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loose rocker arms after fresh rebuild?

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Old 08-22-2013, 11:50 AM
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Default loose rocker arms after fresh rebuild?

Started hearing an off beat tick that sounded like someone was tapping a screwdriver on the inside of the valve cover. Havent heard this noise untill yesterday, the engine and trans has about 2k miles on a fresh rebuild. Just thinking logically, with steel arp bolts holding the rockers down to aluminum 5.3 heads, and the expansion/contraction of the new engine break in process... could it be a possibility that they have come loose some? I took the valve cover off of the drivers side head (where the noise was coming from) and nothing was broke. I did notice that 6 of the 8 valves were "loose" and could slide them back and forth, when it should technically be the other way around. I tried searching but could not find a definite answer if this was a possibility... below is a video i uploaded to youtube. Thanks in advance.

Old 08-22-2013, 03:10 PM
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Did you reuse lifters and did you check push rod langth correctly ?
Old 08-22-2013, 04:27 PM
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new lifters, and new push rods. The guy who built my engine said that the pushrods may be too long but installed them anyway. It was fine untill yesterday.
Old 08-22-2013, 04:43 PM
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You need to do a process of elimination. If the rocker bolts are still tight start taking the rockers off and check the trunnions in your rockers and check to make sure you don't have any bent pushrods. What type of cam, springs, and pushrods are you using? If your rockers and pushrods check good then take a dial indicator and start checking lobeliftat the pushrod tip. If lobe lift is good you probably have some collapsed lifters. "Pushrods may be too long!" You either have the right preload or you don't depending on your lifters .
Old 08-22-2013, 04:51 PM
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are these stock rockers? its normal to have a little side-to-side play in the rocker when valve is closed.
Old 08-22-2013, 06:42 PM
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Use blue loctite and tighten rockers that are off the lift of the cam, then rotate motor and tighten the rest of the rockers when they are then off the cam
Old 08-22-2013, 08:20 PM
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Your engine builder is an azz if he installed push rods that were too long. That may be your issue. If they are too long, your lifters may be clacking.

Properly torqued fasteners should not come lose. I have about 3500 miles on my new engine and they all looked good after checking 2500 miles later. I marked them for movement indication are they were exact.
Old 08-22-2013, 11:19 PM
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Yeah, I double checked all the rocker bolts on the drivers side and they were all torqued. I will have to start digging further this weekend. I have 228r cam, comp cam springs and 7.4 pushrods. Thanks for everyone's input, will keep you informed.
Old 08-23-2013, 06:16 AM
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yea if the pushrods were to long it could have beat the hell outta the lifter and they just finally had enough...its weird that it never made noise befor...either way if he told me he did that id be throwing them threw his front window

that's why I never take that kind of stuff to a shop they just don't have the attention to detail to your "baby" to them its a paycheck...plus I have the worst luck finding yahoos lol. good luck keep us updated.
Old 08-23-2013, 08:32 AM
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He will get his... im hoping to have to just replace pushrods, lifters, and springs. Could the longer pushrods cause the springs to lose their properties? Such as spring rate?

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Old 08-23-2013, 12:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Fast98Z28
He will get his... im hoping to have to just replace pushrods, lifters, and springs. Could the longer pushrods cause the springs to lose their properties? Such as spring rate?
what spring are you using and what cam? shorter answer its possible if the cam was close to the max rated lift of the spring and if the pushrods were way too long and bottoming out the lifter...I would think the car would have trouble idling if that were the case though.
Old 08-23-2013, 01:14 PM
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comp cam behive springs with 228r and 7.4 pushrods
Old 08-23-2013, 02:35 PM
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assuming those 918s and that 228R is under .600, around .588. You should be good... Do you know if the deck was resurfaced and/or heads milled any? GM MLS gaskets? Those 7.4 should have been close to what you needed if there was no milling involved. Honestly would start the car for 30 secs~1 minute...then shut it down and pull the intake/exhaust rockers off of #1 or #2 cylinder, turn the motor over by hand until your on the heel of the cam/valve fully closed and reinstall PR, rocker. Run it down finger tight to 0 lash, play will suddenly be gone from the rocker. Then torque to 22lbs and count the turns, should be anywhere from 1 turn to 1 1/4, some will say 1 1/2, 1 3/4 turns on LS7 lifters. I personally don't like that much preload. With stock rockers the PR longer/shorter is the only way to adjust preload.
Old 08-23-2013, 03:07 PM
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I do not believe the heads were milled. And they were Cometic gaskets. What would that do for me?
Old 08-23-2013, 03:24 PM
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FWIW...With my 228R cam, heads milled .020", GM stock gasket (thick)...I'm using a 7.375" PR.

Depending on thick your head gasket (Assuming thin being a cometic) is and assuming you have not milled the heads...With that info already I would think your pushrods are too long.
Old 08-23-2013, 03:58 PM
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Im hoping that is all it comes down to. If i do find out my PR's are too long, should i replace the springs also? 5.3 heads would not make a difference in PR length would they? Unless they were milled obviously. I will be working on this tomorrow morning and will find out. I wish i would have known what i know now when the engine was being assembled.
Old 08-23-2013, 07:54 PM
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You are running chrome moly pushrods? You never mentioned the brand of pushrods unless I missed that.
Old 08-24-2013, 01:58 PM
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I bought the TSP package. Comp cam 228r, Comp beehive valve springs, and TSP 7.4 pushrods
Old 08-24-2013, 03:28 PM
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Is there a good way to test the lifters with the head still on?
Old 08-24-2013, 03:37 PM
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Pushrods may be too short. Most aftermarket cams have a smaller base circle. Check them yourself


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