rotella t6 in 346 5.7 ls1
01-29-2014, 07:17 PM
#2
On The Tree
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If it means anything, a lot of Subaru guys use it. I ran it in both of mine. Slightly thicker, slightly quieter valvetrain...I don't have a clue as to how it would do in an LS
01-29-2014, 07:21 PM
#3
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i ran the non synthetic oil in my ls1. had alittle higher oil pressure due to the oil weight. I did alot of research before i tried it as well. saw no ill effects and worked fine and its cheaper and has higher zink and other additives to help after cam swaps
01-31-2014, 12:48 AM
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Technically yes its a diesel oil. I was super confused when I went to buy it the first time and the guy told me it was diesel oil. Made me wonder if everyone else knew they were putting diesel oil in their cars.
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01-31-2014, 10:28 AM
#11
As I understand it, the Rotella trend was started because people wanted the additive package that was in it. While there are a few things in these additive packages, I think the most well known is Zinc. I have heard recently that new Diesel standards have oil manufacturer significantly reducing these additives in Diesel oils. So, you will likely find that Diesel oils like Rotella no longer has the additive package that people are after.
I use Pennzoil Platinum 5 or 10w-30 oil with a 1/3 of a bottle of Lucas Break-In additive in my engine. However, I do not have an emissions system to worry about damaging.
Here is a snippet from an interesting statement from Rislone:
Source: http://barsproducts.com/blog/the-str...zinc-additives
I use Pennzoil Platinum 5 or 10w-30 oil with a 1/3 of a bottle of Lucas Break-In additive in my engine. However, I do not have an emissions system to worry about damaging.
Here is a snippet from an interesting statement from Rislone:
To help understand why there is a need for this product, you need to understand how oils have changed in the past 30 years. Just think back to the SF oil that had nominal levels of zinc and phosphorus at 1500 to 1600 ppm where the current SN oil has a nominal value of 600 to 700 ppm. The reason for this drop was the negative effects phosphorus was shown to have on some emission components, like catalytic converters. Even after all these years, ZDDP is still one of the best additives to prevent wear & oxidation and inhibit rust. The Rislone ZDDP Engine Oil Supplement formulation employs advanced ZDDP technology which has shown no detrimental effects to emission control devices due to its very low volatility.
Today’s engines are designed to run with this lower level of protection, because the sliding metal parts are either designed with rollers or anti-friction coatings to prevent wear. But even today’s engines need some ZDDP to protect internal engine parts, and it continues to work well with the latest oil technology, both regular petroleum and synthetic. This does not help everyone who owns an older vehicle that needs higher levels of ZDDP, especially classic cars, or racing engines that have higher valve spring pressures or those which are not driven daily. History has shown that reducing the ZDDP package has seen increases in premature failure with flat tappet camshafts and other internal engine parts. What can be deceiving is that in many cases, this does not happen overnight, but could take months or even years. This is because the ZDDP provides a sacrificial layer that does get consumed as miles accumulate on the engine.
Today’s engines are designed to run with this lower level of protection, because the sliding metal parts are either designed with rollers or anti-friction coatings to prevent wear. But even today’s engines need some ZDDP to protect internal engine parts, and it continues to work well with the latest oil technology, both regular petroleum and synthetic. This does not help everyone who owns an older vehicle that needs higher levels of ZDDP, especially classic cars, or racing engines that have higher valve spring pressures or those which are not driven daily. History has shown that reducing the ZDDP package has seen increases in premature failure with flat tappet camshafts and other internal engine parts. What can be deceiving is that in many cases, this does not happen overnight, but could take months or even years. This is because the ZDDP provides a sacrificial layer that does get consumed as miles accumulate on the engine.
01-31-2014, 11:44 AM
#12
The reason zinc was removed from motor oils is mostly because it can damage the cat. A lot of diesel engines now have cats, so the newer CJ diesel oils also have lower levels of zinc. Still a little more than SN gasoline oil. It's enough to damage your cat, though.
Diesel oils are designed to hold particulate matter in suspension, and protect the exhaust filters and cats. Those things are not that important for gas engines. The zinc is there to protect the flat tappet cams. Oddly enough, Cummins still uses flat tappets.
Most diesel oil is either 15W-40 or 15W-50. Those viscosities are fine for a diesel; but for a gas engine, not so much.
The first number (15W) is the viscosity when cold. If your engine never sees <32*, that will be OK. But if you see temps <32*, it's much too thick, and won't lube the engine well until the oil warms up. You'll get a lot of engine wear in the first 20-30 minutes in the winter.
A more appropriate oil for a gas engine is 5W-30 or 5W-40. Use whichever viscosity it takes to maintain a good oil pressure. Thicker oil doesn't provide any real benefits, but costs you power to move it around.
Look at what a lot of new engines use - 0W-20. That's pretty thin, but works well in engines designed for it. Some race teams are experimenting with a straight 0 weight oil. Doesn't seem to be good enough for a long race. But seems to make more power for qualifying.
I use 5W-30 Royal Purple in my street/race car. I overhaul the engine every other season, and component wear is pretty minimal. I plastigauge the bearings, and they're still within specs. I could probably let it go every 3 years, but my OCD won't allow it.
Diesel oils are designed to hold particulate matter in suspension, and protect the exhaust filters and cats. Those things are not that important for gas engines. The zinc is there to protect the flat tappet cams. Oddly enough, Cummins still uses flat tappets.
Most diesel oil is either 15W-40 or 15W-50. Those viscosities are fine for a diesel; but for a gas engine, not so much.
The first number (15W) is the viscosity when cold. If your engine never sees <32*, that will be OK. But if you see temps <32*, it's much too thick, and won't lube the engine well until the oil warms up. You'll get a lot of engine wear in the first 20-30 minutes in the winter.
A more appropriate oil for a gas engine is 5W-30 or 5W-40. Use whichever viscosity it takes to maintain a good oil pressure. Thicker oil doesn't provide any real benefits, but costs you power to move it around.
Look at what a lot of new engines use - 0W-20. That's pretty thin, but works well in engines designed for it. Some race teams are experimenting with a straight 0 weight oil. Doesn't seem to be good enough for a long race. But seems to make more power for qualifying.
I use 5W-30 Royal Purple in my street/race car. I overhaul the engine every other season, and component wear is pretty minimal. I plastigauge the bearings, and they're still within specs. I could probably let it go every 3 years, but my OCD won't allow it.
