Lt1caprice

iTrader: (3)

I have a cracked 2000 ls1 engine. I do not want to go big bore, i just merely want to go back to a stock 3.9" bore. I was wondering if it is possible to dry sleeve back to stock. I can get a sleeve the right size, and i have sleeved engines several times before. As far as dropping a sleeve goes, i was going to counterbore it to lock it in place. I noticed la sleeve offers an ls1 sleeve in stock bore and big bore. Does anybody know if the stock bore one is a dry sleeve just to replace the old

I know sleeving has been gone over several times, but I could not really find any information on sleeving stock bore.

Last question is does anybody know how thick the original sleeves are (not including the ribs)?? I would like to bore out and leave a little bit of stock sleeve to push the new one into.

Thanks for any help ahead of time.----

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

Sure can.

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

If the crack extends into the aluminum under neath the sleeve, forget dry sleeving the block. It will however be a good candidate for MID sleeves. If however the sleeve alone is cracked and the aluminum is intact it can indeed be saved.

The flange on the stock sleeve is .160" thick so the outside diameter would be ~ 4.220". The flange extends down about .350" although it tapers down to the body diameter at .350". The sleeve body itself is right around .090" thick at the outside of the ribs. Therefore you need a sleeve with a body diameter at least 4.080" so the block bore cleans up.

What you need to fix this block if it is indeed repairable, is a flanged repair sleeve. Darton part number 300-024 is made for the LS1. The body diameter is 4.180" with a flange diameter of 4.320". The body diameter is actually larger than you need leaving you a finished wall thickness of ~ .140". This sleeve will work fine however as long as the parent aluminum is not cracked. You can try and seal the cracked alumimum with sealer but in my opinion it's not worth the expense and hassle screwing with it.

Steve

Lt1caprice

iTrader: (3)

thanks for the responses guys. It is cracked through the aluminum i assume. Has anybody had any luck with repairing this and not doing the MID's?? Any info is appreciated. Also, anyone know the price on that darton sleeve 300-024?? Thanks again

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

Like steve said earlier if the crack doent go all the way down into the main web your good. ANYTHING can be fixed- you just have to decide if its worth fixing or not. I have seen some stuff be repaired that I would think would never be so dont throw it away until you investigate it. PM me if you can.

Slow Z28

iTrader: (19)

i know this may seem off the wall, but in that situation, maybe you could look for a used block and have it cleaned up and honed to a 3.905 bore and then put your block off to the side for maybe that 427 build later in the future? just use the other internals. just a suggestion since you are looking for stock bore. price wise i don't know how they would compare though

Steve - Race Eng

iTrader: (1)

The 300-024 sells for $58.80 through Darton. You can call John at 760-603-9895 and he will get one out to you if you want to try and fix it.

Steve

Lt1caprice

iTrader: (3)

Thanks guys---If i understand right, as long as the crack does not proceed out of the aluminum around the cylinder wall into the main web, then it would be worth the $60.00 to try and fix this. I guess i will order the sleeve so i can get a good measurement off of it, then bore out the old one and see how far the crack goes. When i do get to the crack(granted it does go down to the main), is there something i should do to it before pressing the new sleeve in?? Thanks alot guys---BR

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

If the crack is longer than you would like it to be take it to a welding shop that is known to be really good at TIGin aluminum and have em cut out the crack and weld it up, be sure to have the mains and torque plates torqued down so that the block doesnt pull out of shape. Be sure to get a .0025" or so interference fit on the sleeve and youll be good.

Lt1caprice

iTrader: (3)

hope i am not asking too many questions, i just want to make sure i get this done correctly. Do you think that the crack would ever spread further than it is right now?? Right now it is in the middle of the cylinder wall, and probably 2" long going up and down. if you dont think it would spread, i will probably just leave it, and put the sleeve in with a good interference and some sleeve compund---Thnaks again guys.--especially bo and steve

Bo White

iTrader: (59)

Find the VERY end of the crack on both ends and drill a 1/8" hole or so in both ends to take the stress riser out of the crack so it will not go any further and use adhesive when you install the sleeve because of the holes being drilled into the water jacket.

Lt1caprice

iTrader: (3)

thanks alot BO. this is the process i will use unless i find that the crack goes down to the webbing. I will keep you posted, and try to share some pictures of the crack with you---thanks---this forum is great