therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Gents,

A few months back I lost a roller and took out a lobe on the cam. It didn't run long, but the lifter had to be cut out and dropped out the bottom (linkbar). Anyway, flakes of aluminum in the oil, metal on the magnet, and gold in the filter. I have changed the oil a third time in 600 miles and there's much less bearing in the filter, almost none compared to the pics below of the earlier change. Still a good amount of metal on the plug and a couple of flakes of aluminum.

My question is has anyone had a bunch of bearing come off and the motor live for awhile? My oil pressure is just under 40 hot at 850rpm, jumps to 58 around town...it hasn't changed, so I'm hopeful

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Theres no way to really tell without tearing the engine down. If I was in your shoes and on my budget, I would continue with what you are doing and hoping for the best. In my opinion, metal in oil and filter means its not in your bearings. Keep flushing it and I hope it last you a while.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

How big a deal will it be for you if it spits a rod out the side of the block tomorrow?
I am not saying that will happen, what I am getting at is it depends on your level of comfort with risk and what it will take for you to resolve.

If it is a stock shortblock and fragging it will make you shrug your shoulders and call the local boneyard and you can swap it in a day that is much different from it being a forged shortblock that you need to have professionally R&R'd

MikeyZ

iTrader: (20)

more then likely its not bearing but lifter and cam "dust" its just going to scar in a small section of your bearings however bearings are big and you should have plenty of life in your engine. next oil change get your engine hot and as soon as you turn the car off dump the oil you will get alot more contaminates out however you probably will never get everything, big pieces are your worries...

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

If Iam trying to clean out an oilpan well as possible at an oil change I will pour half a quart of cheap fresh oil through with the plug still out.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

I found that lightly blowing some air down the dipstick tube will get a good amount more of the oil on the bottom of the pan as well as the extra flush.

mikey I hope you're right.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Wow...IMHO the WORST that could happen is he spins a bearing. I don't see a rod flying through the block or frag event over some contamination. Like mentioned below, the incident which caused metal is from the cam and lifter. The bearings would get contaminated, but it would be imbedded. To get into the bearings, it would have to pass through the filter first. So no big pieces will get there. Like I said, metal in the oil is a good thing (generally speaking)

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I didn't say it would completely frag. IMO though a gamble should be considered on worst case scenario.
Now tell us no rod ever failed when a bearing spun, not saying it is likely but is worst case scenario.
Really though a spun bearing ruins the fractured cap rod and the journal of the crank is likely damaged as well so either way spun bearing or fragged shortblock the engine is going to have to come out and a minimum grand in repairs should be figured on be it a junkyard shortblock or replacement rod, journal repair so it isn't that different "use of vehicle" wise.

badazz81z28

iTrader: (6)

Your right, anything could happen.

But I suspect, as long as he continues with the flushes, he will be ok.

It really is a gamble....Pull the engine and pay $1K+ in repairs now in anticipation of a serious issue down the road or run as is and be fortunate if it all works out. I know what I would do....

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

I push stock LT1 shortblocks hard. I only had one develop a rod knock and the replacement was $500. It doesn't upset me to have to do an engine swap, other folks don't have the facilities or helping hands that some of us do. If I was paying for all labor or something I would handle things differently.

SS SLP2

iTrader: (8)

son had like problem as OP
my son's 2000 5.3 chvy truck with 320,00 miles running GM hot cam useing Castrol full syn oil had a lifter wear the roller complely flat, we pull left head replaced the one lifter and looked at the balance on left side, replced the hot cam with the cam from my 5.7 ( had 28 k on it ) there was not enough wear in cyl to hang a finger nail on
flushed the engine twice with new oil , all was well 3 weeks/2500-3000 miles, begain to get lite lifter clicl on one lifter on right side , next 50-75 miles 3-4 more begain to click( I think problem was loose metal still in engine from the first lifter worn flat)

just my $0.02' sure hope the OP does not have same problem
Johnny

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

So far so good, idled her in the garage this weekend and all was fine. At least as quiet as stock with headers and a fast 102. Rotella t6 5w40. Nowhere near 3k miles though.

My only concern with losing a bearing is that my quench is on the tight side and if it got the comeaparts at 6800 I might not get it shut down before I take out all that mamofied goodness. Money is tight, but I think I could even stroke it if I had to...but I definitely can't do that and another set of Tony's heads.

VandykeT/A

Since your changing it so much why not use a cheap walmart oil to flush it with instead of the more expensive Rotella? That way you could flush it6 times for the money you've got in the 3? If your not abusing it any between the flush changes thats what I'd do. Change it a couple more times and IMO it'll be ok.

AutomagicLS1

iTrader: (18)

if you are seeing copperish color in your oil its from your thrust bearing or a rod or main bearing is all the way down to the copper it's going to spin any day. shouldn't see copper from a lifter or cam

Havoc40

True. But this was an early production run of special parts, using a solid bronze bearing in the lifter.

gMAG

iTrader: (1)

One lesson I've learned, without alternative, is that when you have metal in the oil, it's to be taken care of, ASAP....no exceptions.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

I hear you, but the oil in the pics is one change ago, the last change showed a lot less metal, no visible gold/copper. Not saying I'm going to get lucky, but I hope I will.

So Randy this is interesting info on the solid bearing...makes me wonder if my oil was even changed. Very interesting.

As for the Rotella, I just dont want to cheap out. $10 extra a change is nothing compared to what I have in this thing. Pennywise and pound foolish, if it ***** the bed I'll know I did all I could.

therabidweasel

iTrader: (5)

Ok a little update, 300 more miles. Much less metal on the plug but still some copperish flakes inside the filter. Over all the flakes are getting smaller and fewer, but still plenty visible, but not really to the camera. All appear to be trapped by the filter. Oil pressure is just below 40 at idle, 60+ at 4k...this is still higher than it was when stock. My plan is to keep updating this thread for awhile.

Ryan 97 Ram Air T/A

iTrader: (20)

Look into getting it tested by Blackstone Labs. I use them all the time just for piece of mind. They can tell all sorts of crazy stuff and might be able to detect if the problem is stable or getting worse.

dhctss

iTrader: (3)

It looks alot better. I feel for you man. Without tearing it apart you are doing all you can by changing oil frequenly. One thing you could do is just keep some money aside if you can just incase somethig happens. Run it for a while and hopefully you will be out of this neck of woods soon