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For the guys that been helping me with my engine noise

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Old 09-06-2012, 10:02 PM
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Default For the guys that been helping me with my engine noise

Here is the link if ya need refreshed https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ain-noise.html Anyways, I pulled my cam today here is a video of my cam, Its ate on every lobe. Its almost like the cam on the lobes sank in. I believe the cam is a regrind. Maybe this is why it sank in on the lobes, Like itll be fine then bam sank in lobe, From what i can see inside the cam hole is the lifters look fine. I felt the fist four lifters an they spin fine an have no bad spots on them. Would yall just replace the cam an go????
Here is a pic




A pic of the rollers on the lifters, they all look fine, An i rolled a few an felt looked fine

Last edited by flippincamaro; 09-07-2012 at 12:10 AM.
Old 09-06-2012, 10:22 PM
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I would pull the heads and replace the lifters if I drug that cam out of my engine. Not worth wrecking a new $400 cam IMO.
Old 09-06-2012, 10:31 PM
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Roller lifters should not do that to a camshaft. That cam and/or lifters got hot. REALLY hot. I have never seen the base circle of a camshaft mushroom just because with zero other valvetrain problems found and proper spring pressures recommended by the cam manufacturer. One variable that jumps to mind is user install error when the motor was first assembled. Second variable is something is geometrically wrong as lifters create the zero lash when valves are fully closed - on the base circle - and the internal pressure spring is relaxed and oil is feeding the lifter properly. From what you say, you measured the pushrod lengths properly and the lifters are not damaged, zero pushrods bent, the valves are fine, and rockers are fine.

I actually think you need to have your oil galley's checked. I would also make sure you calculated proper lifter pre-load for the over the shelf lifters. Have the camshaft checked for centricity.

This is assuming you find absolutely nothing wrong with bearings, block machining, installation techniques, valvetrain geometry, and proper lifter pre-load calculated with the over-the-shelf lifters.
Old 09-06-2012, 10:56 PM
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Yes, EVerything seems fine, The lifters look great from what i can see of them, Ill post some pics of them, From what we can see, My pushrods were7.425 thats the length we got that we needed with the pushrod length checker, Would it matter if the cam was a regrind cam an maybe it was screwed to begin with?
Old 09-06-2012, 11:05 PM
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What lifter pre-load did you use for the over the counter lifters?

I did not follow the other thread closely, but you are running hydraulic lifters correct?

Billet cams add security but they also compound problems with valvetrain instability - i believe you're lucky the cam is the only thing showing possible wear at this point. RR bearings and bent pushrods is not out of the question.
Old 09-06-2012, 11:56 PM
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ichecked my pushrods an they are straight, As i did the roll on flat surface test, As for the rockers, Ill swap them out an put a different set i have in the garage on it, An yes im running hydraulic roller lifters.
Old 09-07-2012, 12:08 AM
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Here is a pic of the cam gally that shows the roller on the lifters
Old 09-07-2012, 12:52 AM
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Those cam bearings do not look like they are lined up with the block's cam bearing oil holes....which would make sense as to why the cam was so hot it wiped the base circle lobes.

On another note take the lifters out and roll them on your thumb putting pressure on them with your thumb. If you feel grit the needle bearings have flat spots and the lifters are shot/will need replaced.

Check to make sure those bearings are installed correctly.
Old 09-07-2012, 12:57 AM
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That would also explain why your oil pressure was so high. Your cam bearings were installed correctly. The cam overheated and wiped the lobes.

You will need to pull the cam bearings and install new bearings + camshaft + lifters.
Old 09-07-2012, 07:17 AM
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The regrind of the cam was done on the base circle to increase lift..Therefore the heat treated surface went away?????
Old 09-07-2012, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Old Geezer
The regrind of the cam was done on the base circle to increase lift..Therefore the heat treated surface went away?????
That ran across my mind, but Im still not sold. I would double check the cam bearing oil passages. Somethings funky.....and you really really need to check EVERYTHING cam related so this doesnt happen again with another cam
Old 09-07-2012, 07:52 AM
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I would also say that a re-grind has it's surface heat treatment gone. AND, if those bearings aren't lined up with the oil feed holes, it exasperated the problem.

New bearings, lifters and cam should all be on your to do list and perhaps springs to match the cam specs. You will have the heads off to do the lifters so have a machine shop do a quick going through of them for you.

Add ARP head bolts to your list.
Old 09-07-2012, 08:30 AM
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I have head studs on it already, an my brother in laws boss put the cam bearings in, how do I tell if they are lined up? So that would explain my high oil pressure? Even though I have the meiling high flow/ high pressure oil pump? Nobody here really thinks its just my regrind cam went to crap over the 10,000 miles its been ran, an if I get a new cam yall don't think my springs are still good? Their .650 dual valvesprings so I'm hoping there good still. I'd really like to get away with just maybe cam bearings an new cam. I know I should pull the heads an install new lifters but my budget is really tight now an only car we have right this moment.
Old 09-07-2012, 08:34 AM
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Also how do i check to see if the cam bearings are installed wrong?
Old 09-07-2012, 09:38 AM
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Originally Posted by flippincamaro
Also how do i check to see if the cam bearings are installed wrong?
There is a hole in the block that the hole in the cam bearing needs to line up with so the oil can spray the cam. If the bearings are clocked wrong they are blocking the holes in the engine block that feeds oil to the cam.
Old 09-07-2012, 03:27 PM
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Oh ok, I understand now, how can I tell? Could I take a pick or something an stick in the cam bearing oil hole an see if it meets the block hole? If not then there lined up wrong?
Old 09-07-2012, 03:52 PM
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Alright went out an checked it with a pick an on the left side the pick goes in on the right side it won't, also though if the bearings were installed wrong wouldn't the cam bearings be scorned up an the circles on the cam for the bearings be ate up?
Old 09-07-2012, 08:24 PM
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Your valve springs need to match the cam.
Old 09-07-2012, 08:48 PM
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My springs are duals, didn't know I had to match springs with a cam? As long as the lift isn't more than the springs can handle, my cam was .600 lift an sprinhs are good to .650 lift, my main concern is the oilling now, if my bearings weren't in right wouldn't my cam bearings be scorned up aswell? But my oil pressure does stay high. I just don't want to pull the engine to replace the cam bearings if not needed.
Old 09-07-2012, 08:53 PM
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Originally Posted by flippincamaro
Alright went out an checked it with a pick an on the left side the pick goes in on the right side it won't....?
Sounds to me like you'll be doing cam bearings.


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