dame

iTrader: (3)

Im going back into the motor to swap cams and i remember Nick @ ARE refering to my cam(226/234 112 .554/575) as one of there "old grinds".......well i want something else, i mean i need help picking out a cam that will REALLY LIKE IT WHEN IM ON THE BOTTLE,(even if its at the expense of N/A performance- i dont drive the car but on the weekend- if that! anyways!)

Here's where im confused

whats different about cams ground a few years ago? is it the ramp rates and things

and also since my heads were milled slightly(.030) when i sent them back to ARE to be freshened up, im worried about having P/V issues when going bigger- so what are my options, personally i was thinking something like a 229/229 on a 114 am i way off base here, or would i pick up a decent amount of power- considering that it would be a "newer grind"

In other words: someone help a guy pick a GREAT cam that isnt in a daily driver,doesnt lope as hard as my current cam, will be shifted @6500-6600 TOPS!, AND DOESNT have to be great N/A (reason being if/when im at the track, i'll be spraying)

and for point of reference- i did 540rwhp/620 rwtq on a 125 shot through my FACTORY muffler,bullet muffler(in the i-pipe),stock pulley, and a 9"


any and ALL help would greatly be appreciated

Dame

jrp

iTrader: (16)

flycut and run an FM9

kickassT/A

iTrader: (3)

nothing wrong with old school cams. check sig

dame

iTrader: (3)

withOUT having to flycut, sorry i should have made myself clear.

marc_w

To me, "old grind" means larger advertised durations... ie, slower ramps.

Slower ramped cams may not be the latest technology, but they may be what someone is looking for.

To one particular cam maker - an old grind may just be an old revision of a cam. Kind of line the MTI B1 cams. Some were ground by Lunati, some by Comp. They have slightly different specs.

Cstraub

iTrader: (1)

Old stuff is just the new stuff of today.. . in a different box. Inverted ramps and "launcher" lobes are almost 30 years old. . .actually they are 30 years old. . .damn time flys. When I was but a pup these lobes were dominating NHRA classes. Latest and greatest come and go. . . well matched combinations run good for years.

Chris
"Non Guru", just lucky to make fast parts for fast cars.

dug

iTrader: (10)

Springs were the limiting factor a few years ago. Back then most of the dual springs required machining of the heads to fit which mean removing the heads. pita if you only wanted to do a cam swap with stock heads. Now that dual springs that dont require machining are available, cams with aggressive lobes have become more popular.

The old skool cams still work good with stock heads. They leave some power on the table but can be dirt cheap. A used old skool cam can be had for $200 and new 918's cost around $160. For less than $400 and if you do the work yourself, its possible to add 40rwhp.

dame

iTrader: (3)

thanks for not giving me a one sentence answer- i understand better now.


now all i need is some suggestions on a nicer cam, and if my thoughts of a 229/229 114 is really worth it or not

FASTONE

If you are more interested in a good N.o. cam the 114 LDA is good but you need to add more duration to the exhaust side to help get rid of the added exhaust.N.O. is liquid oxygen,so you can use less duration on the intake.About 10 degrees difference should work good say 230in .240ex could go 8 degrees???Cams will always be changing but basically its the same basics designs that work.The best cam is the one that is designed for what you are going to do with it .Degreeing the cam in relation to the crank can be just about as important as the cam itself,really!!Good luck!

dug

iTrader: (10)

MMS stage 2 blower cam, 226/232 .578 .578 115ls is probably the cam you want. This will give you the smooth idle and the 115 lsa should work good with nitrous and your restrictive exhaust. Good luck finding it since MMS went out of business awhile ago. You can always copy it and do something similar. Theres a dynograph listed somewhere by Terry Burger. He had it for sale awhile ago.

If youre lookin to hustle people with a smooth idling cam the 115 lsa will do it. Maybe even go higher like 116 or 117. THat would definitily be too much n/a but nitrous might like it. The ls6 engine responds well to nitrous and it has 116 lsa. Maybe thats a good angle to use. The only way to know for sure is testing.

dame

iTrader: (3)

oh yeah, i have intentions on putting a cutout on the car, for when im at the track (no need to choke up the car: AT THE TRACK)

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Most of the cams you are looking at are not very different from what you have now. You put down 540 rwhp on a 125 shot through a moser 9". What more do you expect? Unless there is some other issue with the cam, save your money and jet-up.

dug

iTrader: (10)

I agree. I think hes lookin for a stealthy idle that makes the same power on spray.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

Hmmm... not a daily driver but wants a better idle. How much better? Also thinks he can gain more power. I don't see that really happening. An XER 224/230 114 would idle better but not be stealthy. It would be fine for a 150 shot, but it probably would not make any more power.

dame

iTrader: (3)

well i just figured i was leaving something on the table with the 112 lsa, so i figured: a little bit bigger on the intake(229-230) and put it on a 114 and i'd get some more power out of it, (a better idle would have ONLY been a PLUS-not really NECESSARY!) but if u guys dont think so.......... ok ........... anymore EDUCATED opinions.....thx again guys.


Dame

GrannySShifting

iTrader: (10)

228/234 .600/.580 113+4 for nitrous or a 111 stright up or a degree or two adv for the motor, with a little slower exhaust lobe then the previous.

Dunno I just pulled those numbers out of my ****