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Old 02-17-2004, 03:25 PM
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Default Those who built/had motors built...

I have a 2002 LS6 block with ~3800 miles on it, and wanna do a Forged SB. What machine work is likely to need to be done?

I know it will need to:

1. Be honed to 3.905
2. True head surface

I will be reusing the stock crank, but with all new bearings, will the crank need to be turned, or just polished? Cam bearings should be ok and an align hone shouldn't be necessary, right? How much did you pay to have rotating assembly balanced? Anything else I am overlooking, I'm trying to plan this out and set a budget that I can stick to (unlike in the past, lol).

Things I have/need:

pistons, rings, rods
rod and main bearings
gaskets, seals (all new)
ARP head studs
Are ARP main studs necessary/worthwhile?

Thanks, Shawn
Old 02-17-2004, 03:41 PM
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With only 3800 miles on the block, I wouldn't bother going to 3.905 unless the bore showed scuffing. I would do a light hone and be done with it. Same goes for the crank. If there is no visible marks or damage then just have it micro polished.
Old 02-17-2004, 03:56 PM
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Well, I have to order my pistons 3-4 weeks in advance, so I'd rather be safe and go ahead and have the block honed out a little than order the pistons and hope the block ends up not needing anything...
Old 02-17-2004, 04:01 PM
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Well if your going to have forged pistons im almost sure you HAVE to have the block honed to accept the slightly larger pistons. I would get your crank checked out too while the motor is apart.
Old 02-17-2004, 04:11 PM
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I bored out a brand new 2001 LS6 crate block to 3.905 for my pistons.

Figure $200-300 to hone the block and $200-350 to balance the rotating assembly.
Old 02-17-2004, 04:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
I bored out a brand new 2001 LS6 crate block to 3.905 for my pistons.

Figure $200-300 to hone the block and $200-350 to balance the rotating assembly.
Who did your machine work, somebody local? Thanks, Shawn
Old 02-17-2004, 04:41 PM
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Originally Posted by SPANKY LS1
Who did your machine work, somebody local? Thanks, Shawn
Project RED DOGG
348ci 9:1 LS6 by Speed Inc.
FAST ECU by Cartek
Vortech YS Trim by SS Racing
Air to Air Intercooler by Griffin
Headers and X Pipe by Kooks
746rwhp, Unlocked T400


I think Speed Inc has the same shop who makes RGR heads build their motors. They are building my forged 348 11:1 LS6.
Old 02-17-2004, 04:43 PM
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I didn't think Speed INC had a machine shop. I thought that they sourced/built the motor. (?)

Shawn
Old 02-17-2004, 04:50 PM
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Originally Posted by SPANKY LS1
I have a 2002 LS6 block with ~3800 miles on it, and wanna do a Forged SB. What machine work is likely to need to be done?

I know it will need to:

1. Be honed to 3.905
2. True head surface

I will be reusing the stock crank, but with all new bearings, will the crank need to be turned, or just polished? Cam bearings should be ok and an align hone shouldn't be necessary, right? How much did you pay to have rotating assembly balanced? Anything else I am overlooking, I'm trying to plan this out and set a budget that I can stick to (unlike in the past, lol).

Things I have/need:

pistons, rings, rods
rod and main bearings
gaskets, seals (all new)
ARP head studs
Are ARP main studs necessary/worthwhile?

Thanks, Shawn
Any time I have a block down, or a new one to build, I go over every hole, bore, height and measurement I can just to know what I've got if for nothing else than to have a reference for later work. I'd have the machinist check the main alignment/fit with the new crank and look at the numbers before deciding on the align hone. For that matter, if you can get them to give the deck height while they're at it, why not. Since it's somewhat "cured" whatever is going to move probably has. Whatever you end up deciding, get all the numbers you can from them.

On the ARP main studs, I replace any Torque-to-yield bolts I can, so I'd vote yes.
Old 02-17-2004, 07:05 PM
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Spanky,

I think with all the work it takes to build a forged SB the right way might as well step up and go for the stroker.

The only items you'll need for the stroker in additon to what's already listed are crank & rods. Eagle crank $850 & Crower rods ~$400 to $450. Since your already having to have the block machined and the rotating assembly balanced it's almost the perfect time to do it. Likewise, with APE have $1200 Callies cranks that might be an option to consider.

Speed Inc has a 348 ~$2799 short block for sale

http://www.ls1speed.com/engine9.cfm

and a 382 $4599 stroker short block.

http://www.ls1speed.com/engine15.cfm

Good luck with the project either way.
Old 02-17-2004, 07:20 PM
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IMO, you really should not have the hone done until you have the pistons in-hand. This way you can mic the piston diameter and hone precisely for the diameter. Most pistons call for about .004-.006 piston to wall clearance. To assume bore size in advance could lead to some mis-fitted parts.
Old 02-17-2004, 08:40 PM
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Todd,
With todays pistons manufacturing standards you dont need the pistons for a final hone. We havent had a problem in the 6 years our engine builder has been building ls1's.
Old 02-17-2004, 08:52 PM
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Engine builder here.....Todd, Brian is right. With today's piston quality you can hone your block before you have the pistons. Piston manufacturers such as Diamond, JE, Cp and so on hold piston tolerances within a couple tenths. Back about 5-10 years ago you used to have to have the pistons in hand to fit the block right. Just thought I would shed some light.

Thanks

BTW, we have our cheap street short blocks for $2799.00. I can have them ready in 3 weeks.

Also we have the "ready to go" blocks for $1200.00, core included!!

Last edited by Chris@AP-Engineering; 02-17-2004 at 08:58 PM.




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