Pow-Low

hello, I recently spun my rod bearing and looking to rebuild my stock ls1. I have a TSP v2 torquer cam ,ls6 intake, off road pipe with magnaflow exhaust, stock heads. The machine shop said the crankshaft cannot be safed. I'm looking at rotating assembly and there pretty pricy. I just want to put stronger internals for nitrous. Would a rebuild crankshaft kit be ok or should i put a new crank or need a forged unit?

ls1 1990 VN

What did the machine shop suggest?

Pow-Low

They didn't suggest anything, just that the block could be bored 5 over.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Hey, Pow-Low,
Windsor, here.
I've just gone through the same thing.
Whether you need a forged unit or not prob depends on how much spray you're going to use with your combo.
I don't have the experience to tell you at what threshold this would happen, but I'm sure that someone will chime in to help.
You might check out the Classified section for good used cranks, or maybe a bottom end.
Also, I found a used OEM crank on ebay for cheap.
Good Luck!

3rdCoastPowerSports

iTrader: (5)

how bad did the rod eat into the crankshaft? you can cut/turn the crankshaft quite a bit, as much as .030" (if my memory serves me correctly). You need to have the crank Nitrated after you cut it to restore the hardness. Not sure how much a stock replacment crank goes for but Nitrating and turning the crank will run you $200-$300

parks450

iTrader: (17)

A reman crank is around $200, while a new one is $300 or so. Like gMAG said it depends on how much you plan to spray. Anything over 200 shot I'd prolly forge it. You would be pushing it at that point.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

Found a used, stock crank on ebay for $250 including shipping.
I would guess that there are many available, courtesy of people who have upgraded to forged.

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

Nitrated?? Tell us more about your Nitration process for ferrous metal surfaces.

I swear taking you off ignore has made this board funnier than a comic strip.

Bilster

iTrader: (21)

I'm sure he was refering to nitriding and not nitrating.

The Alchemist

iTrader: (19)

I have my stock crank that's in good condition if you're interested. The only reason I didn't reuse it for my build was the crank pulley spun on the snout, so it's buggered up a little bit. If you're not going to run a supercharger, it's not really an issue though.

Let me know if you're interested and I can get you pictures.

3rdCoastPowerSports

iTrader: (5)

thats correct... sorry i was posting from my phone (it auto changes/suggest words when you type. Im sure others have experienced the same thing). crainhole i though i was on block.

t-trimz28

iTrader: (3)

Find an LQ4 or LQ9 shortblock, add heads/cam of your choice, and throw in some LQ9 rods and Mahle forged pistons.

I was able to get my pistons, rings, and wrist pins for under $450

Pow-Low

thanks for the info guys, as far as rebuilding my stock crank i guess i spun more than one bearing? I called back today and actually talked to the machinest. He said the extra pressure from using nitrous on a rebuild crank isn't a good idea and forged would be better. I think its a good point . I just have to stop being cheap and bite the bullet.

t-trimz28

iTrader: (3)

I run a 200 shot on a stock crank, turned .0020

Just buy good quality bearings.