1/2" Impact Wrench & Crank Pulley
#1
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1/2" Impact Wrench & Crank Pulley
I know this a controversial topic, there seems to be people on both sides of the fence, but I've been thinking about my upcoming crank pulley install, and I was thinking about doing it this way:
--Get the pulley on about 1/2" to 3/4" with a longer crank bolt.
--Install the pulley all the way down with old crank bolt
--Install new bolt and torque it to 37 lb/ft
--Make a mark on the top of the bolt head at 12 o'clock
--Use 1/2" impact wrench to tighten the bolt 140* using the mark you made as a reference
Would this work-out okay you think? What difference does it make if you use a torque wrench or an impact wrench to move the bolt 140*?
Thanks.
--Get the pulley on about 1/2" to 3/4" with a longer crank bolt.
--Install the pulley all the way down with old crank bolt
--Install new bolt and torque it to 37 lb/ft
--Make a mark on the top of the bolt head at 12 o'clock
--Use 1/2" impact wrench to tighten the bolt 140* using the mark you made as a reference
Would this work-out okay you think? What difference does it make if you use a torque wrench or an impact wrench to move the bolt 140*?
Thanks.
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I'm not sure if it makes a difference, honestly...
I used a 4' breaker, and only got around 120* or so for both of my cam swaps. I was almost hanging off the bar.
I used a 4' breaker, and only got around 120* or so for both of my cam swaps. I was almost hanging off the bar.
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I hear people saying that you should never use an impact wrench installing a pulley, and it makes sense if someone is just pulling the trigger until the bolt stops turning, but it seems if you are aware of how much you are cranking the bolt (140* for example), then the argument that you should never use an impact wrench seems to be false. As far as ruining bearings with an impact, I'm not sure what that's all about.
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2xLS1, I meant longer bolt as in your install tool. Wrong terminology since your tool is a stud, nut and washers.
I see, an "even stretch" meaning that an impact might distort the bolt?
I'll just follow your instructions, but I had this thought that if you knew how far you were turning the bolt with an impact, then it wouldn't be problematic.
Anyway, thanks.
I see, an "even stretch" meaning that an impact might distort the bolt?
I'll just follow your instructions, but I had this thought that if you knew how far you were turning the bolt with an impact, then it wouldn't be problematic.
Anyway, thanks.
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#8
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I'm curious about this too. Getting ready to pull my ASP pulley off to put a cam in and I used loctite on it when I installed it. Was wondering if using an impact wrench to remove the bolt will hurt anything. I see a few people talking about damaging bearings, but don't see anyone explaining why. Any thoughts on this 2xLS1?
#9
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The only bearing I could maybe see it effecting would be the main bearing that has the thrust surface. (thrust bearing) I think it #3 in an LS1, but don't quote me on that. That is why you do not want to hammer a pulley on a crank. Paul at thunder is the one who mentioned an impact damaging the bearings. Maybe he will see this and elaborate more. I've just seen too many damaged crank thread threads for me to ever use an impact to tighten the crank bolt. I will use an impact to remove the bolt though. Another thing is that there are so many different impact wrenches out there. I have 2 different 1/2" drive impacts. One does good to remove a lug nut that was torqued to 100 ft lbs, and my other one will crush a crush collar when setting up gears.
#10
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Impact tools to install items are corner cutters and will eventually cost you in some way, shape or form. Just not worth it. Plus, are those wanting to use this method that starved for time and the proper tools to do it by hand that they must use the impact to expedite the process at the risk of damage?
If it's too good to be true, it probably is.
Air tools are great to speed up the time it takes to get a fastener near snug and then using a proper TQ wrench to hit the final torque is a great way to expedite a process.
However, where TTY bolts, and sensitive areas that involved bearings etc are involved, it's always best to do it by hand w/out pneumatic devices. Better safe than sorry.
If it's too good to be true, it probably is.
Air tools are great to speed up the time it takes to get a fastener near snug and then using a proper TQ wrench to hit the final torque is a great way to expedite a process.
However, where TTY bolts, and sensitive areas that involved bearings etc are involved, it's always best to do it by hand w/out pneumatic devices. Better safe than sorry.
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Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
Impact tools to install items are corner cutters and will eventually cost you in some way, shape or form. Just not worth it. Plus, are those wanting to use this method that starved for time and the proper tools to do it by hand that they must use the impact to expedite the process at the risk of damage?
If it's too good to be true, it probably is.
Air tools are great to speed up the time it takes to get a fastener near snug and then using a proper TQ wrench to hit the final torque is a great way to expedite a process.
However, where TTY bolts, and sensitive areas that involved bearings etc are involved, it's always best to do it by hand w/out pneumatic devices. Better safe than sorry.
If it's too good to be true, it probably is.
Air tools are great to speed up the time it takes to get a fastener near snug and then using a proper TQ wrench to hit the final torque is a great way to expedite a process.
However, where TTY bolts, and sensitive areas that involved bearings etc are involved, it's always best to do it by hand w/out pneumatic devices. Better safe than sorry.
#13
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I couldn't get mine to 140* using a 3 foot cheater on a 2 foot breaker bar. The engine kept taking up the extra oomph it seemed by wanting to turn. Even with the parking break on and the transmission in 5th. A lot of people say they can't do it and the pulley doesn't fall off. I tried removing it a few months ago to change out the crank seal and it didn't budge using the same cheater bar method. That 140* passed 35 ft. lbs. is a joke some GM engineer is playing on all of us.
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2xLS1, it's an M6. I used the impact gun to get the pulley bolt off. When I tried with a breaker bar and a piece of pipe, the engine kept turning, in 4th gear too. I've been using a 1/2" breaker bar with an impact 24mm socket. I have a 3/4" breaker bar but no 24mm socket that will fit. Maybe I should just get a 3/4" 24mm socket.
I was home when the mail guy came but he never rang the doorbell, and I didn't hear a knock, but he just put a "missed delivery" slip in the mailbox. I called and they're gonna re-deliver tomorrow. That will be okay because it's raining today, and I work on my car in the driveway.
Thanks.
I was home when the mail guy came but he never rang the doorbell, and I didn't hear a knock, but he just put a "missed delivery" slip in the mailbox. I called and they're gonna re-deliver tomorrow. That will be okay because it's raining today, and I work on my car in the driveway.
Thanks.
#15
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When I use my flywheel locking tool on A4 cars, I can get it to 140* without the crank budging a bit. I can usually get it to 140* on M6 cars in 6th gear with the brake on, but the crank will try and move a little. And back to the original question at the top, I use a blark sharpie felt tip pen to mark the bolt head and pulley so I know when to stop.
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Predator, if it turns out to be a high-priority to use your car between now and then - I have a longer crank bolt and washers here, 20 minutes down the highway.