Loud lifter tick after LQ4 build - need help!
02-19-2012, 10:42 PM
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Loud lifter tick after LQ4 build - need help! I just spent the weekend installing an LQ4 into my 01 Silverado. Specs - local engine shop assembled LQ4 .030 over with new bearings, new LS6 cam, new pistons and rings. Ported (not milled) 241 heads, new yellow springs, reman rockers, new Manley 7.400 pushrods, new LS6 oil pump.
After getting the motor in the truck ran pretty well on the 5.3l computer program (Wait4me). Switched to a 6.0 computer and did a CASE relearn via HP tuners.
Motor was smooth and strong until getting up to temp and then started to stumble and hunt when off throttle for idle, and developed a loud lifter tick on the driver's side. Tick would disappear after sitting awhile or upon prolonged idle. Went ahead and replaced all the driver's side lifters with new Melling units, and the same thing occurred - ran fine until engine came up to temp. Searched and found this thread - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...preload-9.html - which seems to point towards either improper lifter preload/pushrod length or bad oil pickup O-ring. O-ring was brand new and carefully installed. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm pretty discouraged right now. Thanks in advance
After getting the motor in the truck ran pretty well on the 5.3l computer program (Wait4me). Switched to a 6.0 computer and did a CASE relearn via HP tuners.
Motor was smooth and strong until getting up to temp and then started to stumble and hunt when off throttle for idle, and developed a loud lifter tick on the driver's side. Tick would disappear after sitting awhile or upon prolonged idle. Went ahead and replaced all the driver's side lifters with new Melling units, and the same thing occurred - ran fine until engine came up to temp. Searched and found this thread - https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...preload-9.html - which seems to point towards either improper lifter preload/pushrod length or bad oil pickup O-ring. O-ring was brand new and carefully installed. Does anyone have any other suggestions? I'm pretty discouraged right now. Thanks in advance
02-20-2012, 12:39 AM
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Was it the right size pick-up o-ring? This is the exact reason why I don't
let anyone touch my stuff.....aside from machine work, and they screw that up too!
let anyone touch my stuff.....aside from machine work, and they screw that up too!
Last edited by mcfarlnd; 02-20-2012 at 12:48 AM.
02-20-2012, 07:14 AM
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I dressed the shortblock myself. Used a new thick green O-ring. Oil pressure is 40psi idle hot or cold and climbs to about 60 psi. It does not seem to climb immediately to revs. This is a new LS6 oil pump. The ticking is definitely a single lifter on the driver's side. No codes being thrown at all.
02-20-2012, 07:29 AM
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BTW I used the O-ring that came with the Felpro oil pan gasket set. It came with a green (thickest), red and black O-rings. I used the thickest and it was a very tight fit. I did not use a factory GM O-ring and now I am wondering if that is my problem
02-20-2012, 07:43 AM
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well I read this as well:
I am using unmilled 241 heads with a 04/05 (late) LS6 cam. It would indicate that the smaller base circle with a LS1 style valve would require a 7.450 pushrod to compensate for the smaller base circle. Maybe the combination of insufficient lifter pre-load with slightly suboptimal oiling to lifter #7 would lead to a constant #7 tick. Hmmm....
copied from thunder racing:
LS6 Camshaft - 204/218 .551/.541 117.5 LSA Please note that this cam has approximately a 0.050" smaller base circle than a stock LS1 camshaft. This smaller base circle will require longer pushrods for applications with stock length valves and no milling for the head surface.
LS6 Camshaft - 204/218 .551/.541 117.5 LSA Please note that this cam has approximately a 0.050" smaller base circle than a stock LS1 camshaft. This smaller base circle will require longer pushrods for applications with stock length valves and no milling for the head surface.
02-21-2012, 09:07 AM
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Well I changed out the 7.400 pushrods to new 7.450 pushrods this morning. Idle is smoother and throttle response is more crisp. However the lifter tick on the driver's side returned after running it on the highway. Whereas before the noise was a "clack" it is now a "tick". Not horrible but much more than just a sewing machine noise. The rest of the valve train is dead silent. It is clearly a single lifter noise. This driver's side bank now has had 2 sets of lifters in it, 7.4 and 7.45 pushrods and the noise persists.
The oil pressure is 40 at idle hot or cold, and 60 upon revs. I can't imagine the O-ring is bad I am now thinking it may be some kind of debris plugging up one of the lifter oil galleys? I am at a loss
The oil pressure is 40 at idle hot or cold, and 60 upon revs. I can't imagine the O-ring is bad I am now thinking it may be some kind of debris plugging up one of the lifter oil galleys? I am at a loss
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02-22-2012, 10:58 AM
#9
Wow. I'm going through the same issue right now, but that is way louder than what I'm dealing with.
I watched a video last night where there was a lifter clack like that and the guy sprayed some carb cleaner down the pushrod oil passage into the lifter to clean out what he believed to be a a piece of debris.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=4RecrxxLT4s
Listen at about 0:10 to the before and around 13:40 to the after.
I have dropped the pan on mine to confirm the green o-ring is in good shape. I am going to confirm correct pushrod length this weekend.
I watched a video last night where there was a lifter clack like that and the guy sprayed some carb cleaner down the pushrod oil passage into the lifter to clean out what he believed to be a a piece of debris.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=4RecrxxLT4s
Listen at about 0:10 to the before and around 13:40 to the after.
I have dropped the pan on mine to confirm the green o-ring is in good shape. I am going to confirm correct pushrod length this weekend.
02-22-2012, 11:04 AM
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funny I watched the same video. The maddening part is the noise goes away when the motor has sat for awhile and sometime when it just sits there idling for awhile. I was breaking in the motor using 15w40 Rotella and just did the first change this morning to a split of 0w40 and 5w30 Mobil 1. The noise went away for now but I only drove it 5 miles to work. I am going to drive it a bit harder after work to see if the noise returns. Right now I have very little faith that the issue has been resolved.
02-23-2012, 09:53 AM
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yes looks like an aluminum foil wrapped gasket. I honestly don't think there is a leak. Plus the noise only comes after spirited driving. Just cruising to work the noise is completely gone and the engine feels super smooth. When the noise comes it almost feels like a slight miss/dead cylinder. Damned lifter is kicking my ***.
02-23-2012, 11:10 PM
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sounds like you have some trash stuck in an oil journal.
go get another lifter, spray some brake cleaner down the pushrod, then use compressed air with a rubber tip to blow it out, then put the pushrod on the old lifter while its in the engine and do the same thing again. maybe a couple times. while you are in there you might want to compress the spring and turn the valve half around for good measure.
put the new lifter in and put it all back together.
sounds crazy but try it.
given that you have narrowed it down to one lifter that is.
edit: while the lifter is out use a long blower in the hole from all angles.
go get another lifter, spray some brake cleaner down the pushrod, then use compressed air with a rubber tip to blow it out, then put the pushrod on the old lifter while its in the engine and do the same thing again. maybe a couple times. while you are in there you might want to compress the spring and turn the valve half around for good measure.
put the new lifter in and put it all back together.
sounds crazy but try it.
given that you have narrowed it down to one lifter that is.
edit: while the lifter is out use a long blower in the hole from all angles.
02-24-2012, 09:32 AM
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Get yourself a small piece of wood to use as a stethoscope or buy a cheap one to pin point the exact location. Check around the valve cover and around the the intake port and exhaust/ header area. You can pin point the valve intake or exhaust that may be missbehaving. Get yourself a cheap laser thermometer and check for abnormalities in the exhaust temperature of each port.