mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

So I have a H/C ls1, spun a bearing last week and want to do something new.
Current setup: 243 slightly ported, ms3 cam, and ls6 intake. that's pretty much it. Car made low 400's.

Now my dilemma is. Get another block, meaning get a 6.0 and take my heads to get ported little more (cnc this time) and keep the ls6 intake.

Or get my current block to a 383 stroker, get some afr heads OR keep the 243's and keep the ls6 mani

Or get a forged 6liter get ls3 heads and a fast 102 manifold.

I need some suggestions since I just want to get the best power possible. Not going to daily it or nothing but still want to drive it on the weekends once it a while.

Thinking about spraying it too

2000PewterT/A

Your budget should be what determines what you want, if money is no issue then get the forged 6.0. One thing I will say is once you add in the price of machining and rotating assembly cost for a 383 it can be almost the same as a 6.0

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Go 6.0

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Money is not a huge issue but I still don't want to spend to much. Can I make good power with the 6.0 and 243's?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

Yes and the iron block is a solid platform you can build off of, especially if you ever feel like going FI...

You should look at wcch to Cnc your heads, Richard took good care of me.

lemons12

iTrader: (71)

Check my build thread...

I opted for a forged 370 and an ls3 top end... Budget had to be kept in mind, even though I blew it... And I had a goal I wanted to hit.

mark21742

I would and did go 6.0 iron block. There is nothing wrong with going with the 383, but if you want more later you will need a new bigger block anyway. I LOVE my 408

Lemons what bore did you end up with and how do you like the ls3 top end? I've heard they are a little lazy down low compared to the cathedral ports, but didn't know how much truth there was to that.

ckpitt55

iTrader: (4)

Machining isn't cheap....you're looking at easily $1k or more for a reputable shop to get things up and running (assuming you hone cylinders, clean up cut on decks, balance rotating assy, line hone). You could either spend that money on getting your block back into shape or buying a new block.

I went the machining route on my build. It's been just as rewarding for me as it has been frustrating....I've learned and am learning more in the past year than I have in the rest of my time messing with cars as it forced me to really dig into the detail of engine assembly and tolerancing. Would I do it again? I don't know, but I imagine it'd be much much easier the next time around. My 0.02.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys. I found a forged 6.0 already and I might head that route, I'm just not sure if I should do ls3 top or keep my 243's and port them. Someone told me that the ls3 heads already flow pretty good without porting and shouldn't even bother to port.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Also, what is it I need to relocate? Cam or crank sensor?

mark21742

My personal preference would be to keep the 243s instead of the ls3 top end.

Depending on what year/generation the block is you might not gave to change anything, or you might need to relocate the cam sensor to the front, move the knock sensors to the side of the block and swap crank reluctor rings out

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Go 6L, go forged on the bottom end if you can afford, and send your 243s to TEA or AI to be ported. Keep your MS3.

If you find a good 6L core (LQ9 with flat tops) then don't even worry with forging it until you need to. Have the bearings and rotating assembly checked. Then use the money you would have used for the bottom end to do a FAST 102. I think you can get 6L out of junkyard trucks for $300-400.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Found a nice 6 liter that I might pick up. It's forged and all. But I was just thinking if I should keep the 243's. I honestly don't want the ms3 anymore. Even though its bad ***. Just trying to get as much power as possible all motor with my options I have available.

So how does a 6 liter forged with CNC 243's and custom cam sound?

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

yes get the 243's CNC'd at WEST COAST CYLINDER HEADS, there right near dodger stadium so you can drive there and save the $100 it would take to ship them to and from AI/TEA... and get PATG to custom a cam for you for $25 bucks...

my 2 cents

thompson

iTrader: (4)

We have some great options with our forged motors and a few specials going on with our short blocks. Give us a call and see if we can help you with your motor needs. Our Forged piston 5.7 Aluminum blocks are on sale for $1999 with only 2 left.

Burken01

iTrader: (88)

check out WCCH website and the headwork selection they do

http://www.proheads.com/pricing.html

.... theyre even cool to swing by the shop and they will take the time and talk to you for a long time...

every time I go im in their for atleast an hour talking about my setup and asking question..

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Thanks guys I appreciate the help. Seems like the combos are good either way I go, but it just comes down how much money I want to spend. I'm hoping 4500 tops, I'm doing all the work on putting it together and taking it out. Since I work at a shop I have the beauty of having lifts and power tools. I would do the bottom end myself but I don't trust me much yet.

mannyman84

iTrader: (2)

Ok so if I do the 6.0. What reluctor wheel do I need to make it work with my PCM? How many tooths does it have to be or is there an extension to connect to the old connector in the back?

mark21742

I take it this is for your 2002 ? If it is you will want a gen 3 style motor with the 24 tooth reluctor ring and rear mount cam sensor. On the gen 4 blocks they also moved the knock sensors from under the valley pan over to the passenger of the block just above the starter.

If you would get a gen 4 there are a few companies out there that sell a converter box so your computer can read the 58 tooth wheel, and you can rewire and lengthen the cam sensor pigtail to run to the front of the block, but not sure what would need to happen with the knock sensors....it will save you time and a couple hundred dollars to go gen 3 with the 24 tooth ring

Alvin@PCMofNC

Since you already have the 243's I'd have them ported, then do a custom cam and a 90mm fast on a 6.0L block. The LQ9 blocks are pretty cheap but you'll pay a weight penalty on the nose.

Here is a ported 243 head package I put together for a vette who frequents VIR and Road Atlanta. He loves the midrange/under the curve power and we where exceptionally happy with the power even thru a stock catback. He is coming back soon for some mods. Since it is a 6.0L LS2 vette it is pratically your exact same setup.




http://pcmofnc.com/index.php/blog/42-builds/149-guy

Even though the cam sounds great it is actually quite well behaved. It would drive much nicer than the cam you have now. Mid range power was crazy!