Small cam 5.3, Where should it idle at?
#1
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Small cam 5.3, Where should it idle at?
I have a 5.3 in my 96 T/A with a small cam and I think it idles too high for the size cam so I wanted to see where you guys thought it should be. The cam is 224/230 .538/.538 114+4 and the car idles at 1k warmed up. I think it should be closer to 750-800. What do you guys think?
I know its a terrible idea but I have a stock torque converter cause my trans died and I didn't have enough funds to put in an aftermarket tc after the rebuild. Being that it idles so high its causing the car to try n roll at lights and it shifts into drive or reverse really hard. So I figure if I can get the idle close to stock maybe it will buy me some time till I can buy a nice TC
I know its a terrible idea but I have a stock torque converter cause my trans died and I didn't have enough funds to put in an aftermarket tc after the rebuild. Being that it idles so high its causing the car to try n roll at lights and it shifts into drive or reverse really hard. So I figure if I can get the idle close to stock maybe it will buy me some time till I can buy a nice TC
#3
Staging Lane
Join Date: Apr 2011
Location: Wentzville, MO
Posts: 57
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
yeah as said above thats way high mine has .610 lift with 23x duration and mine is only set at 800 best route to go is to contact the company that makes it and ask what they would recommend
#7
My 231/239 idles at 750 with a tight 3000 stall and it idles and drives awesome. I had a busted vac line and didn't know once and it idled at 850 and felt like dick downshifting. Good luck!
Trending Topics
#8
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
That's exactly what im thinking of going with. A 3k stall, I think, would be just right.
I had a 3600 before and it was too much for my liking. I don't know why the heck the tuner set it so high. Its really annoying....
I had a 3600 before and it was too much for my liking. I don't know why the heck the tuner set it so high. Its really annoying....
#10
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Highland, MI
Posts: 1,366
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yes, a stall is a good idea...but it has nothing to do with how high the idle is. Also, unless you have one huge vacuum leak it should idle at the set number. A high idle with a cam that size is usually the result of an inexperienced tuner. I.E. setting the idle high can bandaid stalling issues, etc..
#11
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't think theres a vacuum leak but I can always check again. I should be able to hear it if its pretty big right?
I agree with you JDM, I think he set it so high because all he did was a basic street tune.
I agree with you JDM, I think he set it so high because all he did was a basic street tune.
#12
11 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
to devalue my posts. Something you've done often over the years.
So let's put a cam with 30+ degrees more of duration in a 325 inch airpump
and the computer (with all of it's sensory input) tries to add fuel to the 17%
addition of air being fed to it. The OP never mentioned about what the tuner
did or set it at in the initial post, but later called it a base tune.
Now we both know that NO tune would **** the plugs up in a hurry....so I
guess I'm assuming now that a base tune is to throw a few degrees of timing
and maybe clean up the fuel trims a bit. Does this not explain why it idles a
few hundred rpms more than stock and most likely prevents it from dying at
a stoplight in gear with the air on ?????
Obviously the OP needs a full on street or chassis dyno tune, however if he
only has 5 or 600 bucks of expendable income then the single biggest im-
provement to his entire combination would be a quality stall converter. NO ??
#14
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (96)
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Turnin' Wrenches Infractions: 005
Posts: 24,241
Likes: 0
Received 81 Likes
on
72 Posts
Thanks again Steve for not really contributing to the thread but rather trying
to devalue my posts. Something you've done often over the years.
So let's put a cam with 30+ degrees more of duration in a 325 inch airpump
and the computer (with all of it's sensory input) tries to add fuel to the 17%
addition of air being fed to it. The OP never mentioned about what the tuner
did or set it at in the initial post, but later called it a base tune.
Now we both know that NO tune would **** the plugs up in a hurry....so I
guess I'm assuming now that a base tune is to throw a few degrees of timing
and maybe clean up the fuel trims a bit. Does this not explain why it idles a
few hundred rpms more than stock and most likely prevents it from dying at
a stoplight in gear with the air on ?????
Obviously the OP needs a full on street or chassis dyno tune, however if he
only has 5 or 600 bucks of expendable income then the single biggest im-
provement to his entire combination would be a quality stall converter. NO ??
to devalue my posts. Something you've done often over the years.
So let's put a cam with 30+ degrees more of duration in a 325 inch airpump
and the computer (with all of it's sensory input) tries to add fuel to the 17%
addition of air being fed to it. The OP never mentioned about what the tuner
did or set it at in the initial post, but later called it a base tune.
Now we both know that NO tune would **** the plugs up in a hurry....so I
guess I'm assuming now that a base tune is to throw a few degrees of timing
and maybe clean up the fuel trims a bit. Does this not explain why it idles a
few hundred rpms more than stock and most likely prevents it from dying at
a stoplight in gear with the air on ?????
Obviously the OP needs a full on street or chassis dyno tune, however if he
only has 5 or 600 bucks of expendable income then the single biggest im-
provement to his entire combination would be a quality stall converter. NO ??
#15
You wont always hear a vacuum leak. I put a catch can on my 02 z28 and wanted to use the pcv valve still. I had to put a 90* brass fitting on the end of the pcv so I could run a vac line away from the motor to the catch can and it completely ripped in half. No suction noise. Car idled a little funky then I tried flooring it in first and it was rich as hell and the shifts were off and smacking the limiter. A trip to the parts store for vac line and she was good.
#17
12 Second Club
Thread Starter
iTrader: (23)
Join Date: May 2007
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 652
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
JDM, Id have to get the file using hp tuners right? because my friend has offered to take a look at it before I buy the credits so he can mess with it. I don't really want to take it back to the guy who tuned it. That would probably be more hassle than its worth.