D14HUGGER.ORANGE

I'm getting ready for my cam swap on my 99SS I have a slp double roller timing chain and gears. As far as removing the crank sprocket I can rent and pulley from orielys? Install the new slp crank sprocket how do I press it on without damaging the crank? Do I have too drop the oil pan from the front to install the oil pump? What else should I buy besides new oil/filter, coolent, rtv, rent a under drive puller&crank sprocket puller??? Any tricks of the trade any advice would be appreicated!my first cam swap)

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

Order a crank install tool from Coloradospeed. com or a another vendor might have them. Its called a hawks crank harmonic balancer install tool

Here's a link http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...3-p-10976.html
Hope this helps

mark21742

First do NOT use any RTV!
Have a pen magnet handy and be ready to hang your engine and drop your pan IF you drop the oil pickup tube bolt. Lol I got the bolt that I dropped down in mine out with no problem the first time, but couldn't get the wrench out that I dropped in there (sucks, but happens sometimes).

I cent remember the thread size/ pitch off hand of the crank bolt, but you will want to get a bolt about two inches or so longer and several washers to get the crank pulley back on and not risk hurting any of the crank snout threads.
You will also need to gently tweak the pickup tube out a about 1/16-1/8 inch to fit back on the pump after it is shimmed out.

After that, try fitting the front cover on the motor without the front gasket...it should fit flush against the front of the block all the way around with no gaps....if you have any gap, pull the front cover off and put a few dabbs of grease on the top edge of your oil pump and the oil pump bolts.

Now slide the front cover back on (still without the gasket) rock it around alittle then pull it back off.

Use a dremel or small angle grinder and take just a small amour off the cover wherever the grease stuck to it.....repeat until the cover sits flush.

Then put the front cover gasket and front cover and bolt everything down

pauls99z28

iTrader: (32)

Sorry using my cellphone. here is The link to to the install tool.
http://www.coloradospeed.com/hawk-ls...3-p-10976.html

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

1st buy or rent a torque wrench and torque everything to spec when putting back together. Buy some scotch brite pads and w40, it is great for cleaning surfaces like timing cover gasket surface etc.

You do have to drop the oil pan bolts to get access to the pickup tube bolt, drain your oil first! I also tied some thin steel wire around that oil pump/pickup tube bolt once I had it half way off, you do not want that bitch to fall into your pan.....and as already suggested, get the hawk balancer install tool. You can rent a 3 jaw puller to yank the factory balancer. Use red loctite on your cam retainer plate bolts, oil pump bolts, and cam sprocket bolts. Some also put it on the rocker bolts, don't go crazy if you do, don't want to yank those heli coils out of the heads if you ever have to remove rockers after...

D14HUGGER.ORANGE

Thanks

Cajun ELESS-ONE

http://www.ls1howto.com/index.php?article=23

read this a few times before. and i would strongly advise on getting a better oil pump if us didnt already. it will help in the long run. get a telescopic pen magnet and take ur time. the bolt is a 8mm on the oil pump tube. if you know anyone with ratchet wrenches, use them. they are worth their weight in gold lol

D14HUGGER.ORANGE

Yeah I read that over and over again! And I got a slp oil pump. Gonna go buy some ratchet wrenches tomorrow need too add those to the collection!!' Thanks everyone for the valuable information...

D14HUGGER.ORANGE

Oh yeah another question. I live in Hawaii and the spring heat is back! Should I run 10w30 royal purple instead of 5w30?

mark21742

10w30 will work fine...I personally prefer Pennzoil.

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

Consider using Rotella T6 5-40W synthetic, been running that in my C5Z and 99, cars have kept good oil pressure, even during the Texas summer. I used to run 0-30W Castrol (German blend), nothing wrong with it per say. I made the switch to Rotella as it has more zinc and some other anti-wear additives than most off the shelf car oils, the epa has mandated that zinc and phosphorus be reduced in car oils for emissions reasons (reduced to 400ppm). Rotella T6 is right around 12-1300 ppm zddp. I think the off shelf car oils are fine for stock valve-train and spring pressures, however; those of us with aftermarket valve springs (higher pressures), aggressive cams should consider using an oil with more anti-wear additives