Lq4 408 storker build help
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Lq4 408 storker build help
Hey guys so Im in the process of a ls swap in my 93 z28 and I just purchased a lq4 iron block. I know I want it to be a 408 storker and was wondering what cranks would you guys recommend me as well as set ups I want this car to be street driven but also a beast on the street/strip my plans are to build it N/A and still make good power and later down the road slap a turbo on it. But turbo won't be until probably next year or so.. What C/R can I be safe running also was thinking for the top half a set of trick flow gen x cylinder heads with a fast 102 intake. Are the trick flows worth it. Or is it better just getting a set of ls3 heads..?? Also guys what pistons would you recommended as well as cam..?? This is my first real engine build and would love some help. Also im fairing new to lsx motors. so if I sound like a newbie I'm sorry My goal is around N/A is around 600hp and maybe around 800 or 900 hp with the turbo is this even possible or I'm am over my head. And would be better offer just building it for spray. Let me know what works for you guys. And my budget is around 6500-7000 for this engine
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No I want to build it one time. That's why I was asking if I'm in over my head or is it possible to build it n/a and make around 600 hp and still having the same setup just slap a turbo on it and make around 8-900
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I hate to say it, but your kind of asking to open the door and slam your head in it.....for n/a hp and street ability you will want higher compression, but for a high hp turbo setup you will want lower compression to allow for higher boost numbers.
I'd just build a great flowing lower compression engine which will cost you hp numbers now, then it will be ready for the turbo/ turbos when you slap them in, other wise you will either be swapping pistons or heads to drop your compression when it comes time to boost.
I'd just build a great flowing lower compression engine which will cost you hp numbers now, then it will be ready for the turbo/ turbos when you slap them in, other wise you will either be swapping pistons or heads to drop your compression when it comes time to boost.
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What he said plus the FAST isn't the best mani for forced induction. For that I'd get a stouter one. If you're going to build it yourself it's going to be a lot. If you have someone else do it it's going to be a whole lot more. Remember to budget a few thousand for drive train too.
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I hate to say it, but your kind of asking to open the door and slam your head in it.....for n/a hp and street ability you will want higher compression, but for a high hp turbo setup you will want lower compression to allow for higher boost numbers.
I'd just build a great flowing lower compression engine which will cost you hp numbers now, then it will be ready for the turbo/ turbos when you slap them in, other wise you will either be swapping pistons or heads to drop your compression when it comes time to boost.
I'd just build a great flowing lower compression engine which will cost you hp numbers now, then it will be ready for the turbo/ turbos when you slap them in, other wise you will either be swapping pistons or heads to drop your compression when it comes time to boost.
#9
Do yourself a favor and put your money into a GREAT bottom end by going overkill. Forged pistons, H beam rods and if you can swing it a forged crank.
different people have different opinions, but i personally prefer setting my final compression ratio with the head chamber size and going with a piston that has just a slight dish and valve reliefs. (Imho this piston shape gives you the best burn and flame travel). This is the type piston I went with but since I'm n/a I kept a small 58cc's chamber to get a super high static compression. .
For forced induction I'd still look at the same 4 cc dished piston but with something closer to a 70 cc or slightly larger chamber depending on just how much boost you plan or running.
also you can squeeze more out of pump gas if you run a good water/meth setup (snow pperformance hasa decent kit). Only down side to this is you have to keep the water/meth topped off if you tune the car with it.
different people have different opinions, but i personally prefer setting my final compression ratio with the head chamber size and going with a piston that has just a slight dish and valve reliefs. (Imho this piston shape gives you the best burn and flame travel). This is the type piston I went with but since I'm n/a I kept a small 58cc's chamber to get a super high static compression. .
For forced induction I'd still look at the same 4 cc dished piston but with something closer to a 70 cc or slightly larger chamber depending on just how much boost you plan or running.
also you can squeeze more out of pump gas if you run a good water/meth setup (snow pperformance hasa decent kit). Only down side to this is you have to keep the water/meth topped off if you tune the car with it.
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If you do end up wanting to turbocharge it later on, you can swap out the heads for either 317 GM castings or for aftermarket cylinder heads, either of which can have chambers in the 70-72cc range which would drop the compression ratio to a more boost friendly range under 10:1. How much power you make then will depend on the turbo and intercooler.
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Do yourself a favor and put your money into a GREAT bottom end by going overkill. Forged pistons, H beam rods and if you can swing it a forged crank.
different people have different opinions, but i personally prefer setting my final compression ratio with the head chamber size and going with a piston that has just a slight dish and valve reliefs. (Imho this piston shape gives you the best burn and flame travel). This is the type piston I went with but since I'm n/a I kept a small 58cc's chamber to get a super high static compression. .
For forced induction I'd still look at the same 4 cc dished piston but with something closer to a 70 cc or slightly larger chamber depending on just how much boost you plan or running.
also you can squeeze more out of pump gas if you run a good water/meth setup (snow pperformance hasa decent kit). Only down side to this is you have to keep the water/meth topped off if you tune the car with it.
different people have different opinions, but i personally prefer setting my final compression ratio with the head chamber size and going with a piston that has just a slight dish and valve reliefs. (Imho this piston shape gives you the best burn and flame travel). This is the type piston I went with but since I'm n/a I kept a small 58cc's chamber to get a super high static compression. .
For forced induction I'd still look at the same 4 cc dished piston but with something closer to a 70 cc or slightly larger chamber depending on just how much boost you plan or running.
also you can squeeze more out of pump gas if you run a good water/meth setup (snow pperformance hasa decent kit). Only down side to this is you have to keep the water/meth topped off if you tune the car with it.
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If I were you, I'd use a Callies Compstar crank and rods and Wiseco pistons with a 15cc dish (PN K445X3). Top it off with a relatively inexpensive set of ported 5.3L heads with the small combustion chambers and that would be an easy 450-500whp engine, depending on the cam, headers, etc.
If you do end up wanting to turbocharge it later on, you can swap out the heads for either 317 GM castings or for aftermarket cylinder heads, either of which can have chambers in the 70-72cc range which would drop the compression ratio to a more boost friendly range under 10:1. How much power you make then will depend on the turbo and intercooler.
If you do end up wanting to turbocharge it later on, you can swap out the heads for either 317 GM castings or for aftermarket cylinder heads, either of which can have chambers in the 70-72cc range which would drop the compression ratio to a more boost friendly range under 10:1. How much power you make then will depend on the turbo and intercooler.
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I think imma go the n/a with spray route... Because I can get more power now. Then having to wait for the turbo later. What would be a recommended set up for a n/a spraying driver not daily but like 3-4 days out of the week.. My goal is around 550 or more rwhp. Before the bottle I think. That much power should get that old f-bodie moving pretty good... All my buddies make fun of me for having such a old car since they got new 5.0 mustangs new ctsv's and gt500's. And I would love to see there faces when I beat them
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with a good cathedral head like the tfs 235/245 ,around 12:0- 12:3 scr, and a cam like a 251/259 or so, 550 rw will be no problem . heck, my setup is right there with ported 243's and a 244/248 cam. if I was to do it again , i would get a piston for a square port head and have someone like chris frank port a set of ls3 heads and with the right cam/intake make 600 rw just as easy.
maybe even check on getting a tfs/afr/prc cathedral head worked over by one of the good porters.lots of good combos to make 550+
maybe even check on getting a tfs/afr/prc cathedral head worked over by one of the good porters.lots of good combos to make 550+