BWZ_2k2Z28

I want to know a couple of cams that are good for daily driving. Main things I'm looking for is not replacing valve springs and USABLE power. So I've looked at the GM Hot Cam and the ASA cam. I'm leaning towards the ASA cam because its best down low from what I've read on here and its very easy on the valvetrain. The car is a 2002 so I think I have the LS6 intake and I've got true duals. I'll be running it with the stock 241 heads if that makes a difference. I appreciate any info you guys can give me.

whatsa347

iTrader: (6)

Find a decent 224 cam not on xer lobes and a set of Brian tooley springs and call it a day, easier to tune and a nice long valve spring life.

BWZ_2k2Z28

I thought I read on here that the 224 and 228 cam will require new springs every 30,000 miles or something close to that. Also what LSA should I be looking for?

Beave

Call Geoff at EPS. He spec'd my cam for my daily driver. Of course I was building the whole motor and heads etc. so I wanted a little more than average power. We went with a 230/234 .600 112lsa setup. Car runs and drives great, over 10k miles on it already and never better. My current PAC dual springs were in my old motor which had over 30k on it, they tested out fine so I put them back in the new motor so they have over 40k miles now. As long as you are buying good parts and match everything in the valvetrain together properly it shouldn't be an issue. Just give him a call and he will set you up with a great cam.

GNon18s

I DD a Texas Speed 228r with xer lobes and dual valvesprings. It does everything my stock cam did except it made 55-60 more hp.

tjs114

just spent a lot of time talking with TSP to choose my cam. 224 and 228 are advised to be checked at 30k or 4 years but was told that with good quality springs they should last well above that.

BWZ_2k2Z28

Yea I don't want a cam that I need to check/change every 30k. Thats why I liked the ASA so much. Sounds good, usable power, and its pretty much "set it and forget it"(assuming everything is running correctly).

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I'd look at a higher stall TC (3000-3600) first. The for cams take a Look at the Comp #54-418-11 (224/228 112lsa, lift .534"/.537") with Xtreme RPM lobes, or #54-428-11 (228/230 112lsa, lift .571"/.573") with Xtreme RPM High Lift lobes. Both of these 2 lobe design are fairly mild for Comp lobes and should offer long valve train life.
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/catalog/camshafts/

low2001gmc

iTrader: (148)

tr224 or 228-230, 571-573 mentioned above are both proven cams. use in conjunction with pac1218s (145 on ebay) and youll be set. pac springs are as reliable and dependable as can be.

03Sssnake

iTrader: (20)

^^^Those are indeed good lobes for longevity...

smg267

iTrader: (23)

I have been running this cam for about 3 years now (228/230 .571 .573 112LSA). Makes pretty good power and drives like stock. I really couldn't find any information on it when I was searching and now it seems to making a reemergence.

You can easily drive through parking lots in 1st gear @ 5mph w/o bucking and cruise in 6th gear @ 1200 rpm all day

430/400 w/TSP 2.5 5.3's, FAST 90/90, 85 MAF, UDP, SLP longtubes and SLP Dual/Dual exhaust. M6 car.

Car feels stronger since swapping to Kooks not to mention the added ground clearance!

CamaroSS27

iTrader: (6)

I ran 224/224 it was amazing, drove like stock but pulled like a beast, made really great power curve at 388hp.

BWZ_2k2Z28

For a while I was set on the TSP 224. But you have to replace springs at 30k with that cam. There are people getting 370+ hp and a nice power curve on the ASA cam. So for me I'd take 20 hp less if it means less maintenance. That Comp 224 is very appealing to me though. What springs should I run with that cam? PAC1218's?

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The PAC 1218s should be a very good choice, and their only $120 at the WS6store.

BWZ_2k2Z28

Ok so if I got the Comp #54-418-11 and the PAC1218's, what else do I need to get for a cam swap. Car has 108xxx miles and I'm not doing heads right now.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

I'd get new: valve stem seals(16), rocker arm trunion upgrade, pushrods, water pump gaskets/seals(2), front cover perimeter seal, front cover crank shaft seal, oil pump, oil pump pickup tube O-ring, timing chain/gear set, crank bolt, Oil, oil-filter, coolant, blue and red Loctite, Permatex silicone gasket sealant.
When you have the radiator out try and clean out as much debris(feathers, dust, bugs, and leaves) as possible that's stuck between the cooling fins.
I'd also get some steel or aluminum 5/16" diameter rod. You'll want two pieces about 22" long, and you want to taper the ends that go into the engine. This way you will be guaranteed to not drop any lifters when you remove the stock cam.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

I have some very nice cam grinds that are exceptional for DD use. I also have some custom grinds I do for guys needing milder cams.

225/234 .612"/.578" 112+3 is one of my favorites.

BWZ_2k2Z28

Martin, I was gonna contact you as soon as I got the money together. You have a great reputation on this forum. I just wanted to see what others were running and how they liked it, problems they ran into, etc.

225/234 .612"/.578" 112+3, how's this cam on the valvetrain?

KingPin1094

iTrader: (12)

Im building a completely redone 408 motor with L92 heads (shooting for 500whp) that im gonna DD. Pat G spec'd the cam and EPS ground it 236/242 .629/.629 with 114 + 2 LSA. Havent recieved it yet, nor have any info on its Daily driving ability, but its what i went with. Hoping to get the car done in 2 weeks.

Sales@Tick

iTrader: (3)

Very easy on the valve-train. 20-25k on the springs will be what you would see from such a lobe selection. The exhaust lobe is extremely mild with the intake lobe not being super aggressive, but aggressive enough to not lose any power over another lobe. No LSK or XE-R lobes are being used. LSL intake lobe and an extreme rpm high lift exhaust lobe.