Camshaft installation tool
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From: Junction City, Kansas
Camshaft installation tool Does anyone know where to get a set of camshaft installation tools similiar to the ones on Thunder Racing.com? Or how to make them?
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From: Las Vegas, NV
I foolishly went for the JPR cam install tool, but it didn't work for me. I could only get one of them in, so I got 16 pen magnets and that worked great. From my experience, if I was going to do it over again, I would have just gotten the pen magnets in the first place. Some fellas have had luck with making their own tool, and some have even had success with the JPR tool (it only seems to work on certain model years), but the pen magnet method is simple, and a sure thing. JMO.
Good luck man!
Good luck man!
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Hartsdale, NY
I don't know much about this since the tool (rods) came out after I did my mods. Since I was changing to ported heads, it did not matter for me.
I assume the rods (tools) go into the block so they hold up the lifters. Does it help if the cam/motor is rotated while the rods are being inserted? It seems weird that the tool would work on some year cars and not others.
Just a thought?
I may have to replace the cam to stock again if the mutts at the NY inspection station keep making the smog test more diffucult in my county - retoractively for older cars. (I would hate to rip the heads off again and am leary about magnets.) Westchester NY did this test change last year for older cars and I had a bad time getting through with a very mild cam.
Lots use the magnets but a friend used these and had trouble. More than one magnet would not release from the lifter after the cam swap.
I assume the rods (tools) go into the block so they hold up the lifters. Does it help if the cam/motor is rotated while the rods are being inserted? It seems weird that the tool would work on some year cars and not others.
Just a thought?
I may have to replace the cam to stock again if the mutts at the NY inspection station keep making the smog test more diffucult in my county - retoractively for older cars. (I would hate to rip the heads off again and am leary about magnets.) Westchester NY did this test change last year for older cars and I had a bad time getting through with a very mild cam.
Lots use the magnets but a friend used these and had trouble. More than one magnet would not release from the lifter after the cam swap.
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Yes, the rods go into the block. I pretty much tried everything, with no luck, to get the rods to go in.
That's a new one to me about not being able to remove the magnets. I know that some people have had the magnets come off, but if you test it first it shouldn't be a problem. The pen magnets I bought were really cheap, about 2 bucks a piece, and they were in a bucket at the checkout counter with various other trinkets, like key chains.
From what I've read here, it seems that people have had better luck with fabricated rods rather than the JPR tool, but if I was going to do another cam install, I would DEFINITELY use pen magnets, without hesitation.
That's a new one to me about not being able to remove the magnets. I know that some people have had the magnets come off, but if you test it first it shouldn't be a problem. The pen magnets I bought were really cheap, about 2 bucks a piece, and they were in a bucket at the checkout counter with various other trinkets, like key chains.
From what I've read here, it seems that people have had better luck with fabricated rods rather than the JPR tool, but if I was going to do another cam install, I would DEFINITELY use pen magnets, without hesitation.
Originally Posted by robertbartsch
Lots use the magnets but a friend used these and had trouble. More than one magnet would not release from the lifter after the cam swap.
I dont see why anyone would use anything other than the magnets.
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Do you have to use something to hold the lifters up?
I saw a cam install in one magazine that just spun the camshaft over by hand a couple turns and they said that there was something in the block that held the lifters up.
I saw a cam install in one magazine that just spun the camshaft over by hand a couple turns and they said that there was something in the block that held the lifters up.
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Originally Posted by my01camaroz28
Can you give me a write up on how you did it?
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: west coast
[QUOTE=Black Z/28]I just used these tonight:
5/16 inch rod for the driver side, 3/8 inch wrapped in velcro for the passenger side. Both slid right in (I have an '02). Nor did I have to grind a flat spot.
I don't see the need for a flat spot either. Can't I just use a 5/16 rod for both sides? Are the right and left side different? This is my first cam swap in a LS1 and I'm trying to get everything ready. And what is the velcro for?
Thanks
5/16 inch rod for the driver side, 3/8 inch wrapped in velcro for the passenger side. Both slid right in (I have an '02). Nor did I have to grind a flat spot.
I don't see the need for a flat spot either. Can't I just use a 5/16 rod for both sides? Are the right and left side different? This is my first cam swap in a LS1 and I'm trying to get everything ready. And what is the velcro for?
Thanks
[QUOTE=WS6 RULES] I read several threads where people swear that the standard 5/16 rods would not fit. So I did the grinding thing. They did fit loosely, but they worked so I am happy. The JPR rods have a flat spot from what I've heard?
Originally Posted by Black Z/28
I just used these tonight:
5/16 inch rod for the driver side, 3/8 inch wrapped in velcro for the passenger side. Both slid right in (I have an '02). Nor did I have to grind a flat spot.
I don't see the need for a flat spot either. Can't I just use a 5/16 rod for both sides? Are the right and left side different? This is my first cam swap in a LS1 and I'm trying to get everything ready. And what is the velcro for?
Thanks
5/16 inch rod for the driver side, 3/8 inch wrapped in velcro for the passenger side. Both slid right in (I have an '02). Nor did I have to grind a flat spot.
I don't see the need for a flat spot either. Can't I just use a 5/16 rod for both sides? Are the right and left side different? This is my first cam swap in a LS1 and I'm trying to get everything ready. And what is the velcro for?
Thanks
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Northern Va
[QUOTE=WS6 RULES] CORRECTION! Sorry, it's 3/16 and 5/16. You wrap the 3/16 with velcro. Wrapping the 3/16 with velcro brings the diameter back up (and then some). Since the passenger side can be a little snug, use the velcro to create a 'flexible' version of the 5/16 size. It will easily conform to any tight space but overall it will stay at 5/16. I supposed you could use the velcro version on both sides but the 5/16 fit beautifully on the driver side (for me anyway).
Originally Posted by Black Z/28
I just used these tonight:
5/16 inch rod for the driver side, 3/8 inch wrapped in velcro for the passenger side. Both slid right in (I have an '02). Nor did I have to grind a flat spot.
I don't see the need for a flat spot either. Can't I just use a 5/16 rod for both sides? Are the right and left side different? This is my first cam swap in a LS1 and I'm trying to get everything ready. And what is the velcro for?
Thanks
5/16 inch rod for the driver side, 3/8 inch wrapped in velcro for the passenger side. Both slid right in (I have an '02). Nor did I have to grind a flat spot.
I don't see the need for a flat spot either. Can't I just use a 5/16 rod for both sides? Are the right and left side different? This is my first cam swap in a LS1 and I'm trying to get everything ready. And what is the velcro for?
Thanks
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Atlanta, GA
Yeah me and my freind did a cam swap on an 02 trans am and a 00 trans am and the JPR cam tool would only go into one side. We had to shave it down a ggod bit to get it to work. The driver side goes in fine but the passenger side doesn't want to go in very easy. I say make your own if you can. I paid $90.00 for a tool then have to modify it to work thats crap.
I used 5/16" rod with a flat spot grinded on both of them. Went in very easy. Much better than spending money on the tool. I used the money towards the crane valvespring compressor. I think the valvespring tool was def. worth the price.
I just put a cam in using the 5/16" rod trick with one rod ground down like the others said. Worked fine for me too. I did notice though after pulling the rods out and pushing the lifters back down with the pushrods, they were pretty snug in their little plastic holders. I could have done it without the rods, but it does give a little extra insurance that the lifters will stay up.
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From: Northern Va
Originally Posted by HavATampa
... I did notice though after pulling the rods out and pushing the lifters back down with the pushrods, they were pretty snug in their little plastic holders. I could have done it without the rods...
Damn, I bought the cam install tool from thunder racing and it worked great. The rods slid right in. I never thought about making them. You just screw 2 long water pump bolts in the end of the cam and give a few quick spins to push the lifters up and slide the rods right in.
