Well, I officially HATE my car....
11-01-2004, 12:38 PM
#1
Well, I officially HATE my car.... Here is the Deal, well, first i ordered a top of the line, luniti pro 395 stroker kit, full roller 1.75 ratio comp roller rockers, a custom comp cam with over 600 lift and around 240 durration, comp r lifters, new block, ls6 intake, aluminum flywheel, hardened push rods, as well as a bunch of other stuff and paid up front for everything, well for some reason the place i ordered the stroker kit thru "i got everything else in a couple days" took over 2 and a half months to get the stoker kit in and it still didnt come in. so we went a different route and i got a callies stroker crank, luniti custom nitrous pistons, and a rod called ARROW ?? which i guess is a really super high end rod with arp bolts from europe.... well anyways, i start building the motor and am finding all kinds of holdups, one being a could worn rev valves that i didnt see before, brand new speedpro bearings that where bad, one comp cam roller rocker being the completely wrong rocker arm?????? and then hitting the top of my valve cover..... well all that fixed and the motor is in the car, i went to start it last night and no go.... ?? it cranks easily , but wont start, it just backfires here and there and it is definatly getting gas, so i thought maybe a bad crank trigger but it is good, as well a bad cam sensor, but both are good, and all the wiring and grounds are correct.. the only thing left would be cam are crank timing on the timing chain right?
i wasnt paying attention when the guy at the shop was degreeing in the cam, i was doing something else on the motor, so, im not 100% sure of that being correct.... i really dont feel like tearing down the stupid front of this motor unless i really have to..
has anyone else had this problem? if the crank is 180 off, then ill tear it down, but if its something else i would like to know, ohh yah when i set up my full adjustable rockers to the comp r lifters i kept rotating the block and turned all the bolts to 0 lash, then did a half turn to set preload then tightened them.. is that right? maybe i went to far down for the lifters and the valves arent closing making the car not start??? any comments would be greatly appriciated.. thanks, ps i have no complaints of where i got the parts from. they have been very nice and the problem of the parts have not been there fault, it was the manufactures fault..
i wasnt paying attention when the guy at the shop was degreeing in the cam, i was doing something else on the motor, so, im not 100% sure of that being correct.... i really dont feel like tearing down the stupid front of this motor unless i really have to..
has anyone else had this problem? if the crank is 180 off, then ill tear it down, but if its something else i would like to know, ohh yah when i set up my full adjustable rockers to the comp r lifters i kept rotating the block and turned all the bolts to 0 lash, then did a half turn to set preload then tightened them.. is that right? maybe i went to far down for the lifters and the valves arent closing making the car not start??? any comments would be greatly appriciated.. thanks, ps i have no complaints of where i got the parts from. they have been very nice and the problem of the parts have not been there fault, it was the manufactures fault..
11-01-2004, 01:27 PM
#2
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I've had lots of problems with Callies reluctor ring setups. Had 2 that were bent beyond repair, one that flat fell off, and others that had way too much runout. Did you check the runout on the crank reluctor wheel before you installed it?
BTW - It's due to the packaging that causes this damage, not directly Callies fault.
BTW - It's due to the packaging that causes this damage, not directly Callies fault.
11-01-2004, 01:32 PM
#4
Yeah the adj. rockers can be really tricky. that would be my first place I would check. When they are at TDC they should have a little play in them so that you acan tell the presure is off and the valve is closed etc. The back firing is another indication of that or atleast it can be. Good luck. Be calm you've done a lot of work just don't get in a hurry in the end.
11-01-2004, 01:39 PM
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Originally Posted by wait4me
no i never thought that of being a problem.. how would i go about checking that?
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11-01-2004, 02:43 PM
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There is another cause that could be your problem. Crank magnetivity. This is a lot more involved and would mean you need to tear down your motor, and have your crank demagnetized. That also happened to me once with a Callies. Took 3 hours on the demag machine to fix it. The car had the same symptoms though, tried to crank but it would only backfire and sputter.
11-01-2004, 04:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LOnSLO
There is another cause that could be your problem. Crank magnetivity. This is a lot more involved and would mean you need to tear down your motor, and have your crank demagnetized. That also happened to me once with a Callies. Took 3 hours on the demag machine to fix it. The car had the same symptoms though, tried to crank but it would only backfire and sputter.
Now that sounds like a pain in the ***.
11-01-2004, 08:04 PM
#10
hmm, thanks guys for the replys, i have worked on it all day today now. and still havent figured it out, i did though find that for some reason i have no compression, on a brand new everything, so i thought maybe the timing chain was on wrong, so i pulled the whole front of the car apart again and removed the timing chain and everything was lined up on the two dots, however im not even sure if this aftermarket key assembly is correct. so now my next venture is to find a stock bottom oil pump drive thing and line up the keyways and see if they are the same and im hoping that is it.. if not, maybe a faulty made cam? im not sure where to go from here.. not looking good though...
11-01-2004, 09:13 PM
#13
No compression anywhere huh? Doubtful that it is the timing assembly but a stocker as a mockup would get you a starting point. I would tend to think that your valvetrain is hanging open. I've seen that happen before. Hope it all works out for you man.
11-02-2004, 01:22 AM
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Did it run at all even for a sec? If so you may have smacked a valve, or like has been posted if you have 0 compression you have a valve(s) stuck open. Did you rotate the crank around with the front off to make sure that the dot's line back up? The best way to see if you have a valve open is to put a air hose with low pressure on that cylinder and listen to see if the air escapes. hope some of this helps and good luck.
Brandon
Brandon
11-02-2004, 08:28 AM
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Originally Posted by WS6snake-eater
Now that sounds like a pain in the ***.
His whole deal sounds like a nightmare...
I hope you get it figured out soon bud.
I would make sure at TDC #1 valves are correct, that will answer the 180* Q
The Crank maybe needing Demag is what scares me........
11-02-2004, 10:00 AM
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ANOTHER VOTE FOR VALVES HUNG OPEN....check and recheck the preload on the comp r's, This is an important step and is A LOT easier than tear down the motor and checking everything else. it will cause no compression.
11-07-2004, 05:38 PM
#19
hi guys, i figured out the problem, well, the place i had degree my cam in, set up the timing chain wrong . it had an adjustable keyway crank sproket and it was put at 94 degrees off from where it should have been, so when the lifters wernt pumped up the motor turned freely so i was unaware of anything wrong, well when the lifters pumped up when i was cranking it pumped them up and they hit hard on the eghaust valves, it broke all hardend pushrods in half, it broke the shell on the comp r lifters, it cracked the bearing assembly on the new comp roller rockers, and demolished the roller lifter retainers in the base, ...... not too good...