LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Looking to buy a cam to replace the stock C5 Z06 cam in my car now. I'd like more lope and character but would also like more midrange and top end power.

Engine details:
2003 LQ4 Iron 6.0 pulled from van with 134K
Stock bottom end, rods, pistons, etc
Stock rod bearings, cam bearings, main bearings, etc
GTO oil pan, pickup tube, windage tray
Stock Z06 Cam from 2002 Vette
AC Delete (not running an AC compressor at this time)

Top end:
317 heads milled .026” for 66cc chambers (verified by the machine shop that did the work).
Stock pushrods, rockers, lifters, etc
LS6 “yellow” valve springs and retainers

Stock LS6 intake manifold
Stock LS6 fuel rail, with 42# Ford Greentop injectors

Exhaust:

CTSV cast iron manifolds with the cats removed, paired to OEM BMW exhaust

F-Body T56, 3.62 rear, vehicle weight close to 4000.



Looking at a 232/238 .595/.605 115LSA Comp Cam. Any thoughts on whether it's a decent choice for my vehicle/drivetrain setup?

Given the machine work done on my heads, will I need to change pushrods to accommodate the cam? I'm assuming at the very least I will need to upgrade from the LS6 Yellow springs.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Before I'd run that cam I'd want higher compression(around 11.0:1) a set of Long tube headers, and some shorter rear gears like 4:11s, otherwise it'll be a dog from a dead stop. Now if you're not willing to do that then I'd run a smaller cam like a Tick Street Heat, Stage 1(ls2) cam, or Crane 1449111 (224/228 114lsa +4, lift .590"/.590").
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...r-ls2-engines/
http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...oducts_id=4930

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

You also wont get much, if any lope just with the cam at 232/238 @ 115. If it was on a 111 you'd get more mid range and lope your after. And your header/exhaust combo will make it even quieter. I had a similar setup with 1-7/8 LT's going to stock Z28 catback with a cutout, in a LQ4 and 234/242 on 114. With the cutout closed it sounded mostly stock. You'll have to tune some lope into it right now. If it were me I'd go 231 HUC/237 LSL on 111 +2 and mill the heads a little more, then pickup a cutout and some cheap F body longtubes as you might need to cut them to fit. Side note, can I call shotgun on the Z06 cam when you pull it out? Ive been looking for one for months now.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

The goal is to eventually run a turbo some day, and I don't want to back myself into a corner by milling heads or using flat top pistons; compression will stay where it is for now. Also, due to fitment I'm very happy with the CTS-V manifolds, so those will stay as well - no sense in building longtubes if I'm just bolting on a set of truck manifolds upside down in a few years. Gears are also a good match since I do a lot of highway cruising. Looks like I'm better off changing my cam choice to match the current setup.

BTW - I am running an LQ4, so using an LS2 cam is a no go for me. I already made that mistake once...the cam must have the cam sensor machined portion at the back end of the cam, which the LS2 does not.

I should have specified - I am actually running a QTP cutout after the BMW cats. I don't mind it being quiet with cutout closed since I daily this thing in the warm months. See above about my thoughts on milling and longtubes. I'd love them, but just not sensible.

Recommend a good cam/spring/pushrod setup for me and I'll give you dibs on the cam

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

I was thinking something like this.

http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/

See video at the bottom of the page. The guy is running a very similar setup to me - LQ4, LS6 intake. Only difference is that I have milled 317s rather than ported 243s, so I have less compression than him (I think).

robznob11

I don't know why you think it wont lope much? I just put a z+221 cam in my lq4 wich is only a hair larger than a z06 cam but on a 114 and everyone who hears it thinks it alot bigger than it is. Youtube z+221 to hear it. I do believe there is some good advice here tho. Im thinking you dont need anything larger than 228/230 with .598 ishs lift because the car is heavy and you dont want to loose the mid torque. The cam you posted is going over into top end power mor suited for light car. I would also say get deep gears,a converter(small) and pushrods. Deff new springs aswell.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Looks like the Street Heat 2 specs are 231/238 | .61x”/.58x” | LSA113+3.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

what compression are you at? im guessing around 10.5:1? im currently running a 232/238 .599/.601 on stock compression/317 heads with a 113+1 lsa. theres a slight lobe that's noticeable and the car weighs around 3650 with me and it runs low 12s from 111-114 pending DA. if you search on youtube under my username you should find a couple of my idle vids.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

^^ Yes, about 10.4:1 given my milling on the 317s. It's a 66cc chamber, but has the stock LQ4 dished pistons.

I will take a look at your setup, thanks.

fst100

iTrader: (5)

when you find my idle vid one has straight pipes thru SLP LT and the one dated after that one has a sweet thunder. im back to running an actual muffler, a walker/dynomax but no vids yet.

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

If you plan on a turbo later then I'd go 217/221 LSL on 112 or the famous triple 12 if you want boat loads of torque now. The BTR springs cant be beat for the price (just get some .650 beehives or better with tool steel retainers), along with his pushrod prices. The SLR lifters are very nice too, and only $30 more than LS7's. I'm a comp dealer and buy BTR springs, thats how cheap/good they are. I think your gear is fine, especially for a turbo later.

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

Several things to correct in this thread:

-5 degrees of overlap will produce a noticeable idle with the 232/238 115
-Any aftermarket cam marketed as an LS2 camshaft will work; it has the three bolt holes and is designed to work with LS1/2 timing sets; the cam position sensor only applies to the blocks and the front covers (which are different as the cam position did move to the front in the LS2).
-That 232/238 115 is the wrong cam for a turbo.

I would leave the stock LS6 cam in there until you are ready for a turbo. It's very hard to put together a good NA setup that will work well for a turbo. That cam would work well for a centrifugal supercharger, however. It is XE-R lobed, which I would not do for a boosted application. Go with milder lobes.

Something like what Speed Inc sells for their Turbo Stage 2 Cam with XE lobes (236/236 112.5): http://www.speedinc.com/shop-by-vehi...m-236-236.html

Or their Stage 1.5 228/228 112: http://www.speedinc.com/shop-by-vehi...m-228-228.html

Then, I'd throw Manton 11/32nd Pushrods and the PAC 1905 spring kit from BTR: http://www.briantooleyracing.com/650...retainers.html

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

I guess my views of a noticeable idle are vastly different than most. I really wish I had taken a video of that setup. With 1-7/8 LT's, ORY, to a stock axle back (with cutout closed) it sounded stock. I'm not a big fan of Ti retainers in a street car either. Unless you drive the 10K miles a year. Comp makes a nice TS retainer for beehive singles, and BTR has the lightest TS retainer for doubles.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Jake - thanks for the input.

Given that this is a summer only car, I have no problem tearing it apart during the winter to make changes. In fact, I always assume it will be in pieces at some point. That being said, there is no way I would want to run an "NA" cam and try to adapt it for turbo use. I can hang onto the LS6 cam and run the NA cam, and when it's time to go turbo, the front end comes off, making a cam swap very easy (back to LS6). I do not want to mix and match intended uses whatsoever.

I just want a fun, streetable cam that sounds great and has great gains across the whole powerband, with the emphasis on the low and mid range. (Doesn't everybody?)

After some more reading, I was thinking:

TSP 228R: 228/228 - .588/.588 112LSA
https://texas-speed.com/p-1148-texas...-camshaft.aspx

PAC 1218 springs (good to .600")
https://sdparts.com/details/pac-racing/pac1218

TSP Chromoly Pushrods (whatever length necessary after measuring)
https://texas-speed.com/p-278-texas-...-pushrods.aspx

Thoughts?

JakeFusion

iTrader: (7)

You can get the TS retainers for the PAC 1905s as well. The Titanium retainers will last as long as the springs ~20-30k miles. So I don't think that's a real concern. If you're going for longevity... well, you need to stay stock.

To the OP - the TSP 228 cam is fine. Again, realize it has XE-R lobes and those need a little more care and feeding, but make good power NA. I'd still run the PAC 1905s with either the Tool Steel or Ti Retainers for the XE-R lobes. I have the 1904s shimmed up with EPS lobes, which are an endurance profile. They are nice springs. And I'd run the BTR SLR Lifters and the Manton 11/32nd pushrod. They are extremely nice and you can get them down to the thousandth of an inch accuracy...

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Since you plan on going turbo then go for one of the Tick Turbo cams. FYI, even with the stage 1 you'll still notice it's cammed.
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/
http://www.tickperformance.com/tick-...1-ls6-engines/

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Turbo is probably 2-3 years away. I want a good streetable NA only cam now. I have my stock Z06 cam for when I want to go turbo.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

The Tick Stage 1 cam will work great as a NA cam also; take a look at the specs.

Jenson

iTrader: (32)

Just about any N/A cam you get that is good for what you want will work fine for a turbo. If it makes more power N/A, it'll make more power with the turbo. The triple 12 is a great little cam for both. Since your so far away from the turbo that's all irrelevant at this point. So get a nice N/A cam. I'd go 229/233 LSL on 111+2 if I were you and in light of this new information.

Jake, for what its worth, Ive got 58K miles on a set of 918's with TS retainers with a 228/232 XE-r. And I did 46K on a set of manley doubles...and two inners broke, it was floating the valves for about 2K miles though. It all depends on the profile too, some are more aggressive than others. If your tearing it all apart every winter, Ti all the way, as its lighter. The TS is just nice because you theoretically never need another set of retainers, an is still very light due to its strength and ability to design them very light.

LQ4-E39

iTrader: (7)

Coming from where I am now - slamming into the limiter all the time and regularly visiting over 6K on stock 134,000 mile express van retainers, with no issues...I think tool steel will be fine, even with the beefier springs.