Sea foamed engine and after changing oil it is black within 10 miles
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Sea foamed engine and after changing oil it is black within 10 miles
Hey guys so about a week ago I finally joined the ls family and bought a 2000 camaro z28 its been sitting in the guys drive way that I bought it from since 2008 and I was giving it a good tune up plugs wires etc. I decided to sea foam it like the post says to do on the sticky. I eventually got all the smoke out the exhaust to stop and I changed the oil n filter. And just drive it around the block and nailed it once just to see if I felt a difference and I checked the oil level again and it was black. Is this normal for Mobil 1 to get black this fast. Did I not do something right with the sea foam. Car still runs fine just the oil is black and I didn't even drive it 10 miles. What do you guys think happen. Please help me
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No it's not normal. Change the oil again. Put some cheaper conventional oil in and run it for a while. Keep flushing it until your oil stays clear for 500+ miles. You must have had a lot of sludge in there.
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Ok thanks and yeah the car does have a 150k miles on it I was just worried about blowing it up or that sea foam was still in there.. How long should I run the conventional oil for and also should I change the filter again or that is ok. And also you think I should take the oil pan off and clean it maybe that will help it or not really
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Oh Lord, the brake booster connects to the intake. Not only is pouring umcompressible liquid into a running engine a bad idea, but by pouring seafoam into the brake booster line the liquid doesn't even make it past the rear two runners. It has to work against the flow of the intake and simply because of that it's not going to make it past the rear runners. Next time use a foam and insert it from the pcv port on the left side of the neck of the intake. The smoke show that people get when pouring seafoam into their intake is nothing more than unburnt heated seafoam that is just in a semi gaseous state. It does almost no cleaning of the combustion chamber. Look into Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner or a similar foaming top end cleaner. There virtually no chance of hydro lock and it will actually expand to the crevices of the intake and runners instead of pool at the bottom of the intake and slowly evaporate and get drawn into the runners and shot out the exhaust.
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Anyways if your car is running fine afterwards then you are ok. It varies on how long you need to change your oil and filter depending on how dirty it was, if it was black pretty much right away I would change the oil now then just keep checking until its black again then change.
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Oh Lord, the brake booster connects to the intake. Not only is pouring umcompressible liquid into a running engine a bad idea, but by pouring seafoam into the brake booster line the liquid doesn't even make it past the rear two runners. It has to work against the flow of the intake and simply because of that it's not going to make it past the rear runners. Next time use a foam and insert it from the pcv port on the left side of the neck of the intake. The smoke show that people get when pouring seafoam into their intake is nothing more than unburnt heated seafoam that is just in a semi gaseous state. It does almost no cleaning of the combustion chamber. Look into Mopar Combustion Chamber Cleaner or a similar foaming top end cleaner. There virtually no chance of hydro lock and it will actually expand to the crevices of the intake and runners instead of pool at the bottom of the intake and slowly evaporate and get drawn into the runners and shot out the exhaust.
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I think that's what he means... some say you shouldn't do it some say its fine. I haven't done it to my Ls1 but I did it on my truck and everything went fine. There was a video on youtube that some guy tests seafoam and shows that the carbon buildup was reduced after doing it but he used a different method witch I think is a little safer, he used a seafoam bottle that had a special nozzle that slips right into the intake plumbing and he doesn't choke the car out with the seafoam.
Anyways if your car is running fine afterwards then you are ok. It varies on how long you need to change your oil and filter depending on how dirty it was, if it was black pretty much right away I would change the oil now then just keep checking until its black again then change.
Anyways if your car is running fine afterwards then you are ok. It varies on how long you need to change your oil and filter depending on how dirty it was, if it was black pretty much right away I would change the oil now then just keep checking until its black again then change.
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Damn I honestly probably will never use it again or any other product this **** is scary I was very fiffy about putting it in the first place and kinda kicking my self in the *** that I did. But all the post I read about it said it was good. Anyway do you think my motor is ok I'll change oil again in it probably tomorrow to see if it gets any cleaner
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I didn't mean to scare ya with the seafoam thing. I think its perfectly fine to put it in with the oil (for a short amount of time) and in the gas tank. At least there you dont have to worry about it compressing in relatively huge quantities at all.
As stated above I think your engine just had a little bit of extra crud in there and the seafoam in the oil just loosened it up real good. Just keep changing the oil and filter with cheap oil until you notice its not changing colors as quickly.
As stated above I think your engine just had a little bit of extra crud in there and the seafoam in the oil just loosened it up real good. Just keep changing the oil and filter with cheap oil until you notice its not changing colors as quickly.
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I didn't mean to scare ya with the seafoam thing. I think its perfectly fine to put it in with the oil (for a short amount of time) and in the gas tank. At least there you dont have to worry about it compressing in relatively huge quantities at all.
As stated above I think your engine just had a little bit of extra crud in there and the seafoam in the oil just loosened it up real good. Just keep changing the oil and filter with cheap oil until you notice its not changing colors as quickly.
As stated above I think your engine just had a little bit of extra crud in there and the seafoam in the oil just loosened it up real good. Just keep changing the oil and filter with cheap oil until you notice its not changing colors as quickly.
#13
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It's ok. And yeah I was a little scared. But like you and post said above I'll just keep changing it until I notice a difference. And cheapest oil I will rather give the extra 5 bucks at Walmart and just get a 5 quart of Mobil 1 5w-30 as peace of mind I think it's still on sale for 22.99 which isn't bad. Thanks guys really appreciate it And the car still running fine just gotta change the plugs wires fuel filter and should be all ready to go
If you want to get it all out right away.....get a can of Gunk engine cleaner fluid. Pour it in and let it idle for 5 minutes. Drain it all out. Then pour 5 qrts of very cheap oil in there and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Drain that out. Then do it one more time with cheap oil........That should have gotten all the SeaFoam out.
I have also jacked my passenger side of the car up as well as having the nose of the car heading down the driveway so when you drain it all out each time....you get almost all of it out of the oil pan. A LOT of old oil remains in that oil pan when you do an oil change if you jack the front end up to do it.
Also.....don't ever do anything but let the engine idle while flushing it with a cleaner fluid....it dilutes the oil and revving is not good like that.
Your engine is fine.....But the front 6 cylinders are just as dirty before you bought the car than they are now. The rear two cylinders are the only ones that might have gotten a little bit clean. Fluid cleaners for the top end are too heavy and get sucked through the engine and out the exhaust before they get a chance to clean anything.....
Get a FOAM cleaner.......(((SeaFoam is NOT a foam, its a liquid)))
If you cannot find MCCC.....go to a yamaha outbaord boat motor dealer and get their Yamaha Top End Cleaner...its great stuff.
THEN.....put it into the front, right side vacuum port (PCV port) while the engine is idling only. Empty the can......then right before the can runs out have a friend turn the engine off. Keep spraying the can into the line until the can is dry. The foam will expand inside the top end and clean every inside surface, everywhere. Let it sit for 3-4 hours. Then start it up and let it idle ONLY for 10 minutes. Then an EASY, mellow drive.....no hauling *** yet. Do some slow gradual accelerations up to about 70-80 mph until that acceleration is very smooth with no hesitations or missing......THEN you can do a hard run......
***Unfortunately, AFTER a member here hydralocks their engine and completely destroys it by putting SeaFoam into the brake booster line....then that Sticky will be removed.
.
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^^^^^ X 2!!! I used the Yamaha combustion chamber cleaner and it worked great!!!! Do it , whether it's mccc or yccc. Gained lost power and smoother acceleration. I'm in California and the mccc is illegal here. It is so worth it.
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If your really up for it, get yourself a scrub brush and pull the intake and get a bit of degreaser and clean each runner of the intake and do the heads as well. I just did this and while I was changing to the ls6 valley cover and went ahead and replaced the injector seals and cleaned the injectors as well.
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Yeah , it's true. I would really like to put the ls6 intake but then I have to get one with the egr provisions. I hate that crap. It's blocked off right now cause it always seems to have a vacuum leak . I got to put it back on for smog visual and just have my tuner set it to ready. The whole time I had the damn thing it never set to ready . I replaced it and it still wouldn't. Now it's blocked off (and not hooked up)and it sets to ready, but the cats won't? We'll see how it goes. I might just get the ls6 with the egr but I don't know if that is really worth it.
Last edited by celtsean; 05-29-2015 at 08:01 PM.
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If you poured SeaFoam into your crankcase....its gonna take awhile to get it all out. So black oil is what you will get. Its impossible to get all the old oil out of an engine during just one or two oil changes.
If you want to get it all out right away.....get a can of Gunk engine cleaner fluid. Pour it in and let it idle for 5 minutes. Drain it all out. Then pour 5 qrts of very cheap oil in there and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Drain that out. Then do it one more time with cheap oil........That should have gotten all the SeaFoam out.
I have also jacked my passenger side of the car up as well as having the nose of the car heading down the driveway so when you drain it all out each time....you get almost all of it out of the oil pan. A LOT of old oil remains in that oil pan when you do an oil change if you jack the front end up to do it.
Also.....don't ever do anything but let the engine idle while flushing it with a cleaner fluid....it dilutes the oil and revving is not good like that.
Your engine is fine.....But the front 6 cylinders are just as dirty before you bought the car than they are now. The rear two cylinders are the only ones that might have gotten a little bit clean. Fluid cleaners for the top end are too heavy and get sucked through the engine and out the exhaust before they get a chance to clean anything.....
Get a FOAM cleaner.......(((SeaFoam is NOT a foam, its a liquid)))
If you cannot find MCCC.....go to a yamaha outbaord boat motor dealer and get their Yamaha Top End Cleaner...its great stuff.
THEN.....put it into the front, right side vacuum port (PCV port) while the engine is idling only. Empty the can......then right before the can runs out have a friend turn the engine off. Keep spraying the can into the line until the can is dry. The foam will expand inside the top end and clean every inside surface, everywhere. Let it sit for 3-4 hours. Then start it up and let it idle ONLY for 10 minutes. Then an EASY, mellow drive.....no hauling *** yet. Do some slow gradual accelerations up to about 70-80 mph until that acceleration is very smooth with no hesitations or missing......THEN you can do a hard run......
***Unfortunately, AFTER a member here hydralocks their engine and completely destroys it by putting SeaFoam into the brake booster line....then that Sticky will be removed.
.
If you want to get it all out right away.....get a can of Gunk engine cleaner fluid. Pour it in and let it idle for 5 minutes. Drain it all out. Then pour 5 qrts of very cheap oil in there and let it run for 2-3 minutes. Drain that out. Then do it one more time with cheap oil........That should have gotten all the SeaFoam out.
I have also jacked my passenger side of the car up as well as having the nose of the car heading down the driveway so when you drain it all out each time....you get almost all of it out of the oil pan. A LOT of old oil remains in that oil pan when you do an oil change if you jack the front end up to do it.
Also.....don't ever do anything but let the engine idle while flushing it with a cleaner fluid....it dilutes the oil and revving is not good like that.
Your engine is fine.....But the front 6 cylinders are just as dirty before you bought the car than they are now. The rear two cylinders are the only ones that might have gotten a little bit clean. Fluid cleaners for the top end are too heavy and get sucked through the engine and out the exhaust before they get a chance to clean anything.....
Get a FOAM cleaner.......(((SeaFoam is NOT a foam, its a liquid)))
If you cannot find MCCC.....go to a yamaha outbaord boat motor dealer and get their Yamaha Top End Cleaner...its great stuff.
THEN.....put it into the front, right side vacuum port (PCV port) while the engine is idling only. Empty the can......then right before the can runs out have a friend turn the engine off. Keep spraying the can into the line until the can is dry. The foam will expand inside the top end and clean every inside surface, everywhere. Let it sit for 3-4 hours. Then start it up and let it idle ONLY for 10 minutes. Then an EASY, mellow drive.....no hauling *** yet. Do some slow gradual accelerations up to about 70-80 mph until that acceleration is very smooth with no hesitations or missing......THEN you can do a hard run......
***Unfortunately, AFTER a member here hydralocks their engine and completely destroys it by putting SeaFoam into the brake booster line....then that Sticky will be removed.
.
#20
Pouring Seafoam into your oil is so risky you have no idea, you'll be lucky if nothing is damaged. For certain DON"T drive it hard until you are sure ALL traces of it are out of there. Its a bearing killer!