Bigredmachine

iTrader: (2)

So Basically when I tore down my engine I found damage to the crank and upon further inspection noticed the crank had already been repaired once and cut .010. I really dont want to cut it any further, so I am looking at rotating assemblies.

I cannot afford a forged setup, but thats all I can seem to find. Does anyone know of any reasonably priced kits or a cast kit(stock material). I would like to do a 383 stroker but if possible not go forged. Please lemme know if theres any options out there. I dont have a ton of cash to spend, but am open to suggestion. Thank you

Mr. Sir

http://www.ohiocrank.com/chevyls_cranks.html
or
http://eagle.carshopinc.com/product_...3/434640006100

Haven't heard anything bad about Ohio Crankshaft, but haven't really heard much about them. from the few people that had something to say, the comments were positive.
Never heard anything about car shop inc, perhaps others can give you an opinion on them.

IMO a 383, while it will make more power than an equivalent 346, usually doesn't end up being worth the investment. With a new crank, you need new rods as well. Unless you have money to spare (which you don't), and already have good H/C/I (which you might), I'd suggest a stock crank. look through the classifieds, cost ranges from $175-$400.

Bigredmachine

iTrader: (2)

Well My plans were to do 243 ported heads and a 233/239 112lsa cam and already have stock intake. I think my best bet is to find a used crank like you said and get it checked at the machine shop.

These stock bottom ends hold together quite well with some decent power thrown at them, which is why I thought it was a waste to do a forged crank..

sepsis

iTrader: (7)

It's not a waste to do a forged crank, you just don't want to spend the cash.

Mr. Sir

When I hear forged crank, I automatically think of serious drag oriented FI engines, because I can't think of any NA LS engines making more power thank the stock crank can handle. The stock crank is cast iron and can handle 1000fwhp, so a cheap aftermarket cast iron/steel crank could make a nice low budget 383 possible. Unfortunately, while the potential market seems profitable, they currently don't exist.

RezinTexas

I got a crank from a 5.3 LM7 in excellent condition I'll sell for cheap.

allna6

iTrader: (19)

You might be able to have the crank journal welded and reground within spec

Bigredmachine

iTrader: (2)

the problem with getting it welded is that it was already done. I just bought this car last March and just recently when it blew the head gasket I decided to pull the engine and tear it down due to the mileage(wanted to check wear items 120,xxx miles). When I pulled this all apart I noticed some scarring on the bob weight and then looked at the rod journal and saw some pitting and what not. Looks like the #1 rod broke previously and they welded the scarred areas on the rod journal then cut it .010. Since all this was already done, I really dont wanna have this crank even touched at this point. Its basically scrap as far as im concerned..

Sepsis: I didnt mean its a waste to get a forged crank. What I meant was that it was totally unneccessary in my situation ie:a 425-440rwhp setup. Good reassurance but not neccessary, and yeah I dont have the cash to spend on that when my initial intention was to do a heads and cam setup and a basic refresh of the bottom end.

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

bigred, exactly what engine are we talking about?

Bigredmachine

iTrader: (2)

Paul Bell: I don't follow. Ls1. Your obviouly being sarcastic. I just don't get why

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

No sir. You hadn't told us what engine or car this crank was for-and you have no signature.

As this is the generation III engine section, it could be several different engines.

You can get a brand new GM crank with the correct 24x reluctor ring from GM. It's part number 89017522. Bearings included. This is the original stock LS1 crankshaft.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I don't think anyone makes a cast stroker crank for the LSx engines yet. Callie's had their LSc 5140 forged cranks, which were cheaper, but as far as I know they discontinued.

Basically, you're stock with the stock crank.

remauto1187

iTrader: (1)

Just goto your local auto parts store (not NAPA) and ask for a 2001 camaro/corvette crankshaft. They run around $300 here (remanufactured) 10 over on the rods and mains assuming you want to get OEM stroke. Ive never ran into anyone with cast aftermarket cranks for your setup. I understand where you are coming from i am building a 5.7l out of a 5.3l and just like you do not see the need for the extra cost of a forged setup (including pistons) for my car/truck.

Cape T/A

^ sounds like the budget way to go.

Just track down a stock crank and be done with it.

Bigredmachine

iTrader: (2)

Sorry Paul. I'm just used to the smart asses and punks on here and thought you were trying to break my *****. Glad your not tho. Lol. I never thought to check the local parts stores. And I work for a GM dealer and could go through them but a stock brand new crank from gm would cost probably as much as a forged aftermarket

bww3588

iTrader: (49)

the 89017522 on GMpartsdirect is 539 bucks + shippng, which isint bad considering it comes with 150 bucks worth of bearings.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

Also consider a 6.0 shortblock.
Or a 6.0 build instead of an ls1. Price to rebuild either is same range. Might as well take the ci capacity and 4in bore

Paul Bell

iTrader: (9)

No prob bro, I just wanted to be accurate and that starts with complete info.

If you work at a GM dealership, I'll bet the parts department could do better than the $540.00 the rest of us would need to pony up. And, from my experience, GM parts counter guys like us hot rodders as they're usually hot rodders also.

The next cheapest new crank I can find is a forged unit from Eagle at Summit for $765.00 and they appear to NOT come with bearings.

For your stock build, the GM crank may be the most inexpensive way to go for a brand new un-molested crank.

Good luck with the project and keep us updated.

remauto1187

iTrader: (1)

Hardly the same considering he already has the 5.7l block and does not have a 6.0l block.

Isnt it always amazing how many guys there are with 6.0l on the brain when you can make a very nice amount of power out of a 5.7l. Its very easy to "spend" someone else's money.

6.0l does not equal budget.....checked prices on a junkyard setup lately?

KCS

iTrader: (20)

Last one I bought was $250.

Going to a 6.0L is not a bad idea when you're looking at spending $550 on a crank alone. You can get an entire 6.0L shortblock for that much, and still have the LS1 block to sell to offset the costs.