DavidSim

I have been taking my modified street car to local road race tracks for the past year, I got the bug bad and have bought a real road race car with a LS1 based motor (440 HP at the wheels).

I would like to try building my own LS motor, on a budget, for practice days only (no actual racing) to save my good LS1 based motor.

I was thinking of using a 6.0 motor as a base, putting the majority of the money in to bottom end and valve train to make sure things are durable and reliable/safe.

Is anyone doing their own budget LS motor build for track day use, that can advise on the options for a safe/reliable motor as such?

Any advice on a basic combination/setup for the common man would be appreciated.

Thanks.

AmishAssassin

iTrader: (2)

Loaded topic what is your budget, power requirements, rpm requirements?

fruitsalad

iTrader: (5)

You could also go 5.3 for cheapness in case of failure.
Here's what I would probably put in mine if I were building one:
LS6 intake
GMPP ASA cam (cheap, low lift, very easy on valvetrain, broad powerband, designed for circle track ASA racing series) or 224r cam
PAC 1221 springs
Hardened pushrods
Ported LS6 oil pump
Road race oil pan/windage tray
Oil cooler if you can
160 t-stat?
Turn One PS pump

As for rotating assembly and bearings,
I think 05 and up 6.0s had better connecting rods.

KCS

iTrader: (20)

I'm planning a 347ci LS1 build for my Mustang to run in the SCCA stuff locally. I'm just using a stock crank and rods, with ARP rod bolts and Probe forged pistons. Cheap and light.

The oiling system on the LS engine is not all that great, its plagued with some pretty bad windage and aeration of the oil. I'm working on fixing the issue, but I'll probably end up running a dry sump as well, which can be a pretty good bandaid.

Also, I'll be using turned down LS3 valves in the heads. They're a hollow stem design and will be able to help keep the valvetrain together as it will spend most of its time at higher RPM. Stiff 3/8" pushrods and relatively mild lobes on the cam will also keep the valvetrain happy.

DavidSim

>>Loaded topic what is your budget, power requirements, rpm requirements?<<

My concerns are more towards reliability, power of at least 350 at the wheels, I would keep the RPMs lower too (5500 to 6000 would be just fine).

This would be a motor just for practice, but I would want to at least upgrade the fragile stuff for reliability purposes (e.g. Rod bolts, perhaps the rods too, good pistons, rockers and valve springs, oil pump, at least I assume).

I am not trying to set the world on fire, just build a motor that I can run reliably to do practice laps.

BTW, one of our tracks has a long straight where some cars reach 170+ MPH, I have no intention of ever running that speed with the engine but I would want it to be safe (and not come apart at speed without warning).

I just do not want to wear out my good motor bopping around on track/practice days if I can help it.

Thanks.

DavidSim

BTW, my car only weights 2380 pounds, so a little power would go a long way.

Thanks.

Bilster

iTrader: (21)

Not to steal your thread but I've been considering this type of motor as well. Would a Corvette bat wing pan/windage tray be enough oil control?

DavidSim

>>Not to steal your thread but I've been considering this type of motor as well<<

No problem, steal away, any questions and information received back is most welcome.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

KCS has it right.

No need to do much on the bottom end. Hell, the bottom end for the 04+ engines is pretty stout. Although, aftermarket parts are lighter. The pinned connecting rods are around 640g and the pistons are unknown to me. But the pressed rods and pistons are 618 and 434. You can do better in the aftermarket, especially with the pistons. Compstar and K1 Ultralite come in at 618g and are overkill for what you want.

The real place to focus is on valvetrain.

Hollow-stem valves (LS3, like I have), stout pushrods 3/8" double tapered, mild endurance lobes, short-travel lifters, and stock rockers w/trunion upgrade. Oiling will be an issue. Dry sump will be your best bet. Katech sells multiple staged kits. But they are not cheap.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

When you say you "putting the majority of the money in to bottom end " what do you mean? Stock components are generally pretty good particularly the crank.

Valvetrain is as you are aware critical I just want to see what you thought you needed to do to the bottomend.

DavidSim

>>When you say you "putting the majority of the money in to bottom end " what do you mean? Stock components are generally pretty good particularly the crank<<

Good point on your part, I was just surmizing that perhaps the bottom end would need some help for sustained RPM usage. From what I gather in my research, the block and crank are stout, the rods and rod bolts as well as the pistons may require some attention (at least good bolts, maybe better rods, and some good pistons). Also some attention to the oiling system in general.

>>Valvetrain is as you are aware critical I just want to see what you thought you needed to do to the bottomend<<

No problem, I can definitely understand now that the valvetrain would need some help for sure.

I guess, in the final analysis, any all aluminum 5.3 or 6.0 LS motor with some mods to address reliability issues would suffice for me. My car is so light that at least 350 HP at the wheels would do just fine, it appears that this level of reliable power at no more than 6000 RPM should be easily attained.

I already have a motor in the car that runs just fine, a replacement long block of some sort that would be compatible with all my bolt ons (e.g. ignition/electronics, intake, etc.) would be ideal.

I appreciate all the feedback folks.

1981TA

iTrader: (7)

Food for thought: my car is powered by a 2001 corvette LS1 with a stock long block, long tube headers, edelbrock carb and performer intake. I use the c5 batwing pan, overfilled half a quart, turn one PS pump, PS cooler and fluidampr 10 percent underdrive pulley. I've got a ACT lightweight flywheel and Spec 2+ clutch with the lightweight pressure plate. The car has been the subject of considerable weight reduction, tipping scales at 2900 without me in it.

Ya know what? It regularly reels in more powerful cars on the track. Its way more capable than I am, and that's with just around 380 crank HP. If you wanna stay cheap, maybe play around with something of relatively "stock" HP levels. No need going with gonzo HP numbers, especially if you're not racing.

My long block cost me 800 bucks + new head gaskets (wanted to inspect it). The other stuff needed to make it run cost another 1200 (intake and headers being the two big ticket items).

kmspruill242

1981TA went the way I would go if I had to do it again.

I went with a new LS6 Long block when I rebuilt my car. Trunion up grade, better push rods (if it makes you feel better) Stay away from huge cams with fast ramp rates. Heck my LS6 made 380 at the wheels on a 04 LS6 cam, with intake and exhaust. The torque curve was flat from 2800-5500. Perfect for road racing. No reason to touch the bottom end. Your not going to spin it to the moon so you don't have to get fancy. Like you said you just want it to run.

FYI- the stock LS1 I took out of my car had 120K miles on it and is running strong in a friend's 68 camaro road race car.

Spend money on stuff you can use on both motors. ATI damper, Turn One PS pump, At least a baffle insert for the oil pan, intake, exhaust. Then track time, track time, track time....

DavidSim

Lots of great advice guys, thanks so much.