My P to V clearance....Boo!
04-11-2012, 01:16 AM
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My P to V clearance....Boo! i checked my P to V clearence tonight using the clay method.Here are the results....
My cam is a comp cam 224/230 .592 .598 114+2.
Using GM MLS gasket
patriot stage 2 heads milled to 59cc
What do you guys think...(couldnt measure since i couldnt find my tool)
any suggestions/opinions are welcomed...Thanks
My cam is a comp cam 224/230 .592 .598 114+2.
Using GM MLS gasket
patriot stage 2 heads milled to 59cc
What do you guys think...(couldnt measure since i couldnt find my tool)
any suggestions/opinions are welcomed...Thanks
04-11-2012, 09:47 AM
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No sir,would that make a diffrence? The guy at the local machine shop that the springs I currently have on ny heads will work.
I used this site http:// http://www.racingheadservice...eClearance.asp
I used this site http:// http://www.racingheadservice...eClearance.asp
04-11-2012, 10:47 AM
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Are you running a solid roller? If not, he's on the pipe... What happens when you use normal valvesprings is that they compress the lifters and you don't get full lift. The way to do it is to convert two lifters to solid using washers or a bolt/nut combo (or buy two real solid lifters) and do it again with checking springs.
04-11-2012, 11:00 AM
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I used modified hydraulic lifter.I used modeling clay too,I know the color looks like playdoh but I got a model clay.
I can't find any checker springs near my town.
I thought I could use solid lifters with my valvesprings?
Thanks guys
I can't find any checker springs near my town.
I thought I could use solid lifters with my valvesprings?
Thanks guys
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04-11-2012, 11:50 AM
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That's a negative.Didn't use it to be honest with you.I hope that's the only issue here.My intake valve has no issues,just the exhaust valve
I just dont wanna hassle with getting new parts and all BS.
I just dont wanna hassle with getting new parts and all BS.
04-11-2012, 11:54 AM
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IMO you need to redo it on both valves using a solid lifter and an adjustable pushrod tweaked to zero lash on the base circle of the cam. Any other method is meaningless.
When you tightened the rocker arm, did the valvespring compress any because of the long pushrod and solid lifter? If it did, and you redo it with the method above, your PTV will increase.
When you tightened the rocker arm, did the valvespring compress any because of the long pushrod and solid lifter? If it did, and you redo it with the method above, your PTV will increase.
04-11-2012, 01:09 PM
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Min PTV clearances - .080" intake / .100" exhaust is considered the standard.
04-11-2012, 05:03 PM
#18
I say you're crazy if you do run it. That looks closer to .050 to me. Why would your valvespring compress at zero? (EDIT- wrong size pushrods) IF thats the case, then so did your stock lifter giving you a false sense of room. It will pump up under pressure and take away any "Give" it had before. Too many variables for this little room. How old is your timing chain? Is there stretch? That would be bad. What about your springs? Can they handle the high rpm you are looking for? Valves can "JUMP" off the cam profile if they are close to performance tolerances. There goes a big valve to piston KISS if that happens. A big valve BEND, if the lifter pumps up, the chain doesn't hold perfect timing from stretch or even the stock slack, and the valve jumps, and the exhaust valve has now "grown" closer to the piston because of heat. Too easy to happen that way.
Be safe. Do it right. Measure with proper tools and leave yourself at least .080 clearance on the exhaust valve.
Be safe. Do it right. Measure with proper tools and leave yourself at least .080 clearance on the exhaust valve.
Last edited by 95ONE; 04-11-2012 at 05:09 PM.
04-11-2012, 10:54 PM
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Recheck my P to V tonight,Used a Comp PR checker,and there was ZERO markings on the clay.I used a modified hydraulic lifter.
Also my PR length checker was measured at 7.3125.
To get my neccessary pushrod length, do I add the GM lifter preload to 7.3125?
Thanks again for the help guys
Also my PR length checker was measured at 7.3125.
To get my neccessary pushrod length, do I add the GM lifter preload to 7.3125?
Thanks again for the help guys
04-11-2012, 11:00 PM
#20
No you do not add that. You put a reg lifter back in the engine. Then with the head torqued down, measure the length checker out to a known normal length which is normally 7.400. This procedure is again what first came from Thunder Racing. Make sure cam is on base circle. Then put the pushrod in. When you go to tighten the rocker bolt, just use the socket and tighten it until there is zero lash or very little resistance when you go to turn the bolt with just the socket. Then take your ratchet, and turn the rocker bolt. 1 full turn is .047" so you will want ideally a tad past 1 turn to get the correct preload that is normally recommended. About 50-80 is normally accepted. If the 7.400 takes more than 1 1/8 or max of 1 1/4 turns to fully seat the rocker, then it is too long. Turn the checker down by small known increments, usually .050 or .025 until you reach that sweet spot. That is all.