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Bbk vs kooks headers on ls1

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Old 12-15-2013, 05:04 PM
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Default Bbk vs kooks headers on ls1

Ok so I'm starting my winter build on my 99 z28 I'm going for 450-500 hp looking for low 12 high 11 come spring. I'm trying to figure out if the extra 400+ dollars are worth it to get the kooks headrs. That money could be don't else where on my build so I continue to go back and forth. What is everyone's thought between the two,many hp gain diff??

Also eventually planning on going blown.
Old 12-15-2013, 05:19 PM
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Originally Posted by allgoodz28
Ok so I'm starting my winter build on my 99 z28 I'm going for 450-500 hp looking for low 12 high 11 come spring. I'm trying to figure out if the extra 400+ dollars are worth it to get the kooks headrs. That money could be don't else where on my build so I continue to go back and forth. What is everyone's thought between the two,many hp gain diff?? Also eventually planning on going blown.
Save the money and go with TSP 1 7/8" headers.
Old 12-15-2013, 05:24 PM
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1 7/8 I was thinking more like 1 3/4 I don't want to go to big... Where can u get the tsp?
Old 12-15-2013, 05:48 PM
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Old 12-15-2013, 07:03 PM
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Originally Posted by allgoodz28
1 7/8 I was thinking more like 1 3/4 I don't want to go to big... Where can u get the tsp?
No such thing as too big. The tests have been done. The 7/8" picks up power everywhere even on a stock engine.

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Old 12-15-2013, 07:09 PM
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I always ran Pacesetters.. Was happy with them during the time I had them.
Old 12-15-2013, 08:03 PM
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I have always ran qtp 1 3/4 but i would do the 1 7/8 like everyone else is telling u never to big
Old 12-16-2013, 07:09 AM
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do u mean 500HP at the crank or the wheels? if you are discussing wheel HP then i would say 1 7/8 Kooks, but that is just me. anyways what is the reason not to go with 1 7/8?
Old 12-16-2013, 08:33 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002kirk
do u mean 500HP at the crank or the wheels? if you are discussing wheel HP then i would say 1 7/8 Kooks, but that is just me. anyways what is the reason not to go with 1 7/8?
Im shooting for 500 to the crank so im laying down around 450rwhp is more like what im hoping for. Ive heard 1 7/8 is to big unless i go blown to much out not enough air in. Im not sure ive never built a car im just going based on asking around. But it seems here that 1 7/8 is popular.... im open to either really i dont really think i need 1 7/8 i could be wrong tho.
Old 12-16-2013, 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by dr_whigham
No such thing as too big. The tests have been done. The 7/8" picks up power everywhere even on a stock engine.

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Crap i just found the TSP they are alot cheaper for 1 7/8 even. So adding this into my options. I think that maybe the way to go. Thought on quality of TSP and all. They all are stainless steel and seem to be about the same. Cost is the big difference here. TSP and BBK are around same price KOOKS are expensive.

COST to HP i would imagine TSP or BBK would get me the same gains as KOOKS thus HP gain be cheaper?
Old 12-16-2013, 08:43 AM
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You're leaving power on the table not running the 1-7/8...

And TSP has the cheapest stainless 1-7/8 you can get. Although, if you look hard enough you can usually get Kooks on sale. I'd recommend those. They will make more power due to the merge collector design.
Old 12-16-2013, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by allgoodz28
Im shooting for 500 to the crank so im laying down around 450rwhp is more like what im hoping for. Ive heard 1 7/8 is to big unless i go blown to much out not enough air in. Im not sure ive never built a car im just going based on asking around. But it seems here that 1 7/8 is popular.... im open to either really i dont really think i need 1 7/8 i could be wrong tho.
Don't get me wrong, 1 7/8 is on the larger size for the cubes we run. For example I will be running 1 3/4 but again that is my personal preference. I should be at 400-425 at the wheels when I'm done. But I'm a mild build. And I know that I won't be going crazy in the future. If you know eventually your going to do more or add a blower maybe. I would definitely say 1 7/8 no doubt about it. Simple rule I go by for parts. Always consider the future. Just examples here. Blower, ported heads and a big cam, lots of nitrous, stuff like that would require more flow to properly put the power down. I hope I've helped.
Old 12-16-2013, 11:32 AM
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Originally Posted by JakeFusion™
You're leaving power on the table not running the 1-7/8...

And TSP has the cheapest stainless 1-7/8 you can get. Although, if you look hard enough you can usually get Kooks on sale. I'd recommend those. They will make more power due to the merge collector design.
So Kooks will make more power of the TSP? Big difference? Cost is almost 300 with the Kooks being on sale even.
Old 12-16-2013, 11:37 AM
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Originally Posted by 2002kirk
Don't get me wrong, 1 7/8 is on the larger size for the cubes we run. For example I will be running 1 3/4 but again that is my personal preference. I should be at 400-425 at the wheels when I'm done. But I'm a mild build. And I know that I won't be going crazy in the future. If you know eventually your going to do more or add a blower maybe. I would definitely say 1 7/8 no doubt about it. Simple rule I go by for parts. Always consider the future. Just examples here. Blower, ported heads and a big cam, lots of nitrous, stuff like that would require more flow to properly put the power down. I hope I've helped.
Yeah im looking to do a complete Top end kit with a big cam, then future will be swapping bottom end and adding blower for sure. Mean time i will prolly spray it in the near future but want to run all motor no adders for a little while. Now there seems to be no real cost diff between 1 3/4 to the 1 7/8 on a couple sites ive looked at. So now it just seems that its a matter of brand. Now SS is still SS but does KOOKS really make it that much better to spend the money to get them of TSP 1 7/8?
Old 12-16-2013, 01:03 PM
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Originally Posted by allgoodz28
So now it just seems that its a matter of brand. Now SS is still SS but does KOOKS really make it that much better to spend the money to get them of TSP 1 7/8?
^^^
This is in no way a true statement. All SS is not created equal. Kooks Headers and Exhaust use only 304 grade stainless steel sourced directly from the US. We also use our years of building headers and understanding exhaust science to design the best header with the best craftsmanship on the market. We have done such a good job at building headers over the years are long tubes are easily the most copied out there. The difference is we build our headers right here in the US (Not China), with US labor, and stand behind it with a lifetime warranty. If you want the best choose Kooks.
Old 12-16-2013, 02:42 PM
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Originally Posted by KOOKS Headers
^^^
This is in no way a true statement. All SS is not created equal. Kooks Headers and Exhaust use only 304 grade stainless steel sourced directly from the US. We also use our years of building headers and understanding exhaust science to design the best header with the best craftsmanship on the market. We have done such a good job at building headers over the years are long tubes are easily the most copied out there. The difference is we build our headers right here in the US (Not China), with US labor, and stand behind it with a lifetime warranty. If you want the best choose Kooks.
Let me re phrase that - 304 grade SS is still that. Kooks is not the only one using that type of metal. TSP is now im not even looking into BBK any more as i see TSP and KOOKS seem to be almost exactly the same. Cost my friend is the big thing here. Kooks are almost 350 more expensive at the cheapest place i have found them on sale. Not on sale your almost double the cost. If your only selling point is ppl copy KOOKS and Kooks are built strictly in the us by US ppl (That is AWESOME BTW thanks you) but that is not much of a selling point to scew me that way. Kooks have always been know to be the best in the industry but i have not researched TSP enough and will do more research about them. Im not arguing KOOKS is the best and i know you pay what you get for but Double? it better be damn worth the double the cost to get me to buy it.
Old 12-16-2013, 04:37 PM
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If you CALL maryland speed I will bet money they can get you within 150 of the tsp price for the headers. Again you must call because they cannot advertise the real price online. Where are you getting double? Even just searching I find kooks for 850 ahipped and tsp is 530 plus shipping so almost 600...

And yes kooks is correct 304 stainless is not always 304. QC on the place of man ufacture can vary by quite a bit. TSP makes a nice product however they have some issues with disconnecting the motor mount and steering linkages as well as the oil filter adapters to get the headers to slide up. Research that on here.

Another company to look into is American Racing. I am a bit biased here but I like AR the best. Mine literally fell into place without removing anything and the quality is top notch. I've put in several different headers... The best have been AR BBK and Kooks in that order, after that would be Pacesetter/grotoyohan and tsp.

For the record I would gladly pay the 150-200 more for AR or Kooks, the quality is the best in the business bar none and its made with American Steel. I'd rather line the pockets of workers in this country and give them a little extra cash to keep them working than having it outsourced to China.

I'm not bashing tsp because for someone where th 150 is a deal breaker then they are a great option but if you have the cash KOOKS OR ARH are the best
Old 12-16-2013, 04:44 PM
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Originally Posted by redbird555
If you CALL maryland speed I will bet money they can get you within 150 of the tsp price for the headers. Again you must call because they cannot advertise the real price online.

And yes kooks is correct 304 stainless is not always 304. QC on the place of man ufacture can vary by quite a bit. TSP makes a nice product however they have some issues with disconnecting the motor mount and steering linkages as well as the oil filter adapters to get the headers to slide up. Research that on here.

Another company to look into is American Racing. I am a bit biased here but I like AR the best. Mine literally fell into place without removing anything and the quality is top notch. I've put in several different headers... The best have been AR BBK and Kooks in that order, after that would be Pacesetter/grotoyohan and tsp.

For the record I would gladly pay the 150-200 more for AR or Kooks, the quality is the best in the business bar none and its made with American Steel. I'd rather line the pockets of workers in this country and give them a little extra cash to keep them working than having it outsourced to China.

I'm not bashing tsp because for someone where th 150 is a deal breaker then they are a great option but if you have the cash KOOKS OR ARH are the best
I will research that. Idk im not a metal guy but it seems if its the same metal it would be the same but no expert here i assume 304 SS is 304 SS. I do like the fact that they are using USA product and USA workers but man double the cost seems un reasonable to me. I will call Maryland speed to see what kinda price i can get. I would love to go kooks for a better price however im struggling justifing the extra cost.
Old 12-16-2013, 04:52 PM
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like i said man i dont see how you're getting double? are you getting a y pipe as well? and yes 304 is supposed to be 304 however take hardened steel tool from china and then a snap on one and see which one fails under axial load first lol
Old 12-16-2013, 05:04 PM
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True... Not all stainless is the same. See SLP as a prime example. They started making their catbacks out of 409SS and a lot of folks weren't happy.

At the end if the day OP, the choice is yours. I'd gladly support US Made if it was within the budget. But just bc TSP might be made overseas, doesn't mean the QA/QC stops there.

My Camaro numbers were made with TSP 1 7/8" and I loved them. Didn't have to remove the oil block off though... Not sure where that's coming from. First I've heard of it.

For the steering linkage, it's 2 15mm bolts and takes all of two minutes. It's easy. Also never had to touch a motor mount. You have to finagle them a bit, but they slide up and in easy.


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