CAM/HEADS Build, Want to do it right the first time
#1
CAM/HEADS Build, Want to do it right the first time
Ok guys, I know you get this questions daily but this is my first time doing anything internal on any car, so I want to do it perfect and with a budget (as much as possible)
Ok so my goals are a perfect real DD with good amount of power,,this car is driven every day of the week so I need the best setup for it with a nice kick to it, So need a good DD cam and since Im in a budget P&P stock 241 heads or aftermarket? I need a list of things to buy, I know i need the cam obiously, but what else do I need? im going to do lifters since that was my main purpose of removing the heads so LS7 lifters? let me know all your knowledge
Car is a 2001 z28 A4 109k miles with what i believe a stock Stall and headers, qtp y pipe and magnaflow exhaust, lid and k&n filter as well as other things like a tranny cooler (installed my previous owner) ectt let me know what other info you might need thanks in advance
Ok so my goals are a perfect real DD with good amount of power,,this car is driven every day of the week so I need the best setup for it with a nice kick to it, So need a good DD cam and since Im in a budget P&P stock 241 heads or aftermarket? I need a list of things to buy, I know i need the cam obiously, but what else do I need? im going to do lifters since that was my main purpose of removing the heads so LS7 lifters? let me know all your knowledge
Car is a 2001 z28 A4 109k miles with what i believe a stock Stall and headers, qtp y pipe and magnaflow exhaust, lid and k&n filter as well as other things like a tranny cooler (installed my previous owner) ectt let me know what other info you might need thanks in advance
#2
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well i would pick the heads first them match the cam to the heads. then after that i would get a stall that would match the cam the best. you already have a ls6 intake so i would just p&p the tb and get a ud pulley
heads(your choice)
cam(to match the heads)
stall(to match the cam)
lifters
springs
h/c gasket kit
ud pulley
belts for the ud pulley(not sure the part #'s right now)
heads(your choice)
cam(to match the heads)
stall(to match the cam)
lifters
springs
h/c gasket kit
ud pulley
belts for the ud pulley(not sure the part #'s right now)
#3
TECH Addict
iTrader: (2)
If you want to get it right the first time, don't pick parts, pick a supplier. Get with one of the sponsoring suppliers (Vengeance Racing, Texas Speed, Thunder Racing, etc.) and work with them on a package that fits your needs. That way you don't wind up with a pile of great components that do not work together.
#5
I totally agree with Darkman about picking a supplier not parts if you are going for new parts. However, if you are on a budget and will go with some used parts, you will have to check for each part before getting it.
Your budget will determine what parts you should go for at the time being.
Start with the headers, UD pulley, cam kit (pushrods, lifters, springs, timing chain), ported intake, ported throttle body, ported and milled heads, 3.73 gear ratio. This will put you in the 400+ rwhp range with a mild cam that fits a daily driven car.
Your budget will determine what parts you should go for at the time being.
Start with the headers, UD pulley, cam kit (pushrods, lifters, springs, timing chain), ported intake, ported throttle body, ported and milled heads, 3.73 gear ratio. This will put you in the 400+ rwhp range with a mild cam that fits a daily driven car.
#7
If you followed my other thread u coul've seen that SSspdmn recommended this ca cam for DD input on this:
" Most grinds usually come from Comp Cams. I think that's where TSP sources that cam from. Personally, I've never had a problem with any of their product. So, I'd recommend them for sure. As for the specs, the higher lsa will define the "peakish" nature of the cam IIRC. I would still recommend the 112 in this case. Also,given you'rerunning full exhaust, I'd still suggest going with the longer duration on the exhaust lobes. 224/228 .581/.588 112LSA is a very common cam. I'm sure you could find several people on here who would be willing to give you some input on their experiences with it"
" Most grinds usually come from Comp Cams. I think that's where TSP sources that cam from. Personally, I've never had a problem with any of their product. So, I'd recommend them for sure. As for the specs, the higher lsa will define the "peakish" nature of the cam IIRC. I would still recommend the 112 in this case. Also,given you'rerunning full exhaust, I'd still suggest going with the longer duration on the exhaust lobes. 224/228 .581/.588 112LSA is a very common cam. I'm sure you could find several people on here who would be willing to give you some input on their experiences with it"
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#11
EPS, Thunder Racing, Texas Speed, Cam Motion, Futral, and Comp Cams are all good vendors for cams. Check out their websites.
I don't recommend porting the heads by yourself. Give them to someone with experience in porting and polishing. How much to mill the heads will depend on your cam choice but I think that 64cc (0.020 milled) will give you good static (~10.5:1) and dynamic compression with a small cam for a daily driven car.
I don't recommend porting the heads by yourself. Give them to someone with experience in porting and polishing. How much to mill the heads will depend on your cam choice but I think that 64cc (0.020 milled) will give you good static (~10.5:1) and dynamic compression with a small cam for a daily driven car.
#12
10 Second Club
iTrader: (27)
there is a a newer lifter that is quiter than the LS7 lifter made by Comp cams, wanna say comp r high performance lifter is the way you neeed to go. I had the LS7 lifters and they were actually noisy.
IIwould go with a set o ported 243 LS6 heads over the 241 heads. they flow little bit better. plus you an mill the heads .030 and get a 59 cc chamber to raise the compression a little bit.
It would be goodto contact a sponser like Ron @ vengeance racing and tell him what your goals and he can hel you a lot .
IIwould go with a set o ported 243 LS6 heads over the 241 heads. they flow little bit better. plus you an mill the heads .030 and get a 59 cc chamber to raise the compression a little bit.
It would be goodto contact a sponser like Ron @ vengeance racing and tell him what your goals and he can hel you a lot .
#14
On The Tree
iTrader: (10)
If you are on a budget, do not pick a supplier and buy the parts new (wallet rape).
Do lots of research and when you think you've researched enough, do more. Buy the parts off the parts classified here (it will take time to find the right parts for the right prices) and have it all installed at one time by a reputable shop (the parts you can't install yourself anyways). Make sure the shop can tune as you will probably not want to or be able to drive it once the work is done without a tune.
The stock lifters are fine with the trunion upgrade, by the way.
The more research you do, the better understanding of what you need to do to meet your goals you will have. You will probably change your mind on parts quite a bit as you discover what setups work well and those that don't which will save you from spending money on a disappointment.
As for the list:
Heads (Best= AFR/TFS, Bang for buck = PRC)
Cam = (check dyno graphs and ppl's experiences, but personally I'd recommend a 226/230) (for the LSA 111=choppy idle, 112=less choppy, 113=mild idle, 114=stock like idle)
Springs = rated for the amount of lift your cam of choice has (patriots, PAC, comp)
Intake = keep the LS6
Stall = will not help your HP numbers but will make the car much faster on the track, I'd recommend a 3200-3600 for a DD. For reference a 3600 stall will make you turn about 500+ more rpms at 60mph than you do now. Less for the lower numbered stalls.
And just so you know, once you do this, the clock on your transmission and rear end will start to tick even faster. Price to replace transmission and rear end with units that will handle the power = approx. $4500 (on the LOW end, for the budget pieces)
Do lots of research and when you think you've researched enough, do more. Buy the parts off the parts classified here (it will take time to find the right parts for the right prices) and have it all installed at one time by a reputable shop (the parts you can't install yourself anyways). Make sure the shop can tune as you will probably not want to or be able to drive it once the work is done without a tune.
The stock lifters are fine with the trunion upgrade, by the way.
The more research you do, the better understanding of what you need to do to meet your goals you will have. You will probably change your mind on parts quite a bit as you discover what setups work well and those that don't which will save you from spending money on a disappointment.
As for the list:
Heads (Best= AFR/TFS, Bang for buck = PRC)
Cam = (check dyno graphs and ppl's experiences, but personally I'd recommend a 226/230) (for the LSA 111=choppy idle, 112=less choppy, 113=mild idle, 114=stock like idle)
Springs = rated for the amount of lift your cam of choice has (patriots, PAC, comp)
Intake = keep the LS6
Stall = will not help your HP numbers but will make the car much faster on the track, I'd recommend a 3200-3600 for a DD. For reference a 3600 stall will make you turn about 500+ more rpms at 60mph than you do now. Less for the lower numbered stalls.
And just so you know, once you do this, the clock on your transmission and rear end will start to tick even faster. Price to replace transmission and rear end with units that will handle the power = approx. $4500 (on the LOW end, for the budget pieces)
#18
TECH Addict
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I have 115K miles on my stock lifters, with 50K miles on it with H/C/I/E/nitrous. They can hold good if valvetrain setup properly.
I would not go for a chase after any used parts forever; I'd rather pay a bit more to have a brand new top end and vavetrain. If you cant pay, dont play..Trying to save too much is gonna cost you more in the end sometimes.
I would not go for a chase after any used parts forever; I'd rather pay a bit more to have a brand new top end and vavetrain. If you cant pay, dont play..Trying to save too much is gonna cost you more in the end sometimes.
#19
On The Tree
iTrader: (10)
Almost all the parts I bought were used and instead of spending upwards of $8,000, I only spent about $5,000. And the kicker? all the parts were in good working condition with most having under 2,000 miles of use. So, pay to play, or wait and pay less.
P.S. It did take me like 5 months to find all the parts though.
And many 600hp+ cars are running stock rockers...
P.S. It did take me like 5 months to find all the parts though.
And many 600hp+ cars are running stock rockers...
#20
Send your 241's to AI (Advanced Induction) they're port programs on 241s can blow some peoples 243s out of the water...
spend the 25 bucks for a custom grind cam (pat g) or do some research and see what most people are doing for a milder setup (dd).
my cam reccomendations would be something around a 224, 228, or 230 (el torro).
throw in the pushrods, matching springs (a milder cam doesnt require crazy springs, and will last longer), better oil pump, timing chain (ls2). you already have the ls6 intake...
also get you some ebay longtube headers, cheap and easy...
tune!!!
should set you a nice combo that puts down 430rwhp, drives nice in the city, and does about the same gas mileage (foot dependant)
spend the 25 bucks for a custom grind cam (pat g) or do some research and see what most people are doing for a milder setup (dd).
my cam reccomendations would be something around a 224, 228, or 230 (el torro).
throw in the pushrods, matching springs (a milder cam doesnt require crazy springs, and will last longer), better oil pump, timing chain (ls2). you already have the ls6 intake...
also get you some ebay longtube headers, cheap and easy...
tune!!!
should set you a nice combo that puts down 430rwhp, drives nice in the city, and does about the same gas mileage (foot dependant)