Errrrr broken head bolt
04-15-2013, 04:29 PM
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Errrrr broken head bolt Sup guys I broke a freaking head bolt today. Just wanting to know best way to get it out! It's the number 1 center bolt and it broke off about an inch and a half .. What you guys do???
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04-15-2013, 07:48 PM
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Great now I'm scared of doing my engine rebuild...did you torque too much? Did you use the wrong torque wrench remember theyhave ranges wich I learn the hard way lol(bolt broken in flywheel), or do you think the hole was dirty or was there maybe water in the hole sorry for the questions but would like to learn before I jump in the rebuild. Thanks
04-15-2013, 08:10 PM
#9
Great now I'm scared of doing my engine rebuild...did you torque too much? Did you use the wrong torque wrench remember theyhave ranges wich I learn the hard way lol(bolt broken in flywheel), or do you think the hole was dirty or was there maybe water in the hole sorry for the questions but would like to learn before I jump in the rebuild. Thanks
Last edited by 03Sssnake; 04-15-2013 at 08:21 PM.
04-15-2013, 09:19 PM
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Great now I'm scared of doing my engine rebuild...did you torque too much? Did you use the wrong torque wrench remember theyhave ranges wich I learn the hard way lol(bolt broken in flywheel), or do you think the hole was dirty or was there maybe water in the hole sorry for the questions but would like to learn before I jump in the rebuild. Thanks
04-15-2013, 09:22 PM
#13
I'd seriously consider head studs for several reasons:
1) they are reusable, saving you lots of money depending on how often you need to need or choose to remove the cylinder heads. in the long run they're cheaper than bolts.
2) they take the wear off of the aluminum block threads. I work with aluminum every day, and threads get boogered up incredibly easily, especially if they are not thoroughly cleaned and / or they are used repeatedly.
3) you get a more accurate clamp load as you approach the torque value since your torque is not being used to overcome friction under the head of the bolt AND between the bolt and block threads. the only area of friction contact in the studded scenario is under the head of the nut.
1) they are reusable, saving you lots of money depending on how often you need to need or choose to remove the cylinder heads. in the long run they're cheaper than bolts.
2) they take the wear off of the aluminum block threads. I work with aluminum every day, and threads get boogered up incredibly easily, especially if they are not thoroughly cleaned and / or they are used repeatedly.
3) you get a more accurate clamp load as you approach the torque value since your torque is not being used to overcome friction under the head of the bolt AND between the bolt and block threads. the only area of friction contact in the studded scenario is under the head of the nut.
04-15-2013, 09:38 PM
#15
Depending on how deep it is you might be able to use a screwdriver and tap it so that it backs out. GL with it. I use headstuds on every motor I take apart. Its cheaper in the long run.
04-16-2013, 06:02 AM
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I just.finished up my motor this weekend using stock OEM bolts. I found I got nice smooth easy turn for both the second and third torque sequences by using a long breaker bar and not a torque wrench or ratchet with the angle gauge. Threads were cleaned and chased with arp chasers.