Interesting cam install
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Interesting cam install
Well I finally did my cam install. It wasnt that hard, of course the car is still not back together but the cam is in and everything is lined up and spinning without any problems. But there was a potential disaster avoided that I think is important to comment on. When pulling the penmagnets out be careful to pull them out easily, I had one break off inside the engine but was able to fish it out with another after an hour or so. . Also another good type in ls1howto's directions would be to have extra valve spring locks i lost a few and had to wait on them.
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Tr230 cam, I had to drive all over town to get the magnets because the places would have like 5 or 2 or 3, if i was going to do it over i would use the rod trick, plus the magnets are not cheap and you pretty much ruin them anyway. Just need to wait until friday to button it up had to go to work today or would already be done, stupid work. Cant wait to hear it.
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Originally Posted by LSmokin1
when i did mine, i used 5/16" metal rod. To me its alot easier that buying 16 pen magnets. But congrats on the install. What cam you put in?
Bill
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Originally Posted by Bill Bowling
I am planning on doing a cam install. Where did you get the pin magnets? I have heard of this a couple of time. Did you have to buy the locks from a GM dealer? I think I have just aabout everything but have not picked up any yet.
Bill
Bill
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The rods keep them from falling b/c they block the lifters from falling back down onto the cam lobe. While the lifters are held in the trays, you slide the rods in to prevent them from falling out of the trays.
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Originally Posted by luv2spd
The rods keep them from falling b/c they block the lifters from falling back down onto the cam lobe. While the lifters are held in the trays, you slide the rods in to prevent them from falling out of the trays.
Thanks,
Bill
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I got mine at home depot. Just get 5/16 inch rods. When I got mine i had to buy two rods and then cut them to length b/c one rod wasn't long enough for both. Do determine how long they need to be, just measure your cam and add a little bit more. I didn't even bother bending them to make a handle. I ended up having like 1 1/2" sticking out when they were all the way in. You will probably also have to grind a flat spot the whole length of the rod. This, along with grinding the tip to a bullet shape allowed them to slide in very easily.
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I had a potential disaster with my recent cam install. WHen compressing the valvesprings (the very last 2 I might add), I was using the TDC method, but the piston wasnt up all the way, so the valvestem dropped flush with the seat and I couldnt get it out! I was scared shitless, so I had my friend turn the crank over counterclockwise....except that was the wrong way and the valve dropped even FURTHER! it was a good 1/2" into the head..we turned the crank the other way and got the piston to push the valve up far enough that I could grab onto the valvestem and pull it up.
#13
I just finished my install for the most part. I am waiting on a spring tool then I will be done. I thought it was kind of a pain in the butt. Alot more than I thought. But I did the oil pump as well and complete new chain, along with LT's and UD pulley. The only scary part for me was getting to the bolt on the bottom of the oil pump. That was a nail bitter. The other hard part for me was the stinking valve covers. But all is well. I guess I got lucky with the lifters. I left the pushrods in place, spun the cam, then tested the tention with the push rods. I pulled the cam out and stabbed the new one in. No sweat. I hope to fire it up tonight.
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Lifter tool discussion:
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabrication/235106-camshaft-installation-tool.html
Your rods probably shouldn't be much more than 18 inches long (before the bend) because it will become difficult to slide them in in front of the condensor.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/tools-fabrication/235106-camshaft-installation-tool.html
Your rods probably shouldn't be much more than 18 inches long (before the bend) because it will become difficult to slide them in in front of the condensor.
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Originally Posted by RaNsOm
I had a potential disaster with my recent cam install. WHen compressing the valvesprings (the very last 2 I might add), I was using the TDC method, but the piston wasnt up all the way, so the valvestem dropped flush with the seat and I couldnt get it out! I was scared shitless, so I had my friend turn the crank over counterclockwise....except that was the wrong way and the valve dropped even FURTHER! it was a good 1/2" into the head..we turned the crank the other way and got the piston to push the valve up far enough that I could grab onto the valvestem and pull it up.
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Originally Posted by Black Z/28
I used a 6 or 8 inch length of small diameter rubber tube inside the spark plug hole. When I turned the engine over (with a wrench of course), the tubbing was compressed to the point where I could feel it tighten up inside the cylinder. I could easily feel TDC (or very close to it). Of course, once at TDC, this meant the coresponding cylinder on the other side was ready to go as well so you only have to pull 4 plugs. Just pick the easiest 4 which means you don't have to pull #6 or 8. (I got the idea from a fellow board member).
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go buy 5/16" rod at local hardware store...grind a bullet end on one end of each rod and a slightly flat spot on both....cut the rods 3 inches longer than the cam itself...and voila', you have a lifter tool...at half the cost of the damn pen magnet trash