mad618

I bought a 98 ta in early dec. then 5 days later the oil pump went out and spun a bearing. I'm planning on buying a used engine(can't afford anything else)and have a question. If I was to get a newer 99-02 engine and got the wire harness and pcm with it would it be a plug in and go swap, or would I have to change some things. I'm just asking because I know the egr and other things on the newer engines are different. any info would be greatly appreciated.

git_sum

iTrader: (10)

Just take the egr and air off, to my knowledge everything else would work.

777

iTrader: (21)

a forged shortblock from hpe will run you 2600...you could take off your heads and put in a $400 dollar cam and end up with a reliable 375+rwhp motor..i don't know how much used ls1's cost but this is an option...and a very strong one at that...

mad618

thanks for the info, I'll keep that in mind

Another_User

No. Many sensors work differently, like coolant, and fuel, and a few others. And you may need a later model gauge cluster. The swap is not impossible from what I have heard...just a PITA.

Christos

Lingenfelter also has a nice shortblock for $2095.

http://lingenfelter.com/ls1shortblock.asp

Dustin 98TA

You can rebuild what you have for a lot cheaper, then you can buy some mods with the money saved.

Nate_Taufer

iTrader: (1)

yup 98 sending unit is 0-80 ohms and i believe the 99+ are 40-230 ohms or somewhere around there. The temp sending unit is a 2 wire as opposed to a three wire on the 98 (no biggie) and the guage cluster's fuel gauge won't work properly so you have to swap guages.

There are a few other things i missed but i will remember them and post as i go. I was gonna do this swap but decided against it.

Nate

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

if i were you, i would get any LS1 shortblock (or longblock) but reuse the 98s wiring and sensors.
if you get the later heads, you'll have to mount the coil packs diffrently (i think) but everything should still be made to work pretty easily..
i would ditch the AIR and EGR during the swap, if possible.

tye698

i know how you feel man...bout a 01 ss conv. and blew it up in 2 weeks...stupid stupid stupid..now im walking with my wife and 3 kids tell the guy im buying a block from pulls it out

94form2000z

iTrader: (10)

Seems like you guys would've bought an extended warranty with your vehicle I know I do with all used vehicles. Especially a performance based one. That's some shitty luck man. The 98's are known for having shitty oil pumps in them. Good luck to ya.

mad618

Thanks for the tips and info, I think I'll stick with a 98 engine, less crap to deal with. I asked the dealership about the extended warranty and they looked it up in their book and said they couldn't even offer me one on a 98. I'm not looking to do a big hp buildup on this car, so I'm just going to try and get a used engine with less miles. That way all I have to do is swap a few accessories and whatnot and be done with it. I just want to get it back running as quickly and easily as possible.

mad618

After I bought the car I was looking through the owner manual and found that the previous owner wrote down all the repairs that had been done to the car. Apparently the pistons and rings were replaced 16k miles before I bought it. Makes me wonder if I could get away with just replacing the crank and bearings and leaving the top end alone?

CaptUSA

iTrader: (5)

Wow, that's horrible. Sorry to hear it buddy. Good luck on the rebuild!!



I assume you called the guy you bought it from?? What did he say?

Mike98WS6

iTrader: (5)

It sounds like this particular engine has had some trouble in the past. That blows. I would just get a nice short block for it.

texasuperman

iTrader: (1)

that sucks man my 98 blew up to a little bit after i bought it I am putting a new ls1 in it. pm me if you have any questions

1999T/A

iTrader: (4)

I had mine 3 months before a lifter blew up . Cost me $3300 for a nice performance build . I would do that before shelling out 2 grand or more for another GM stocker . . .

Richiec77

iTrader: (3)

Price a re-build and then look at Lingenfelter short block and decide. Sounds like you're straped for cash. If I was near you I'd help you put it in to save some cash. Maybe someone else on this board might help you out.

TigerFan187

iTrader: (1)

That sounds so similar its scary. About 5-6 weeks ago I got the n20 kit installed on my 4.8 and the 2nd time I sprayed it I bent a pushrod so I replaced the springs,pushords,and cam. 2 weeks later I got my updated tune for the cam and 10 miles after I put the updated PCM in I killed a piston,head damage,and all that other bad stuff that comes with it. Oh and I wasnt spraying either. So I put a LS1(9k miles on it) in that I got a good deal on and 4 days later I start to get a God aweful knocking coming from the bottom end. We were sure it was rod related probably a spun bearing. This is great I couldnt beleive the luck I was having. We get the motor out and it ended up being that somehow a piece of metal was on got top of two of the pistons and scarred them up and eventually went out the tailpipe and the sharp edges from the scars were hitting the heads and banging like a bitch. Either when I originally blew the 4.8 that the ground strap from the sprak plug that got blown along with the piston got stuck in the heads and finally came out. I find that hard to believe since the heads were sent to have work done on them. Im thinking it was done at the machine shop and some shavings got stuck in the heads and caused it. Its all better now but that put a hurtin on the wallet bad!