. Especially if the ticking just started and doesn't do it at idle. Swapping to LS7 lifters will require new pushrods.
You can also stay within a couple degrees of duration and not worry about a tune too much as long as it's a smaller cam. You will just be running rich.
#14
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DaveX Yes Sir Im aware that I have to pull the heads man this is gonna be alot of work. Who do you guys buy your head gaskets and bolt and stuff from. I guess ill need to order some shorter pushrods also there goes another 130.00 or so. thanka again for any input...