4RE ETR

Mike Norris has suggested I go with a 224/228 113LSA with 580 to 590 lift. He suggested maybe even a square 228/228. He claimed the idle will be 90% of stock with tuning, be very reliable, pass emissions and give a solid increase in HP which is exactly what I am looking for. The lift isn't too crazy either so the springs shouldn't be breaking all the time. He's going to use the 918 springs. Any thoughts on this? FYI it's a cam only swap, no heads on an LS6

J.

<small>[ April 01, 2003, 11:37 AM: Message edited by: 4RE ETR ]</small>

niphilli

IMHO the lift is overkill for stock heads, and I would definately worry about the 918's with a .590 lift. If it were me and I was going with that much lift I would use a double spring.

Tin Indian

228/228 ... Pass Emissions ! <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" />

Good Luck ...

SSLink

That cam should make great power, even with your stock LS6 heads. Power band is going to move up quite a bit IMHO, especially if you go with the 228 intake duration. I would stick with the 224/228 or even a 224/224 -112 if I had the choice. With stock Z06 first gear ratio you should be just OK in the low-end grunt department. Then again I am an off-idle torque fiend, as evidenced by my cam choice. Passing emissions is relative to where you live. In California it may be touch-and-go.

The only thing I find curious is the idle "90 percent of stock" comment. Again, IMHO it's going to be very apparent you're cammed with a 228-113 in there. Idle speed will have to be bumped to about 900 RPM and you will still have some obvious lope, even through cats. To have a close to stock idle you need average duration <or= 220 and/or LSA >or= 114, even with fast ramps.

All that being said, I'm sure Mr. Norris knows his stuff and is fixing you up with a strong performer. Good luck!

Go get 'em boys. <img border="0" alt="[USA]" title="" src="graemlins/patriot.gif" />

<small>[ April 01, 2003, 12:05 PM: Message edited by: SSLink ]</small>

SSLink

With your stock LS6 heads and gearing I would get the TR 224-112 or a similar Comp grind. If you want a smoother idle at the expense of a little midrange torque, get the TR 224-114. Lift at .561 will be fine with the 918's. You will make some serious power with little to no compromise in driveability. For more low-end grunt and an even smoother idle get the TR 220. You'll only sacrifice a little on top, IMHO.

The tendency is always to overcam a street car. A strip car is another matter. Just my $.02.

Give 'em all quarters so they can call home from Baghdad! <img border="0" alt="[USA]" title="" src="graemlins/patriot.gif" />

4RE ETR

Can someone explain the benefits of the asymmetrical cam? I guess for what I want a lift of around .560 should be adequate and safe?
Also, will the LSA of 113 be a decent compromise for idle quality and power between the 112 and 114? Cams are not my strong point as you can tell.
Thanks a ton!
J.

niphilli

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 4RE ETR:
<strong> Can someone explain the benefits of the asymmetrical cam? I guess for what I want a lift of around .560 should be adequate and safe?
Also, will the LSA of 113 be a decent compromise for idle quality and power between the 112 and 114? Cams are not my strong point as you can tell.
Thanks a ton!
J. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">There are not really given benefits of a symmetrical cam. those numbers (224/224) refer to the duration or amount of time that the valve stays open. If your car is evenly balanced on the amount of air it can take in, and the amount of air it can force out then the symmetrical profile is the optimal one. If your car has a restriction in the intake department and flows well in the exhaust department then you will need more duration in the intake number to make up for restriction.

For the most part all types (normal split, symmetrical split, and reverse split) have been working well with the LS-1/6. These motors are just beasts. There is a pretty commonly accepted theory going around these days that a normal split (more exhaust dur than intake dur) may be the best for the LS-1. The new LG G5-X2 is an example, and the little .525 lift Hotcam is also an example.

As far as LSA, it will not affect your peak numbers. a tighter LSA (112) will just show peak numbers earlier in the RPM range while a broader LSA (114) will show peak numbers at a higher RPM. 112 LSA does have a fairly lumpy idle in an aggressive spec. cam so 113 may be a good choice. And I think you are dead on with the .56x lift number and stock heads. Assuming that you have a manual (LS-6) you will probably be fine with a 112 if you do not mind a lumpy idle. Sope people like it that way <img border="0" title="" alt="[Smile]" src="gr_stretch.gif" /> .

Hope this helps <img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

4RE ETR

That helps a ton! Would a reasonable duration be 224/224 or 224/228 with the LSA of 113 and lift of .56x? Maybe that cam would be the best choice or maybe best guess

I also have a manual trans and MIke is planning on doing LS1edit so if tuning is necessary for best results it's in the budget.

J.

<small>[ April 01, 2003, 09:14 PM: Message edited by: 4RE ETR ]</small>

Cal

iTrader: (1)

4RE, here's the cam for you:

Comp Cams XR275HR

222/224 .566/.568 112 LSA

Brand new cam just out from Comp

Check it out:
http://www.compcams.com/information/...003/Page-3.pdf

I8COBRA

iTrader: (56)

Your cam will NOT sound 90% stock, unless he jacks your idle up to 1K rpm.

I'm running a 222/222 .560 114+2

Running through the stock SLP dual/dual catback it sounds 90% stock, you really have to know cars to hear the cam. With the cutout open the cam is noticable.

I would really recommend this cam, makes AWESOME power and I kept my stock driveability.

SSLink

Whoops, forgot sig. And ditto what niphilli said about the valvesprings. Over .570 or so lift you're going to want a double spring setup for peace of mind. Otherwise you're going to have to change your springs out every year or 10K miles to be safe IMHO. <img border="0" title="" alt="[Roll Eyes]" src="images/icons/rolleyes.gif" />

4RE ETR

Well, knowing what I want what cam would you suggest? Mike said it's the typical cam he puts in a head and cam car. Maybe he is being a bit too aggressive since he's never swapped just a cam in an LS6. I also have longtubes on the car now. ULtimate power is not my goal. Decent idle quality, reliability and noticeable power are though.

Thanks a ton for the reponses.

J.

CHRISPY

My 230/230 112LSA cam passed emissions with tuning.

Also My power peak is 6300rpm not too high at all.

I think that cam will work great, if you are concerned about peaking too high grind a couple degrees advance into it.

Good luck,

Chris

ps- 918's with the blue stripe will handle that lift no problem. You will want to check your springs yearly though and never hammer the car cold.

<img border="0" alt="[cheers]" title="" src="graemlins/gr_cheers.gif" />

Cal

iTrader: (1)

</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by 4RE ETR:
<strong> Well, knowing what I want what cam would you suggest? Mike said it's the typical cam he puts in a head and cam car. Maybe he is being a bit too aggressive since he's never swapped just a cam in an LS6. I also have longtubes on the car now. ULtimate power is not my goal. Decent idle quality, reliability and noticeable power are though.

Thanks a ton for the reponses.

J. </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">For what you want I think you should get a TR220 114. JMHO . . . to each his own.

Cal

iTrader: (1)

I8COBRA, I know your C1 is a custom grind because your LSA is 114. But did you also get the lobes with less lift, because normally a C1 has a .566 lift.

4RE ETR

Cal, how would the idle be with the 112LSA? Mike did say my idle would be bumped up to around 950 rpm's. He also said this would help the idle and accessories since I am doing an UD pulley. MAybe I can get the LSA changed to 113 or 114 if it would make a significant difference in idle quality.

I8COBRA, I like the cam specs but am concerned about the LSA at 114. Does the LSA affect power or just where the power is? If it only moves the powerband up a bit I can live with that. Tons of grunt down low is too hard on tires anyway and I can barely hook as it is.

This is an awesome board with some real knowledge and real world experience! I wish I'd have found it sooner. Thanks!

J.

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 06:41 AM: Message edited by: 4RE ETR ]</small>

Mike Norris

iTrader: (10)

Hey Joe and All,

The cam is an XE lobe grind and would be a 224/228 .568/.571 113LSA or a 228/228 .571/.571 114LSA. I use the 224/228 in my Z06 HC packages that pass emissions and most likely what I will go with. Just wanted to clarify the lift question more than anything here. It will be a bit lopey but the idle will be at 950 or so and with LS1 Edit it should be "fairly" smooth but noticeable for sure.

I like niphilli's explanation on the cams numbers, basic and to the point and Chris is right with his comment on the 918's with the blue stripe.

Later All.

Mike

4RE ETR

Whoops! I misquoted the lift amount in the first post. Sorry.

J.

Brian98

I just put in that new comp cam 222/224 566/568 112lsa in my C5...if you have questions about it just ask,,,,,(it fits my set-up great......huge power difference) <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Eek!]" src="gr_eek2.gif" /> <img border="0" title="" alt="[Big Grin]" src="gr_grin.gif" />

4RE ETR

Brian check your email...